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Last weekend going to and from the track for SARRC/MARRS Challenge at ViR, with roof rack and Yakima narrow basket on it, I got a little over 23MPG with Ford Performance tune. Stock suspension, wheels and tires and a tonneau cover.

If you are suggesting that somehow the bolts holding the hitch to the vehicle see any less load while using a WDH, I think you are sorely mistaken. Some bolts will see more load while others may see less, that is the nature of putting the weight on the hitch and then using a bar to connect a...

Where are you getting that the hitch is a Class III, I'm fairly sure Ford states it's a Class IV. Ford does not state that WDH is required for max towing on the Ranger, if it were a Class III that required that I'm sure they would state it somewhere. They clearly state in the towing guides that...

Yeap, the Valvomax is great, long hose on mine and I drain it right into a 5 gallon bucket at the front of the truck. On the overnight frig power, I think an auxiliary battery with a isolator would be better and prevent ever having too little power in the truck's primary battery to start it.

I agree with @airline tech, the best option would be to use the parking lights as the trigger. Would result in the lights being operational when they should be, well when they should on a vehicle that is wide enough to require them.

I guess I need to jack up my Ranger and look, I've been pulling a +6,000lb trailer 4-6 times a year since I got the truck and the last couple of years was a 2-3 hour drive with it each way. I'm really wanting to research any other differences on the EU Ranger besides the springs, Are the bolts...

I don't know if the Australian XLT Ranger has the auto-dimming mirror. But, the camera's install documentation should cover the power requirements, just need to find there your truck can safely provide that. If you don't know, may be best to have an audio install shop so the wiring for you.

I have an older Ender 3 Pro, well it was. All that is left of the E3P is the frame, stepper motors and hot bed base. Running BTT SKR Mini E3 V3.0 MCU with Klipper firmware controlled by RPi 400, Sprite Extruder Pro and BLTouch for bed leveling and mapping. I have a few beds I swap between, glass...

I think the LED use less current so splitting the ground across more than one pin was not required, while halogen use enough power that with markers/low/high all active a single ground pin would be over its rating.

I think you intended to tag me. Anyway, in this image the yellow wire is the one I added to fill the hole. it has no connection inside, just fills the hole. I know my XLT as the wiring on the chassis side to support the LED DRLs found on the Lariat trim. But, the connector on the halogen light...

I can say the Anzo have worked great so far, but I'm only about 4 months into owning/using them. Black Friday had them down to $420. Only issue was that some of the connectors were not sealed as good as they could have been, but that is an easy fix. If you look on the OE halogen headlight...

As far as I know, once that tool is paired with a vehicle it's only of use with that VIN. So, leave it in the truck.

This should grip it enough to get it: https://www.motivxtools.com/products/mx2374-us

Well, from what I've determined the ROW Rangers had about ~1000lb more payload (~100lb more at the front axle and ~900lb at the rear axle) than the NA market. I'm really thinking of looking into what all was different or if it was just the springs. Main reason I've not looking into a camper...

I saw that some of the Kenway kits included the wiring for adding to the vehicle if it didn't have a 4-pin already. I was not suggesting wiring that into the truck since the truck already has 4-pin, and 7-pin it sounds like, but instead that you could use that lead to connect directly to a 12V...

I would first confirm the lights work when manually powered at the 4-pin on the trailer, 9V battery should be enough to see that. If not, and if you have the lead for the car side, easy enough to connect to a 12V power source.

Quick way to lose about 150-160lb of payload to increased tank and fuel volume when full.

I'm guessing you mean Kenway. Being HB goods, always a good idea to test before install. But, if you have a 9V battery and a couple nails, or if your kit included the vehicle side wiring that you didn't need since the Ranger is already 4-pin ready, you should be able to test them easy enough...

I know on the Focus RS's Rear Battery Junction Box, there are rails on one side (one bank of fuses are always hot and the other bank's power is routed through a relay that is controlled by the BCM) of the fuses and if it's unused the side that would have the connector on the end of the wire for...

What kind of lights? Incandescent, LED or other? If the bulbs are replaceable in the housing, are you sure the bulbs are installed? If they are installed and also happen to be LED, have you tried flipping them 180˚? Did you bench test them before wiring them to the trailer?