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Some pics. B&O speakers look like a lot going on. Mind you they are as cheaply made as possible to keep Ford afloat and try to turn a profit, and thus highly up-gradable, but there are a lot of small and important engineering here and in the door panels. Factory car audio has come a long way.

Started in with a rear door. Also pictured are the rear door speakers from the 2019 Ranger B&O, which are coaxials. The two extra pins are unused on the 4pin speaker plug, these are a normal coaxial taking a single full range amp channel. The Metra speaker brackets are shorter and not as...

Parts are trickling in, almost there. Decided to get some matching coaxials of the same vintage as the component speakers I plan to use. I was going to leave the B&O speakers in but I have decided to upgrade them all together and go with a single 5ch amp. This keeps all the b&o parts together...

Thanks for the info and part numbers. I will be sharing what I learn in the next week or so working on my b&o.

That looks nice and clean! You could glue in some dowels cut to length to brace the MDF. 1/4" is on the thin side.

Cool! Yeah I am on the fence between using the spot in place of my B&O sub, building a thin custom box, and using the tray that you are, and making a replacement storage spot where my B&O sub is.

I would use the passive crossover that came with the speakers, personally. Morel is a reputable brand and speaking of tweeter protection, the passive crossovers would be designed with that in mind so by using them you are guaranteeing that as Morel intended. It would require a fairly detailed...

Firmly grip the sail panel and pull, it comes right off, no tools needed! I didn't think to look at what the B&O cap value is.

What new tweeters did you put in? Yeah a 22 uF would be a fairly low high pass filter, added to whatever signal the tweeter is getting already.

Getting ready to gear up with parts. Not pictured: decided on a Kenwood Excelon X802-5 5ch amp and an Alpine S-W8D4 sub.

Here's the tweeter situation in the Ranger B&O stereo. Looks like a silk dome, which is good, but a filter cap off the back, which is not what I was expecting. It's possible there's factory digital filtering at the amp in addition to the filter cap, I'm not sure. No issue for me since it...

I'm going to do this exact thing using Instapak moldable packing foam, to measure the size and volume of the space occupied by the B&O sub. They are available on ebay as individual pieces... hope one for a 1.0 cuft box should do it. Thanks for the idea!

So the Tremor used the space between the frame rails under the chassis for that huge subwoofer space under the floor?

The JL 10TW1 is like the Alpine SWRT10, both are 4 ohm so a single one for the Ranger is not an efficient setup for amplifier choice. This is why I am looking at the Alpine S-W8D4, since it is just as thin and can be ran at 2 ohms and likes the small volumes like 0.3 cuft.

@Ed Venture Yeah 180 watts would be enough for some good bass, I don't think it would be lacking. Assuming the sub in the system could handle it, doubling the power is only worth 3 dB of more SPL. I love WinISD, it's handy and easy once you learn it. WBCD is good too, which is Excel based...

I would look at an Alpine 8" Type S or R if you have room for a full mounting depth woofer. They like small boxes and have much better xmax than others in the same price range.

I spent a while thinking through the options. It actually would greatly simplify the build to swap the front doors to come component speakers with passive crossovers. Reason being, they need their own amp channels and active filters. Here are the two options I am seeing: Two amps + active...

That video makes me want to try sound reduction treatments before ditching the B&O speakers! One possibility that fits with my path would be to actually keep the B&O speakers, replace the sub, and add a 5ch amp and NavTV A2B. I could always replace speakers later, that's easy .... Hmmm. I...

I have no idea how the noise cancellation or engine noise enhancement would be impacted. I am guessing the Sync module provides audio stream to the stereo that get summed at the B&O amp, all over the A2B data bus. For non-B&O I am guessing the mixing/summation happens at the head unit. I also...

Yeah that was "white" noise: "The Pink Noise generator uses white noise filtered through a -10 dB/decade filter generated from a weighted sum of a series of first order filters, as devised by Paul Kellet circa 1999. Stated accuracy is within 0.05 dB above 9.2 Hz at 44.1 kHz sample rate." REW...