From the research I've done I would need CVs, tie rods, knuckle and possibly some brake line brackets. I definitely have the steel knuckle, that sumbitch is heavy
It's currently at 63k but it the ball joint began clunking at least 5k miles ago, we just had a kid and I've been busy so it was on the back burner.
$350 instead of $20 is ridiculous, I won't buy OEM to replace OEM junk.
I'll start keeping an eye on junk yards for tremor knuckles, tie rods...
I just installed new lowers to get rid of some horrible ball joint noise. I do a lot of off roding so it'd be nice to put new bushings and a new ball joint into the old control arms to have backups.
A while back I spent an afternoon hammering and squeezing the absolute shit out if the ball...
I don't remember this issue. I think I swapped mine because I wanted the USB-C port but I honestly can't tell you. I have close to no issues ever. If android auto is being weird I just reset the infotainment system by holding the power and skip forward button
This is the video I referenced in preparation to remove if I went that route. I wouldn't use a metal implement like he did but it seems doable. I (like an ass) got a rush oil change before a road trip at one of those Valvoline places and they broke every clip getting the fender liner off. Some...
Again, not really concerned with the threaded tie down points. But as it stands, I will plan on removing the caps and taping off the bed rails just past where the caps cover
I do have the tap for those threads already just in case, but I have eye hooks in all of them currently.
I'm more worried about the rail cap not fitting back on correctly
Ordered a clear bed liner and a tan tint to compliment the blue (didn't want black soaking up summer heat)
I am wondering if it's best to pop off the bed rail caps and spray under them, or if that is going to cause issues getting them reinstalled.
Any input?
Thanks
Those batteries supposedly last 10 years and once they die they are dead and shouldn't be causing intermittent issues. Plus both rear tires take turns having an issue
I did try this but it didn't immediately fix the issue. We were on a 5 hour drive and after the issue happened for the 3rd time I unplugged the cable for the rear camera from the front camera and left it for about 20 minutes which did not make any difference for the TPMS error
Ran a rear dash cam wire below the body of the bed then up through the floor under the rear seat. I threw a string with a weight on it over the rear passenger wheel well liner and fished the camera line up and over. Wondering if it is causing interference with either the sensors or the antennas...
Yes I would say from my experience with these fuse taps you wont yours reversed. These fuse boxes are a real pain in the ass having the fuses so recessed, they often only fit one way. I ended up grabbing THESE (thinking they were micro to micro) which ended up being micro to... mega. Clipped off...
I have multiple devices to power so I didn't opt for the rear view mirror connector. This camera also requires a constant power source as well as a switched power source so it can tell when it is to run in parking mode and not lose power.
I have a baby monitor, radar detector and the dash cam...
Great I will check that one tomorrow. Just curious, the taps I have instruct the hot side to be the side farthest from the wire. I had noticed it seemed all of the fuses on the left had hot on the right, and fuses on the right had hot on the left. Was that what you saw?
Trying to finish installation of a new dash cam and I cannot find any fuses that are actually switched. Is everything in the passenger compartment fuse box constant power?
Thanks
2020 Lariat