Managed to get a little bit done before I ran out of gas for the welder ?
Wanted to get a full perimeter weld for the fishplate so I'd never need to worry about rust forming in between it and the frame.. hogging the holes in the plate to 2x the size of the holes in the frame and welding...
A leveling kit has zero effect on the rear driveshaft.. if doesnt ruin any angles nor would it improve any. As just said above.. nothing to do with a level has a single thing to do with any of the components that would change the angle of the t case or the rear axle. They will be unchanged...
Chucklenuts lol.
The elementary school rhyme of 'im rubber, you're glue..' really doesn't fit any situation better than this one you've decided to create for yourself.
You posted an article about lifting/leveling the front end of something with A SOLID AXLE...
.. the damn article literally...
Again.. a leveling kit IN NO WAY affects driveshaft angles.
Ffs.. someone could completely remove the entirety of their front suspension.. letting the truck sit on the ground on its front bumper.. and driveshaft angles would be affected not one bit.
Drink some more coffee my dude.
According to the Catholic Church, coitus isn't supposed to be had unless it's to produce offspring... and 'coveting' my neighbors hot wife from the bushes outside their house is also a no-no...
Some suggestions are better left ignored if one desires a fulfilling life.
Successful few hours on Saturday.. knocked off the shock mounts, removed another crossmember, drilled some holes.. just gotta patch up by the driver's shock mount and we'll be ready to start making new crossmembers ??
It's crazy how quickly the road treatments ruin a vehicle. It's SO BAD that politicians have suggested salt belt folks receive some sort of 'rusty junk' tax credit because we need to spend 3 BILLION dollars a year in rot repair.
I'm relatively sure most YJs by this point are made up of more patches than factory metal lol.
Thanks though, I'm super happy with how it's come out considering it was my first go around with frame repair.
I need a decently sized patch at the driver's side shock mount too so.. more practice...
Phase 1 of frame repair mostly done, just gotta weld the overlap plate onto the inside and drill a couple holes for the rear shackle hanger bolts.
Recommended settings on the welder for 1/8" were dead nuts.. that's always appreciated. This was not the case when I was melting the exhaust...
Beauty shots from yesterday.. got the bed off and started cleaning up the frame.
'fabricate new crossmembers' has been added to the list..
More to come.
Personally, I'd do everything I could do keep the aftermarket downpipe.. there's more gains there than anywhere else in the exhaust. Have a shop put in an additional/larger muffler to quiet it down. Performance being the goal of the build and all.. it'd be a shame to toss one of the single most...
Things like steps on a truck can't be the proverbial 'lipstick on a pig' type thing IMO. They're all function.
A giant stick on hoodscoop is lipstick on a pig. Brand new chrome molding on a vehicle with rotten bumpers and no rockers is lipstick on a pig. Black rhino wheels on anything is...
Long press along with putting it in 4x4 will allow a guy to get as sideways as he wants.. noticed this when I owned my ranger. WOT cyclones until you feel queezy ftw.
Saved me the trouble of pulling the ABS fuse lol.
4x4 donuts in the snow are much rowdier and more fun than in 2wd too so.. no...
Interior cages are for race vehicles.. or at least something where you wear a helmet while operating the thing. Getting in an accident and wailing your head off of the bar that goes right past said noggin is a good way to end up drooling on yourself for the rest of your life.
Exocage sounds...