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The point is - non-greasy or oily - Coating, I just happen to have some left over - just spray the towel and wipe. As far as the (exterior) I switched to something else as for me it (personally) it lacked luster and my tail gate damper was removed as well. :wink:

I suspect if you wipe it down with a cleaner or protectant such as (303) as well as the belt guide that it rides on - may help - it builds up lint and body dirt - it always helps when mine starts hanging up.

Negative - For access panel - from this borrowed pic - which for ref the fuel pump would be aligned with the (splotch) in the paint on the door sill and the vertical raised section (mouse house) plus all the manuals have you drop the tank

If you get pics with the bed off - it’s a GREAT opportunity for (Connector) and (Ground Point) ident locations:clap: I have just about all connectors but lack ground points for the truck

Never really looked that close at it - until now. But if you reference- the fuel tank pic above - for a SCrew - the fuel pump is mounted approximately 24 inches forward of the fill hose (inlet) This places the center of the pump about dead center of the rear door handle Using visual...

The Duty Cycle - is maxed out - in an attempt to reach desired So that leaves - Weak Pump (most likely) or Dirty Ground (as a possible) G403 - General Location Note: These location diagrams (are) only general locations and are not always 100% (exact location) Example: From another member -...

These may provide a better visual (guidance) for the Breather Tube Lower Bracket (Clamp) Upper Bracket - note routing and this is viewed from the driver's side wheel well - same access as the oil filter

Ok, I would need a refresh - The BLIS module was replaced and never programed? 1. The oil change required - can be reset via the - IPC Menu 2. The BLIS Module can be reprogramed with Forscan

It appears to have been a bad connection - Trailer Connector or associated connectors (Truck Side) as it was picking up - Trailer Connected - Cross Traffic - Deactivated - and then Trailer Disconnected - if you slow the video down you can see the messages Parking Lot - Possible Tight Turns -...

Before you condemn the LP Fuel Pump - Get an actual (Gauge) on the system to verify that the pressure reading is accurate. Note: A Pressure difference of 15 PSI (is within acceptable limits) - Gauge to PID The TAP in - = The HP Fuel Pump Feed (QD) Ref: Normal Readings (Approximate) @ Hot Idle...

That is Great news: As I suspected - Outside the box - thinking - Signal Return issue @ G117. This could cause the Crank Sensor (Signal) wire to have been overheated (giving) a stretched appearance. The Cooling Fan - Wire Rubbing and or Damage only enhanced the issues due to the bad ground...

Which is why - we need to check each side of the circuit - VREF & Signal Return To isolate is it a bad VREF or Bad Ground Noting that the Exhaust Pressure = Circuit High, this may point to a bad ground floating the signal wire (high) Noting that we have 3 -lost com codes - (is this a lost...

Things to - Try 1. Check for codes - Clear Them (If any) - Note what they are 2. FCIM - Self Test (Reset) - Scan Tool 3. Pull BCM - Fuse 12 for 5-Minutes Do you have - Dual Auto -and can you go to manual and adjust temp (full travel) Lo to Hi?

I think it may be good idea - (for confirmation) to move outside the box and check all the PCM Grounds The PCM has (4) Ground Wires that feed into (G117) and G117 also has via (splice) the Brake Pedal Position Switch Check this (Ground Point) G117 Check the contacts at pins 96-97-98 and 99...

I should add - being that this was deleted from newer trucks 1. Add to the VREF (LE135) - The Crankshaft Pressure Sensor as you have a 2019 (its installed)

Ok - Then we need to isolate which side of the sensor is triggering the (Circuit High) code The Exhaust Pressure sensor is on a VREF Circuit - LE135 and 3 sensors are on that circuit. This is a 5-Volt Reference Circuit 1. Exhaust Press Sensor 2. Crankshaft Position Sensor 3. Cooling Fan Motor...

From the initial history - and so many codes. Yes, the (Exhaust Press Sensor) is a good place to start - Possibly coated with coolant and internally shorted from initial coolant leak. A good check is pull up the Barometric PID and compare it to: Exhaust Pressure and MAP Pressure - Reading @...

Post the codes you are getting and what specific issues you have with the engine

For those that have the non NA version Ranger - (ROW) - note that this manual won’t cover your model fully - Engine Variants and Wiring Diagrams as well as connector pinouts differ-we in the US do not have easy access to the ROW variants other than rolling the dice on EBay listings for a true...

This is a known issue (from the factory) - that the dealers and ford will say - Its (NORMAL) However - if you perform a full complete system bleed - ABS Module + All 4 Corners, you will find that there is (Air) in the system - with a great amount noted in the RR. This will bring the brake pedal...