Mine are not locations specific at all. They re-learn their new positions with a ~20 mile drive after rotation every time, which includes carrying one of the rotated wheels in the box of the truck.
At first I thought it was almost instant, but later realized it was key on distance driven for...
I have a similar fitment problem. The flares are a little wider than my bumper, but it's really only noticeable from a lower viewing angle. I may weld some extensions on the bumper to bring it out a little when I remove it to de-rust and re-paint, but may not. I really don't mind it as is.
Nice build.
I play in deep mud like you, and have a similar type of build. I also carry a spare alternator, but have yet to need it. I think the problem isn't so much about being in deep mud, or water, but how well set up your truck is, and how you approach the mud. Shrockorks (or other) skid...
The diagram in your first post notes a 3.4% speedo error. When your speedo reads 50 mph, you'll actually be traveling at 51.7mph, at 100mph you'll be doing 103.4mph. Depending on whether you stick to the post limit or push it, and how strict your local LEO are, it may be worth changing or at...
Long story short, I have a broken tail light and Ford replacement in Canada is $1800 or $2035 after tax. Alternately Anzo has LED replacement sets for $695 USD on sale for Labour Day $595 with free shipping, which even after exchange is still less than half the cost of a single new one from...
I don't know if it's in the manual, but you need to drive about 20 miles (distance not speed) for the truck to pick-up the new sensors. You may also need to reach a speed of 20mph to wake them, I've never tested that, but distance is key to getting the truck to remember the new sensors.
I had...
Basically a high power switch. Trucks often use them as a master switch to cut all power while parked so there is no parasitic drain, but can be used for high draw individual circuits as well.
Search Amazon.com - truck master switch, power cut off, or isolator, there are lots of options...
My truck sat for 15 hours, and I just went out to lower the pressure (I over filled them on Friday after a wheeling trip air up). Turn the truck on to accessory and all 4 came up as 39 psi, then I dropped them all to 36 while the truck was still on. I went back to the dash and it showed 3 @ 38...
They may well be made by McGard, but they are definitely a 2 piece lug nut, and prone to separation issues. Here is an image of mine from the Ranger, and a google image of a post failure nut. I'm not saying all will, but both of my last 2 Ford trucks did, and it is a common problem with others...
I can see 26 windmills from my home on Lake Erie. I much prefer looking at those over the coal stacks at Naticoke power generating station before they knocked them down. The problem is, the coal plant actually produced power instead of feeding an illusion that green energy is going to save us.
The factory silver lug nuts are a traditional style steel lug nut, open at both ends, with a polished acorn style cap for appearance. With multiple removal and installation cycles, the cap will stretch/wear and allow for rust/corrosion to get between the two surfaces, then the cap can split at...
IIRC correctly the tie-downs are rated to 600lbs, so a semi-permanent bungee should be fine, but I wouldn't use it as an anchor to swing humans off the side of a bridge or anything crazy like that ;)
I wouldn't pay $20 for an engine cover unless I was having a water pooling issue from regular use in weather. If it's just a car washing water pooling problem, I'd blow the water out after washing. If it's due to driving in rain and a regular problem, I think I'd figure something out with some...