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OK, I’ll answer my own question. Tonight I added 3/4” spacers at the rear of the seat rails. Existing bolts were long enough to accommodate the spacers. This improved the seating position somewhat. Now I can move the seat back enough to get my knees off the dash and still see out the...

I’ll try to take a photo of where I brought the cable through the firewall. Lots of room in engine compartment to work, just a long way off the ground. My C Max hybrid, however, was a bear. Very crowded in there with the extra added hazard of big orange 400 volt wires running around. Drilling...

Is the $1607 just labor or does it include all the components? If just labor, that’s a lot of money. On the Ranger you could do it yourself without a lift in your garage easily in a day. Check etrailer.com for component pricing for comparison to what the dealer is charging. My Ranger baseplate...

I don’t understand why the power seat is designed the way it is. At about 2/3 of the way back, the seat starts to drop. Eventually my eyes are about even with the bottom of the door window. Who designed this mess? Has anyone modified their seat tracks with spacers or something to correct this...

Cable is inside a sheath from front of car to brake pedal. Does not affect brake feel when driving. But some people do unhook cable at pedal when driving just to keep cable from kinking or something. I have ReadyBrake on my CMax and my New Ranger and have found them to be very reliable and...

Tailgate is aluminum.. Magnet doesn’t stick to aluminum.

I got the “Check Brake” warning today when unhooking. It went away and didn’t come back.

Me too. Very frustrating, all dressed up and nowhere to go. And, gas only $1.45!

I’ve considered taking it to the dealer but I’m pretty sure I know how that will end. I’m hoping enough people notice it and complain that there will be a Fix someday. I brought this up on another thread and nobody agreed. One guy even said I just didn’t know how to drive.

I just tried out towing my Ranger and thought the brakes weren’t working quite right. I’m using a ReadyBrake and this is my third installation so I’m pretty sure it’s installed right. So after I unhooked, it parked at the top of my driveway and did the whole Flat Tow procedure then released...

Mine does it and it irritates me to no end. I don’t like it downshifting thru the gears as I’m stopping. Been driving 60 years and I’ve never driven an automatic that does this. And also, I think that at the very end it unlocks the torque converter, effectively letting the truck run free...

Thanks guys for leading me down this rabbit hole. I measured mine and discovered it is ~1/2” low on drivers side. Also discovered one shim on passenger side, two shims on drivers side. Mine is late 2019 production. I was happy in my ignorance until I stumbled upon this thread, now I’m irritated...

So, now three dead transmissions on this forum. In each case Ford is Denying responsibility. Not feeling really good about towing my Ranger next week for the first time. There’s really no conclusive way to prove you followed the flat tow procedure so Ford will blame the owner every time. The...

I agree re the C Max Manual. Ours was built in 2012 so the Manual was a mess. Lots of stuff in there was cut and pasted from the European version and was just wrong for our car. Among the screwups was the flat tow preparation procedure which was eventually revised in later versions (twice)...

That’s why they give you an Owners Manual. As they always say “RTFM!”

Ordered mine Monday from Etrailer. Arrived today (Wednesday) @ 4:00 pm. By 4:30 it was all bolted in and ready to tow. Getting it out of the box and unwrapped took 10 of the 30 minutes. Fit perfectly, did not have to lower the spare tire. Saved $383 compared to Ford OE part.

I hope you can find someone interested in lowering this thing. Between tumbling out the door and vaulting up to the bed, I’ll be in a wheelchair too before long.

Tell Ford to stuff it. Draw Tite with higher capacity is $106 with free shipping at etrailer.com. Takes thirty minutes to install using the four existing bumper bolts.

Has anyone considered removing the two spacers between the rear axle and spring to get 1/2” drop for free? Should be fairly easy but might require new U bolts since Ford doesn’t recommend reusing them after removal.

I don’t think shear has anything to do with this application. 1/2” bolts in 9/16 holes won’t see much shear until the joint is so loose it starts chucking and as proven back in the 70’s that will cause the nut to unscrew. See the summary below...