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Well I am almost positive it is a minor exhaust leak. Probably the crappy band clamps the exhaust came with. It is more obvious when it is downshifting or holding a gear at low speed. I see some carbon around a joint. some quality over lap clamps are in my future.

Im gonna order a whole pallet of baby oil for a diddy party. All the local rangers can swing by and we can check for the fore and aft play in your front shafts.

I have a steel knuckle. Got some free unused outer tie rods and they fit perfectly. Never really wondered if they fit or not. They were ford OEM ones

Thanks. Ill check the brakes too if removing it doesn’t remove the noise. I have never owned something with a rzeppa joint. So new to me for how they fail or what is normal.

1. It does it in both 2 and 4wd. 2. I can’t test because I only hear it as a reflection off of a wall or building close to road. If in an open parking lot I hear nothing. 3. I can hear it while slowing down. Pitch doesnt change just the frequency it occurs. My big ask here is does...

They are definitely different. All cars are. Some back in the day were reverse threaded, now more common are small angles and off sets. They mirror each other. Go with a good aftermarket on rockauto. The green brand is actually pretty good. Ttx I think its called. Made for severe use and...

The Diddy shaft lubing got a lot more responses. Ill have to change the title I guess.

Anyone lube the front shaft yet? I am almost at 132,000 miles. The last few days I have pulled every little pebble and piece of debris out of my tire. Keep hearing the ticking noise of a rock. I drove past a wall nice and slow and noticed the ticking while it changed with speed was too fast...

Would be my last new vehicle ever then. Used car prices would go through the roof and automotive enthusiasts like ourselves would be a dying breed.

New exhaust means the turbo can spool up faster and potentially boost higher and faster than the diverter valve can respond. Could have blown a boot off or split one. Look for oil on all the boots. Feel around them. If your hand is oily at all it is leaking there.

Check min rotor thickness and then measure your rotors. I am a big fan of full swaps too. However I did my wifes car at 75k and just did pads. I guess I have been pissing money away for years. those 2 part numbers appear to be the same, one might just be an updated part. I am a big fan of...

It doesnt just look unsafe, it really is unsafe. Those threaded rods curve and look like they are going to explode. But I did HD springs on an f150 with it and didn’t die. Definitely did it outside the garage and kept it at arms reach.

I am pretty sure this whole part is on my 5100s. So if you want to preassmble you would need this.

Like a Miata, Rock Auto is always the answer.

Rock auto has better pictures than ford. Its in there.

I dont even see it pictured. It might be part of #5. But it is definitely a separate piece.

Check ebay or junk yard websites. Grab whatever you can and order UCAs to match. Are you doing the installation yourself? A knuckle swap isn’t too hard if you are already in there.

I once desoldered a led warning light to pass visual inspection on emissions. No judgement here.

Once you do it you cant go back. And im serious he dyed it.

My wife had an AWD one too. But it was RWD until it slipped or was in sport mode. Just felt more normal than her old FWD explorer. The infotainment systems all suck honestly. Car play is cool but I would prefer a pioneer head unit upgrade like the old days. Just simple.