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You could see if the transmission cooler lines off of an F-150 with the 10r80 for work on this. But you will have to abandon the OEM cooler completely. Maybe you could retrofit an F-150 cooler onto it? It honestly does not look any larger the ours though. I would do some research and see...

If I was in your shoes, I would be looking for a truck that's nicknamed a "Tow Pig" if you're going to be travel with that trailer often and long distances. A long wheelbase, 3/4 or 1 ton pick would not bat an eye at that trailer and would be safer in my opinion.

This is why you thread on the nuts by hand, lightly rattle them on snug with an impact, and then finish it off with hand torquing the wheels. I never let my personal, friends, and families vehicles hit the road without the wheels being hand torqued.

I've been running a LT275/65R18 with first a 2" spacer level and now Fox 2.0's. I really like the tire size a lot on my truck. This tire size comes out at 32" in diameter and it fits with minimal drama. Plus, its a common size for F-150's and other trucks.... so, there's a lot of tire options...

I'm running a Fox 2.0's on all 4 corners with Fabtech UCA's and I'm pretty happy with it. You're on the right track by adding UCA's to you build. You can get away without them but the truck with handle and drive so much better on and offroad with them. Anything is better than the OE shocks...

Try hitting it with some naphtha or mineral spirits. Those should clean it up pretty quick with minimal drama.

I'm rolling on a fairly aggresive all terrain LT275/65R18 LR-E and I still get reasonable gas millage (about 22 mpg). Seems like 275 series is about the cut off for reasonably priced, good quality tires as well.... anything wider that that, seems like the prices generally skyrocket.

Oopsy Poopsy.....

If your tire are above 75% tread depth, I'd just throw a new tire on it and call it a day.

Its different for everyone. We have operators where I work that get double the millage out of their brakes, compared to others..... simply because they know how to drive with a heavy load (and probably do not drive like a butthole as well). Inspection is key, anything backing plate thinness...

Lanoline and Cosmoline are my go to. Cosmoline for the high spray areas and then Lanoline for everything else.

You have to take into account of the angle of each U-joint. As a U-joint rotates, it accelerates and decelerates twice throughout 1 revolution. The driveshaft may be clocked in such a way that the drive shaft is not in "textbook" phase but it in phase as an entire assembly (from the yoke on...

https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/search/101030/?q=17x9&o=date https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/wheel-tire-packages.7372/#post-130444

I would check the lower control arm eccentric bolts first. Sounds like you have something in the front suspension that is "kinda" tight but not tight enough..... causing a creaking/popping noise. It helps it you have a friend that's not scared to lay under the car, while you do what you're...

Makes sense Phil, I noticed the clocked U-joint on my driveshaft while diagnosing a vibration, after lifting my truck. I stopped by the local Ford dealer while on my lunch break after noticing this. Just climbed up a few of them, since the lots are closed here. They are all like this. Time...

Sending it back out for alignment this Saturday. Made a few other adjustments.

Update on the Fabtech UCA's..... They've been working out well. The truck handles so much better at speed and through turns. Much less body roll compared to the stock UCA's and the lower control arms pushed way out (to attempt to get the camber in spec). The truck just feels planted and...

I agree, I little more sidewall does look good on these trucks. Yours looks sharp. I like those sport package wheels.

Stock 18" wheels with 1.5" spacers. Not buying wheels until I need tires, since I've already upsized to 275/65R18. Would like to downsize to 17's, maybe 16's.