I have done my front coilovers twice...first time the disconnect everything to get the knuckle out of the way... like the Ford shop tech manual shows...second time the disconnect lower control arm from the frame and let the coilover drop straight down....way easier and zero chance of messing up...
I agree to a certain point...there are custom fabricators doing luxury pre-runners that cost 100k"s that no OEM can touch...but they are not street legal....
No shock and leaf combination will beat a coilover and link true pre-runner set up....Back in the late 80's I had a wanna be pre-runner, that was jump capable with double shocks on all 4 corners , a custom rear leaf pack by National Springs , in bed cross supports, full roll cage, 5 point...
APG does Billet Upper control arms that are made with a taper to correctly match either steel or aluminum spindles...they are also made with on the truck adjustable Heim joint ends for fine tuning the geometry beyond what is in the design by itself .....
As to the quality of ICON shocks and...
I remember having to pry the axle forward to get the Springs pin to align properly on its perch, snugged the Ubolt nuts to keep it there then used a combination of Jack's and pry bar to get that last bolt home...I have seen a video that used a ratchet strap to pull axle up and forward to get...
I now see what you are dealing with....I think this the point that that I deviated from the ICON insructions..
I think the order in which I did the intall was rear shackle first , Ubolt to hold spring pack in place on it's perch , nuts snuggled but not tight ...I then used 2 jacks to lift the...
Not sure exactly what you are asking?
The end with the bushing already in it goes towards the front of the truck... you will need to re-use the bushing from your factory spring in the rear... torque top/front to 119 ft lbs , rear to 89 ft lbs. U-boats to 98 ft lbs.. I gave the bushings a squirt...
For the most adjustable ...from street and low speed bouncing on rocks to high speed desert racer... the 2.5 ICON CDCV Remote reservoir coilover and Piggy back rear 2.5 , with the ICON WTX Leaf spring pack, is hard to beat.....not cheap.... but worth it for me....King might have been my first...
I have done my rear shocks twice.... A little trick the 2nd time around that saved me from dropping and having to fish the top captured nut out...
I taped it in place before completely removing the shock mount bolt....One finger was all it needed to get the bolt threads aligned during the new...
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My personal experience, 7 months...
Installed as shipped, did not add or swap in the extra leaf....height after install +1.25" .... added 350 lbs. Of sand bags to bed....drove for 3 months,500 miles.....removed sand remeasured height......+ 7/8"....so, after 7 months, half that time...
I have a feeling the offroad specialty shop has figured out the easier LCA disconnect method. The Ford tech manual disconnect everything method is far more time consuming. Also it is cause of the DIY'ers having problems with over extending CV half shaft and having bearing problems...
Top shackle eye bolt 119 ft lbs. UBolts 98 ft lbs....breaker bar, 1/2" drive big, long torque wrench, and an extra jack or 2 make things alot easier...
I gave all the bushings a shot of WD 40 Dry Lube , used blue Locktite on all bolts....I have had no squeaks, or anything get loose in the 7...
It has been 1 year since I wrote the check and drove my 2021 Ranger XLT FX4 off the dealer lot...(4/2/21)....under MSRP, and paid for...following are a few pics of it now , and a list of the mods I have done so far...
Front Suspension: ICON 2.5 RR CDCV ET Coilovers, APG Billet UCA, APG Billet...
The Cooper Rugged Trek are a great choice... they are an offroad capable tire, XL rated, lighter weight (45lbs) and softer riding on the street than a LT rated tire. Also road noise is minimal, and resistance to hydroplaning is a definite plus...