It took me 30 minutes a corner for a level kit.
You absolutely have to remove the axle nut and break free the knuckle side of the CV.
Loosely thread the axle nut back on the CV and tap it with a soft hammer. If you don't do that, the splines could be "seized" in the knuckle and behave like...
Thanks for posting this.
For reference here are my Tremor's numbers with a 1" spacer level:
38 7/8 DF
39 1/4 PF
My rear fenders are .5" higher, but I think the rear fenders are actually taller than the front if the truck was perfectly level.
The best way to measure levelness is the pinch...
I had one on 35s that I bought new in 2007.
It was a "blind spot box" and the gas mileage was garbage (Even before the tires).
I ironically had the ECU die on me. So much for reliability. :)
Our engines do not have port, or dual injection, only direct.
The key there is port injection with a top tier fuel does gradual, or constant cleaning. Dumping a bunch of chemicals into the engine to blast off carbon is not the same as that gradual cleaning.
The only way to confirm the chemical...
The Grabbers are fine. Not my favorite tire, but they will handle off-roading with no issues.
OP: I'd worry about the side walls on those stock tires. Make sure you spare is aired up and that you have all of the tools necessary to change it, even on a trail. Maybe a bottle jack, piece of wood...
The only proper way of doing this is with professional walnut blasting.
Chemicals won't work, or for those who argue, won't work well, since fuel doesn't hit the valves, and a short burst of spray cleaner will not actually do anything. You need mechanical cleaning for direct injection...
100% remove the CV axle nuts. I also hit the cv axle, with the nut loosely threaded with a rubber dead blow hammer to unseat it (So I hit the axle nut).
I can't imagine doing this job without unseating the CVs, the stress would be brutal on the CVs and they can pop out of the diff.
Axle nuts...