I have a friend who has an XL with FX4 package, but I have sen that it has the XLT style dash cluster. These modes use the color graphics screen for doing the gauges, icons, etc. So I will go into my IPC with Forscan to see what is available, but I have a feeling some of the features need the...
There is a ceramic "tint" that blocks IR, but is completely clear. I don't know if it's actually 0%, but you literally can't tell any difference to visible light. I'm saving my pennies to put that on my windshield. Florida sun is intense.
I used to have a car with super dark tints on the...
Anybody try this with an XL yet? I have 4x4, locker, and tow package, but the XL dash doesn't have color graphics (monochrome blue). I'm willing to spring for the TM switch, but not so keen on a whole new dash cluster. Not sure if theXL display can support all the special graphics. There may...
I love your stories, and I really appreciate your contributions here. So many forums are vast wastelands of uninformed old wives' tales that are so stupid they aren't even wrong. Which can be very frustrating when you go to one looking for actual answers. Your presence here has been such a...
I totally agree. Bigger 4 cylinder engines (by which I mean >2 liters) are not smooth. This is especially noticeable at lower rpm, and in the Ranger, there's some kind of resonance at about 1200 rpm or so, and there seems to be some kind of additional resonance from the tires or something at...
Gotta keep it simple for the ladies. My wife is the same. She will press the Auto-Stop-Start button, (on her car, not the Ranger) but that's about as complicated as her pre-drive prep gets. (And honestly, I think she skips it most times until the engine actually shuts off on her...)
Stuff...
I believe it has one, but I don't know where it is. There is a knock counter in the ECU Live Data screen, but I've never tried to provoke a knock event, and as far as I remember, mine read zero.
Frequent Oil changes are always recommended...
Just don't start drilling holes in stuff to save weight. Leave that for the racer boiz.
Oh, and get rid of the front air dam. You don't need the downforce, and it just slows you down. :wink:
But what does your fuel economy look like? Can you still burn rubber? No tell-tale squeaks and creaks going over bumps? Any notable leaks? Overheating or smoking at stop signs? (OK, I'll stop, this is clearly getting out of hand...)
My vote would be for the first gear ride to be a shit bucket. Think about all those little white Rangers all the parts stores used to have. My neighbor has a 10 year old 4 row van that she uses for a private school bus. Lots of idle time, rarely if ever goes over 40 mph. And it sounds...
There are many non-linearities in wear equations. Lower rpm does not always equal lower wear, and conversely, higher rpm does not always equal higher wear. The main and rod-end bearings are hydrodynamically supported, and the slower the relative speed, the lower the film strength. The higher...
Just a quick story, only tangentially related to the subject of the thread.
I had a 1990 Yamaha with the same problem. It hydro-locked twice, but I didn't recognize what was going on. Thought I had a bad starter or some electrical problem with the wiring, switches, etc. I figured it out...
The 2.3L Ecoboost has nothing to do with the previous 2.3L I4 except having the same displacement. It is a clean sheet design. Smaller bore, longer stroke. Different engine. Designed from the beginning as a turbocharged motor.