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Little late to the party, but here's some tree gittin pics from the last two years:

Nice. Inspiring, even. Fixin/measuring to do something similar as we speak. Got a winch on the rear already and might be switching it up or just gonna rock 2 winches, lol.

For the rear: space down your bump stops until it quits rubbing while articulating or remove/cut fender liners/flares/wherever it rubs ...but only the latter option if you don't care about where mud goes. I've seen one person on IG (@robo_mods) go ahead and cut their fenders, as well...

OEM. However, they are not always connected.

Method 313 17x8.5", +25mm offset Cooper AT3 XLT 285/75r17

taking 4x4 trails on my way to MTB trails... life is good

I was able to turn off my low beams when high beams are on via Forscan. Its been over a year; I forget the exact parameters I changed. I do think there were some canned BCM configurations for "headlight type" or something of that nature. I vaguely remember there being different halogen...

For some lighter off-road fare, I did some camping and exploring with the family in the San Juans of Colorado: Found an easy, but stupidly scenic road that the rental Jeeps and SXS's don't seem to know about: Most of this is just training the kids for the real endgame:

75 Funny, I have a spun aluminum water tank looking for a home...

No, that's not an option with this setup. The spare is going in the bed for now, but the 285/75r17 barely cleared the brake lines, anyhow.

Since I found it kinda lame to not give more details... this is mostly how I did it: Warn VR Evo 10 (AutoZone online had the lowest price, oddly) Custom ordered 19ft, 18ft, and 1ft Powerwerx 4/0 AWG cables with lugs (4/0 about matched the voltage drop at max rated winch load of the Warn...

It does not. I did have a moment of panic after I got everything together and immediately checked that exact clearance.... as if I hadn't checked that several times before, during and after installation. LP light might have to be a bottom mount though. Good point. Edit: nah, there's room for...

Those are 7100's. I swapped the spherical bearings for rubber. The guts started with 360/80 shim stacks but they've been through a few revisions. I like them, lol. I also liked 5100's on other vehicles. I doubt you are missing much.

Maybe eventually if I'm satisfied that it works without issue. I'd hate for someone to get injured or damage their truck copying something I did incorrectly. Murphy can be a jerk. I got the idea from these raptor winch mounts so if follows a similar idea, but in a different mounting plane.

LP Flippy Thing It needs a lighted LP frame now.

I just put my rear winch on this past weekend. Mind the voltage drop running cable that long... I also like circuit breakers or fuses or at least a disconnect switch on stuff like this.

@RBMAN I grew up going too fast on Iowa gravel roads. I now encounter Colorado washboards in my Ranger. In stock form, my truck was sometimes intervening with traction control and sometimes stability control on such surfaces. I blame ecoboost and lightness, which are great things, really...

@HotShotOffroad fair @P. A. Schilke I think my theory is shit anyways... The bar stiffness will change stuff a bit, but tire stiffness is the main driver for shifting hop/tramp frequencies (I'm guessing washboards are more driven by wheel hop, but I don't know for sure)

@HotShotOffroad normally, I'd tend to disagree with the idea that adding a rear anti-roll bar would REDUCE oversteer, but for some reason I can't help but entertain this thought. Maybe one way a rear anti-roll bar would help this situation the OP mentions is if the skitteryness and "stepping...

Are you implying that increasing rear roll stiffness will reduce a tendency toward oversteer?