This is awesome! I want to do the same thing. Question: Did you have to remove the plastic liner in the wheel well at all? Or did you just jam your hand up there in between sheet metal & plastic to hold the nuts?Installed a Rotopax spare fuel tank today in the bed. Hardest part was tightening the nuts from the backside of the sheet metal. It's a reach but doable. I had to install some 3/4" spacers to make it work for the recess.
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
Hi Cody,Installed a Rotopax spare fuel tank today in the bed. Hardest part was tightening the nuts from the backside of the sheet metal. It's a reach but doable. I had to install some 3/4" spacers to make it work for the recess.
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
Any insight into what the optimal size for these would be? Bear with me, I guess you could say I am a rookie DIY’er.since i have access to these thingies and the tools....I'll save my arm and the reach (not to mention any friends willing to help) and pop these bad boys in place instead
http://www.swfastener.com/pdf/RIVNUT-TheOriginalRivnut.pdf
Hi Brad,Any insight into what the optimal size for these would be? Bear with me, I guess you could say I am a rookie DIY’er.
Seems like a good option, but a little lost if I was to actually go buy one of these from Home Depot etc. thank you!
Thanks Phil. Sounds like there is not a great option for in-bed rotopax currently. Realized my 2020 truck only has 4 tie downs with the wholes for the middle two exposed (Even after factory spray in liner). Is that still an issue or do the 2020s only come with 4? Haven’t found that answer yet.Hi Brad,
A rivnut does not solve the stress concentration issue...In fact it may aggravate it. It is purely an access device where you do not need a loose nut to secure the bracket but it still lacks a backing plate. So rivnutting the Rotopax bracket leaves you with the same possible sheetmetal cracking. The stress of the full of fuel Rotopax needs to be distributed over a large surface area of the sheetmetal.
Best,
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retired
Hi Brad,Thanks Phil. Sounds like there is not a great option for in-bed rotopax currently. Realized my 2020 truck only has 4 tie downs with the wholes for the middle two exposed (Even after factory spray in liner). Is that still an issue or do the 2020s only come with 4? Haven’t found that answer yet.
I used large washers behind the sheet metal on the bolts. Plus it just happens that the bottom of the tank rests on the other hard mount. Hopefully this is enough to avoid any problems.Hi Brad,
Yes....2020 deleted the middle tiedowns as a cost reduction. Much to the dismay of many Ranger buyers. Stupid decision JMO! There were a few forum members that mounted gear on this side wall only to find out there was a flexing and cracking around the mounting holes. If you sandwich a plate behind the bracket, thus trapping the box side sheetmetal, you help distribute the loading of the Rotopax or other devices you may choose to mount. Even if you use fender washers behind the bolts before the nuts are threaded on, you have made a large difference in stress distribution.
Best,
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retired
I had to buy longer bolts and also used some spacers between the base plate and the handle. I got everything from Tractor Supply to make it work.This is awesome! I want to do the same thing. Question: Did you have to remove the plastic liner in the wheel well at all? Or did you just jam your hand up there in between sheet metal & plastic to hold the nuts?
Also where are the spacers? Don’t have the rotopax yet so don’t quite know what is the mount and what you added. Did you use the standard rotopax hardware and just added the spacers?
Thanks for the additional info! This is an awesome set up for driving around West Texas/Big Bend country where gas can be sparse.