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If you want to make a change without changing the battery, then change the state of charge to 90%

With the prices and insurance cost nowdays, if something happened to mine, I'd find another early 2000's Silverado and replace the engine and trans as needed. I've had enough of this Ford crap and don't need a NEW truck for status.

It charges the battery to its capacity percentage. The H7 has a higher capacity than the H6. So the BMS will look for the percentage it is set to charge to. Another words if it is set to 75% of a 600 amp battery it will charge to 450 amps. If it is set to 75% of a 700 amp battery it will charge...

If you go by the chart with sae specs a member posted, the stock driveshaft reaches critical speed at around 80mph (IIRC). I've had the Tom Woods for 35k miles. Been to triple digits more than once with stock and 33" tires. I've never felt any problems or vibrations of any kind. YMMV.

Well, you won't ship so that severely limits the customer base.

Installed a Tom Woods 35k miles ago. Just watching this thread for info.

But with Tom Woods driveshaft its one and done. Not changing bushings to try to fix what the part was supposed to fix.

Talking full size not a ranger raptor. $85k v6, $120k v8. Us dollars

I agree with what your saying, but at this point I've decided to go a different route. Might even be a RAPTOR, they have a used one for $80k waiting for them to come down

Update, this did not work out. After a 2 week wait they discovered it would be another 2-3 weeks before the manufacturer could complete and ship the order. Not wanting to wait 2-3 weeks longer I canceled the order. While amber treated me decent in texts. Real truck dropped the ball on the order...

I wouldn't do it period! It will have an affect on abs braking it will have an affect on steering and handling. It's just not a good idea. Either live with the rake or install a Leveling kit. Be safe!

Those are the ones. They are great worth the money. They give them to you free if you purchase any audio equip for you truck. And the only thing original in mine is the speaker wiring.

I bought the cable online, close to $40 shipped if I remember right. And if you purchase any upgrades for your truck from crutchfeld they will email instructions on how to take the dash apart. And they are detailed.

I also wanted to update this thread that the cable was the fix. Almost 4 months now and playing as normal.

Well, after going through it all. The cable from the usb hub to the apim was the problem child. It's half the price off the hub. I would try that first. I tried the hub first with no joy, so tried cable next and that was the fix. Good luck!

Not on the 2.5 setting. That's why I'm going to a 3.5 lift to set the 5100s back down and soften the ride. They rode great at 1.2, but when I bumped them to 2.5 they got stiff and stayed that way for 10k miles.

Well it was aimed at me, and I found it very offensive! I never tried to ditz you for buying the raptor. But when another member ditzed me, I retaliated. And would again. But since I'll never see that member or his comments again. It's all going to be okay! I hope you thoroughly enjoy your new...

How about a link for those who might need them. I personally won't as I purchased the roush r wheels that have the correct center diameter. But am sure many others will.

Sorry Todd but I can't agree with you. It's not a truck if it can't tow. And the only thing it can do better offroad is take jumps and woops which 99% of the people on here aren't interested in doing. I really like them. But if your going to discard me for liking a more capable truck, then I'm...

IM sorry but I've driven 2 ranger raptors and 1 full size. They are nice but I couldn't bring myself to purchase either. Guess the force wasn't strong enough or maybe I just couldn't justify $30-60k difference for a truck that's not that much more capable than mine. And can't tow as much. The...