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Yup you have to use an Allen key with a wrench. An impact can damage the ball joint and boot.

Check your rear pinion angle. You might need to shim your rear end.

This is where the entire industry is going. Some manufacturers are VERY bad about this. Like Audi and Tesla. Oh you want heated seats? You have to pay a monthly subscription to turn them on.

Toyo 255s all day. Especially since you are looking at 255/75 a C rated tire. I went from the stock Grabbers to the 255/80/17 Toyo AT3s. They are excellent.

Ranger

Definitely contact the dealer for the correct tire.

I'm very happy with my Ranger. I'd go with the Ford Performance tune if you want zero warranty issues, or the Livernois Motorsports tune if you are willing to take some risk with the warranty.

OP is getting a ton of non-answers. OP check out the ROW rear leafs, Tremor leafs, or the OME set. All of them will smooth out your ride. I wouldn't mess with shortening the bump stop.

Not really. There are plenty of ways to avoid that.

100% no way the factory bent the tie rod stud like that. A lot of force is needed to do that.

You mentioned paint defects. I'd inspect for tape lines, over spray, check the fender bolts, bolts in general for signs of disassembly. If you are generally worried, maybe a body shop would be willing to check. EDIT: Carfax wouldn't pick up a transit repair, since those are always done...

Are you sure that it wasn't wrecked in transit?

+1 Happens more than you'd think

40 hours??? I'd expect 3.

Factory crash bars in place, no rubbing.

I've updated 8 separate threads, so sorry if you've seen these already.

255/80/17, they definitely look skinny! Especially on 8.5 wheels, which is the widest Toyo allows on these.

I put your problem in bold. Anticipate light changes more with braking and acceleration. Creep instead of hitting the throttle to pull forward in bumper to bumper, aka just let off the brake.

I go off peak times and there are always pumps available, but my costco has a lot of pumps.