Aux Lighting Help (Wiring)

[OFC Ranger]

Sorry don't mean to double post, but did not get much traffic in the lighting section.

I have draw a diagram and was wondering if any of our inclined folks here could point out any errors.

The switch box is a self contained unit (circuit fuses, 1 power, 1 ground, 4 acc) minus relays.

I believe I have the diagram correct, so using a trigger fuse (empty slot) in the factory fuse box, the switch box and aux lights will only be juiced once the vehicle is started. I believe I also properly ran an inline fuse from the battery.

My only hold up is if I need to insert a relay with each single aux light, or is the one relay pictures correct? Thank you for any feedback.

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[Big Blue]

Sorry don't mean to double post, but did not get much traffic in the lighting section.

I have draw a diagram and was wondering if any of our inclined folks here could point out any errors.

The switch box is a self contained unit (circuit fuses, 1 power, 1 ground, 4 acc) minus relays.

I believe I have the diagram correct, so using a trigger fuse (empty slot) in the factory fuse box, the switch box and aux lights will only be juiced once the vehicle is started. I believe I also properly ran an inline fuse from the battery.

My only hold up is if I need to insert a relay with each single aux light, or is the one relay pictures correct? Thank you for any feedback.

Being a mechanical designer with limited electrical experience, I maybe be way off and will probably be corrected. My main concerns are the sizing of the red wiring, the fuse and relay to handle the current and any future lighting load. My second concern is the need to have the switches sized to control the entire load they are controlling.

 

[P. A. Schilke]

Sorry don't mean to double post, but did not get much traffic in the lighting section.

I have draw a diagram and was wondering if any of our inclined folks here could point out any errors.

The switch box is a self contained unit (circuit fuses, 1 power, 1 ground, 4 acc) minus relays.

I believe I have the diagram correct, so using a trigger fuse (empty slot) in the factory fuse box, the switch box and aux lights will only be juiced once the vehicle is started. I believe I also properly ran an inline fuse from the battery.

My only hold up is if I need to insert a relay with each single aux light, or is the one relay pictures correct? Thank you for any feedback.

Hi Jack,

Ok...you are using the relay to make the switch box hot, correct? That should work. What I would recommend is that you ensure your current draw through each switch is below the rating for each switch.... Wiring looks good....

Best,
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retired

 

[geophb]

I would do dual relays (one for each acc1 and acc2). Then the relay takes most of the work and the switch use just enough to fire the relay (200ish mA to fire relay vs 10 amp light draw).

Your system, the relay looks to be used to create switched power source. If you used the dual relay method you can pull switched power from an existing source because of the low draw to fire the relays.

That said, your system would work as long as the switch can handle the light draw as mentioned by @P. A. Schilke already.

 

[OFC Ranger]

Sorry left out some details on the switchbox the switches are rated for 20 amp each and circuit for 40 amp. Each smaller pod draws 2 amps each in the medium light bar draws about 4 amps.

so basically 4 amp each acc line in use

 

[geophb]

Sorry left out some details on the switchbox the switches are rated for 20 amp each and circuit for 40 amp. Each smaller pod draws 2 amps each in the medium light bar draws about 4 amps.

so basically 4 amp each acc line in use

20" led bar only pulling 48 watt?? You sure?
Aren't they normally about 120 watt or so?

 

[OFC Ranger]

20" led bar only pulling 48 watt?? You sure?
Aren't they normally about 120 watt or so?

Well yes the manufacturer claims 120 However cheaper bars from Amazon are Notorious for being rated at a much lower power nearly half maybe more but the system will be set up as if the power advertisements are accurate

 

[P. A. Schilke]

Well yes the manufacturer claims 120 However cheaper bars from Amazon are Notorious for being rated at a much lower power nearly half maybe more but the system will be set up as if the power advertisements are accurate

Hi Folks,

Just to reiterate....Power in Watts is Volts times Amps. This should help you with current by just dividing Power in Watts by 12V. You could use 13.5V but 12V gives you a bit of margin, eh? Maybe everyone here on the forums know this and I am redundant....

Best,
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retired

 

[Jfleming]

From what is shown and described, I would say it should work fine.

If you want to be extra cautious you could add fuses on the outputs of the switch box that are sized to be a few amps higher than the actual measured amp draw from each load. (ACC-1 and ACC-2)

Then the fuse shown from the battery to the relay should be properly sized as well.

This assumes you have an amp function on your meter to do this. If not I suppose you could just go with calculated values.

In the end make sure no fuse is a higher amp rating than the wire size used can handle without burning the truck to the ground in the case of a short.

 

[geophb]

@OFC Ranger
Can your switch box do both switches (acc1,acc2) at same time, to have all the lights on? Another relay could control that if not. More light the better!

 

[AzScorpion]

@OFC Ranger
Can your switch box do both switches (acc1,acc2) at same time, to have all the lights on? Another relay could control that if not. More light the better!

This made me think of Sids Ranger. lol.

Seriously I would go on @Msfitoy build and ask him because he's the king of lighting on here! He wired everything himself and with all those lights nothings melted (yet) so I would get his advise.

 

[Figarou]

@OFC Ranger
Can your switch box do both switches (acc1,acc2) at same time, to have all the lights on? Another relay could control that if not. More light the better!

Just one extra pair is good enough for me.

More lights means more switches.

I'll be like........





?

 

[OFC Ranger]

@OFC Ranger
Can your switch box do both switches (acc1,acc2) at same time, to have all the lights on? Another relay could control that if not. More light the better!

I could always rig a 3 way to another available switch. I currently only going to be using 2 of 4. My plans are to add some reverse and bed lights with remaining switches next month

 

[geophb]

I could always rig a 3 way to another available switch. I currently only going to be using 2 of 4. My plans are to add some reverse and bed lights with remaining switches next month

So you cant turn both acc1 and acc2 at the same time or????

 

[OFC Ranger]

So you cant turn both acc1 and acc2 at the same time or????

im sorry misunderstood yes i can run multiple switches;

- no 1 switch exceeds 20 amp
- the circuit board (box) does not exceed 40amp

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