V_dude
Member
- First Name
- Sam
- Joined
- Dec 15, 2021
- Threads
- 3
- Messages
- 15
- Reaction score
- 2
- Location
- Saudi Arabia
- Vehicle(s)
- Ranger XLT2.2 2022
- Thread starter
- #1
Hi everyone,
I got access to welding workshop, for those that know my case, I found a way to make some of my US Ranger part to fit on my Austrialian made Ford Ranger, i.e. the rear lift block, I just reduced the size of the pin on top from by 1 mm around and turned it from 14mm to a 12mm and the hole of the bottom just added a 1mm 14OD 12ID pipe. So I am worndering if I can play with some parts. My old man has a broken down SUV that been setting there for more than a year doing nothing which can be my expermental rat.
but before I get started, I got a lot of question, so please excuse me if I am newbie in mechanic, but God bless, the more I learn about the mechanic the more addictive it is getting (I should have went for being a grease monkey after school)
here are the questions:
1- A- Steering knuckle: I know it is attached to lower arm control, upper arm control, and thin shaft in the front of the drive axle (I think it runs to the steering gear) and a rod connected to another shaft behind the drive axle (I think it is steering related as well), and a bunch of holes for wires to run through it, (PX has two holes near the UCA resting hole), the knuckle clearly acts as the wheel turning point and supports the arms which are the bouncing point of the car. if I wanted to turn these knuckles to a lift knuckle, is just making the attaching points for the UCA and LCA go up farther? or is there more to it?
B- if I extend all of fixing points of the steering knuckle to the other components, except for the wheel hub, inwards(make the fixing points extend towards the car) will that make the wheel extend outwards, like the wheel would be more sticking out? (taking into account extending the drive axcle as well)
2-A- Shocks: is it possible to cut off the rod and extend it if I plan to lift the truck (i.e. if I plan to lift 10" I add 10" of rod welding) ? or does the shock needs to be able to be fully compress to the added length? (or close to it) ?
B- can I make some sort of extender?( like making an shock-like eye with two securing points for the factory shock, a home-made shock eye (to attach to the truck) inches away (lift inches) attached to a semi clyndrical channel (that fits the shock width) with a bolt passing through it and a clamp on it, so that the factory shock can rest in channel while the bolt goes through the shock's eye and the clamp further down securing the shock to the extender.
3- A- Coilover, Is it possible to change a coilover ends (securing point), like if I find a coilover of the same width with desired lift but for another type of car, can I change there connections and get away with it? (I am aware that 1" lift for one car doesn't neccessary means the same for another car)
B- Can I add an Extender (mentioned in Question 2-B) to the bottom part of the coilover and use it as a link between the lower control arm and the coilover to push the car upwards?
4- the crossmember, the front one is attached to the lower control arm and support the engine and front car. if I mount it (the factory crossmember) on a home-made crossmember and attach the lower control arm to to the crossmember, will that push the car upwards putting pressure on the coil spring and therefore making the lower control arm pointing downwards toward the wheel side giving it more front ground clearance?
thank you for assisting me
I got access to welding workshop, for those that know my case, I found a way to make some of my US Ranger part to fit on my Austrialian made Ford Ranger, i.e. the rear lift block, I just reduced the size of the pin on top from by 1 mm around and turned it from 14mm to a 12mm and the hole of the bottom just added a 1mm 14OD 12ID pipe. So I am worndering if I can play with some parts. My old man has a broken down SUV that been setting there for more than a year doing nothing which can be my expermental rat.
but before I get started, I got a lot of question, so please excuse me if I am newbie in mechanic, but God bless, the more I learn about the mechanic the more addictive it is getting (I should have went for being a grease monkey after school)
here are the questions:
1- A- Steering knuckle: I know it is attached to lower arm control, upper arm control, and thin shaft in the front of the drive axle (I think it runs to the steering gear) and a rod connected to another shaft behind the drive axle (I think it is steering related as well), and a bunch of holes for wires to run through it, (PX has two holes near the UCA resting hole), the knuckle clearly acts as the wheel turning point and supports the arms which are the bouncing point of the car. if I wanted to turn these knuckles to a lift knuckle, is just making the attaching points for the UCA and LCA go up farther? or is there more to it?
B- if I extend all of fixing points of the steering knuckle to the other components, except for the wheel hub, inwards(make the fixing points extend towards the car) will that make the wheel extend outwards, like the wheel would be more sticking out? (taking into account extending the drive axcle as well)
2-A- Shocks: is it possible to cut off the rod and extend it if I plan to lift the truck (i.e. if I plan to lift 10" I add 10" of rod welding) ? or does the shock needs to be able to be fully compress to the added length? (or close to it) ?
B- can I make some sort of extender?( like making an shock-like eye with two securing points for the factory shock, a home-made shock eye (to attach to the truck) inches away (lift inches) attached to a semi clyndrical channel (that fits the shock width) with a bolt passing through it and a clamp on it, so that the factory shock can rest in channel while the bolt goes through the shock's eye and the clamp further down securing the shock to the extender.
3- A- Coilover, Is it possible to change a coilover ends (securing point), like if I find a coilover of the same width with desired lift but for another type of car, can I change there connections and get away with it? (I am aware that 1" lift for one car doesn't neccessary means the same for another car)
B- Can I add an Extender (mentioned in Question 2-B) to the bottom part of the coilover and use it as a link between the lower control arm and the coilover to push the car upwards?
4- the crossmember, the front one is attached to the lower control arm and support the engine and front car. if I mount it (the factory crossmember) on a home-made crossmember and attach the lower control arm to to the crossmember, will that push the car upwards putting pressure on the coil spring and therefore making the lower control arm pointing downwards toward the wheel side giving it more front ground clearance?
thank you for assisting me
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