2016 ford ranger wildtrak 3.2L manual px2 won’t turn off

[Franko6688]

Recently did a cab swap as my cab got damaged and now my car won’t turn off unless I disconnect the battery or hit the bjb with a little bit of force

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[airline tech]

I think I would start with checking the PCM Power Relay and the Run Start Relay - for sticking, define cab replacement (meaning) whole cab was removed and all associated wiring was disturbed in the IPC and dash?
Do you have a - High End Scan Tool? that can read the relay circuit and the Ignition Switch Signals? Looking for ISP-R - Ignition Switch Position - Run or ignition Switch Status.
It may also have a code locked in.
I think you either have a short in the ISP-R circuit or a sticking relay which is keeping the relay energized and its not getting the controlled shutdown sequence or request, there has been one noted (same issue) where the BJB was internally shorted and the ISP-R circuit was constantly powered any other noted dash messages or faults while driving?
If what I am picturing is correct - all the cab wiring was removed and reinstalled , may be pinched somewhere

 

[Grandaccess]

It will when it runs out of gas?
How many miles to Empty are you?

 

[Franko6688]

I think I would start with checking the PCM Power Relay and the Run Start Relay - for sticking, define cab replacement (meaning) whole cab was removed and all associated wiring was disturbed in the IPC and dash?
Do you have a - High End Scan Tool? that can read the relay circuit and the Ignition Switch Signals? Looking for ISP-R - Ignition Switch Position - Run or ignition Switch Status.
It may also have a code locked in.
I think you either have a short in the ISP-R circuit or a sticking relay which is keeping the relay energized and its not getting the controlled shutdown sequence or request, there has been one noted (same issue) where the BJB was internally shorted and the ISP-R circuit was constantly powered any other noted dash messages or faults while driving?
If what I am picturing is correct - all the cab wiring was removed and reinstalled , may be pinched somewhere

ive check the relays and done what you have stated to try and it hasn’t change the situation. I don’t have a high end scan tool at the moment but I am ordering one

and yes I transfer the whole interior loom from my cab to the new one and put the new cab on my chassis

there is a couple lights on. The abs and advance trac from what I remember also 4h 4L isn’t working as well as rear diff lock and downhill descent

car will shut off by turning the key within the first 5 seconds of starting but after that it will not

 

[Cmar]

As you have the same 3.2 diesel as me, a couple of questions, was the new cab from a manual or an auto? I know you have said you transferred over the looms from the old cab. Did you bring over all the cab electronics from the old cab? Old skool diesels used to shut off by a solenoid cutting off fuel supply to the pump. Modern diesels kill power to the ECU injection as these diesels use piezo electric injectors where an applied current changes the shape of the crystal for a split second lifting the needle and allowing injection. There may be a difference between auto and manual if the cab was different. As Airline tech has said above it could be something as simple as a pinched or shorted wire, easy enough to do when changing a cab on chassis.

 

[Franko6688]

As you have the same 3.2 diesel as me, a couple of questions, was the new cab from a manual or an auto? I know you have said you transferred over the looms from the old cab. Did you bring over all the cab electronics from the old cab? Old skool diesels used to shut off by a solenoid cutting off fuel supply to the pump. Modern diesels kill power to the ECU injection as these diesels use piezo electric injectors where an applied current changes the shape of the crystal for a split second lifting the needle and allowing injection. There may be a difference between auto and manual if the cab was different. As Airline tech has said above it could be something as simple as a pinched or shorted wire, easy enough to do when changing a cab on chassis.

The new cab was from an auto but we swapped all the looms with the ones from my old cab

 

[airline tech]

So

The new cab was from an auto but we swapped all the looms with the ones from my old cab

So, absolutely no connection points of any kind was left in the new cab? I am asking because the pinouts may have changed.

 

[Franko6688]

So

So, absolutely no connection points of any kind was left in the new cab? I am asking because the pinouts may have changed.

No connection points were left in the new cab swapped the interior loom over with the old cab as new cab ones where different as my old one was a wildtrak and the new one was just an xlt, we transferred my interior dash and all to new cab so need ed to change the whole loom

 

[Cmar]

No connection points were left in the new cab swapped the interior loom over with the old cab as new cab ones where different as my old one was a wildtrak and the new one was just an xlt, we transferred my interior dash and all to new cab so need ed to change the whole loom

Hmm, you didn't have any electrical issues with the old car before the swap? You said it was damaged, was there a chance any of the wiring damaged at the same time, you know the way Ford (and in fairness most manufacturers these days) runs wiring under the mudguards, under the floor and other out of the way places, etc as well as in the cab.
Some makers do strange things I once owned a Kia where both taillights dropped out, after trying for hours to find the issue finally gave up and took it to an auto electrician. Who did eventually find the fault. Kia it seems in their wisdom routed the tail light power to the back of the car via the rear wiper circuit and it was a bad connection in the rear wiper that was causing the problem.

 

[Franko6688]

Hmm, you didn't have any electrical issues with the old car before the swap? You said it was damaged, was there a chance any of the wiring damaged at the same time, you know the way Ford (and in fairness most manufacturers these days) runs wiring under the mudguards, under the floor and other out of the way places, etc as well as in the cab.
Some makers do strange things I once owned a Kia where both taillights dropped out, after trying for hours to find the issue finally gave up and took it to an auto electrician. Who did eventually find the fault. Kia it seems in their wisdom routed the tail light power to the back of the car via the rear wiper circuit and it was a bad connection in the rear wiper that was causing the problem.

It had no electrical damage it was fine after the damage occurred and only happened after the cab swap

but ive ran a couple of test and it seems the abs module is supplying power to keep the car running. As once it is unplugged the car will turn off perfectly fine. So I’m sourcing an abs module for the same year and model with the same part number and going to install that and plug it in and see if that fixes the problem

 

[airline tech]

although possible for a shorted ABS , i do not think thats the source, related yes but not the actual source.
What I think is happening - is the always hot power sources for the ABS module is cross shorting over to switched ignition source, i think its wiring related.
Plus also note that the ABS module must be programmed to your VIN - As-Built files - Forscan

I would also check every ground you disconnected, hopefully you took detailed notes on all disconnects as a missing ground may be forcing the ground to follow another path, thus keeping the circuit alive vs can bas seeing a shutdown request.

Disconnecting the module, may be a misleading factor, as you are taking away the ABS module ground but does not verify the module is bad, before i spent the money on a new module, I would get a wiring diagram for the 3.2 and check all wiring going to the ABS module, I have a hunch you will find a bad wire circuit.

I could be wrong here, but its my feeling - its not the ABS Module.

Also a very important PID to check is that Ignition Switch - Is it changing from run to off when the key is switched off?

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