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The E10 blended fuels for passenger vehicles have been around for literal decades. Likewise vehicle fuels systems have been designed to handle this fuel also for decades. Much of the ruckus behind ethanol blended fuels is either stems from; the politics behind it, high percentage blends, ie E85...

I've used basic channel locks. Go in horizontally, crunch down on the edge of the filter and usually that gives me enough leverage to get it turning. Had to do that with the first change and occasionally when it doesn't want to loosen by hand.

TBH, I've been down this rabbit hole before. I think our obsession with vehicle maintenance is a mix cultural and psychological. America is unique in our car culture. We drive everywhere, much of our infrastructure is built around cars. Consequently, there is an entire industry build around...

I'm a former over-maintainer. As I've gotten older, I've adopted more of a "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" mentality. Quality oils/filters/parts and change at or before the recommended service interval, and move on with life.

The funny thing is Amsoil's reps swore up and down that their incorrectly spec'd Signature fuel efficient ATF was completely Mercon and Dexron ULV compatible, only to come around a release this stuff.

Yes, I have the kit on my truck. I installed it myself. I can tell you with 100% certainty that the axle flip with the OE shackles is a 6" drop of the rear. There's nothing provided on Belltech's kit that can provide you with a 2" rear drop. Belltech's customer service not knowing what they are...

The shackles on the belltech lowering kit are actually lift shackles. The axle flip with the OE shackles result in a 6" drop not a 4". The shackles provided with the kit lift the rear back for a 4" or 5" total drop.

You're thinking of clutch vehicles on drag radials. You're not putting a big shock on the driveline foot-braking an automatic trans on a bias slick. On a side note, be careful on the top end of the track if you are running a normal size front tire. Big end sway with a bias/radial combo is real...

The OE BFR1874 pads use a "GG" friction rated compound, which is about the highest friction rating you'll see on a "street" oriented brake pad and typical of a higher end ceramic or metallic compound. Just for context this is the same rating as the Powerstop Z23 "Carbon-fiber ceramic" pads...

The OE pads are ceramic.

Check engine light is more than likely upstream O2 bank stuck lean. The ECU is having to add fuel to reach the lower stoich point of E85. I believe it will clear itself within a few drive cycles after your fuel mixture falls back into range of what the ECU deems acceptable.

Just stay out of heavy throttle. E85 isn't going to hurt anything unless you run out of fuel system capability, which isn't likely unless you are ragging on it. I'd run about 1/2 of a tank out and see if you can find some Ethanol free.

They all do the exact same thing. It's a box that makes your ECU think the pedal is pushed down further(or less) than it actually is. I can't see any practical use for such a device while off roading. Your right foot is all the pedal commander you need.

If you value your knuckles and your sanity, go to to a parts store and rent the proper rear brake tool. It's literally free at most auto parts stores. If you encounter a modicum of resistance retracting those pistons, you're going to be in for a bad time trying to go at it with a set of...

The OE pads are ceramic. Unless you've been entering your truck in NASCAR races, it's HIGHLY unlikely that you need pads, rotors, and calipers. At 30k I seriously doubt you even need pads. If you're pads were on their last few mm of material you would be able to hear the wear indicators when...

Non-tow package XL means you are going to have to run your own charge line. The non-tow Xls don't have the TBC harness or the trailer module. Fortunately there is a free 12V harness under the bed. You will see a small pigtail on the driver side of the bed with nothing plugged into it. That is...

You can get 12 quarts of Mercon ULV, the filter, and a new pan gasket for well under $200

My understanding is that the spare is mph "limited" for safety/liability reasons. That spare can sit under your truck for years before you actually need it. So it's not in your best interest to slap it on and go about at 75mph for extended distances, especially considering the chances of it...

That's way out of the "safe repairable" zone.

This video popped up over on BITOG, this morning. One of the mods had a cogent response. dnewton3