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This is a...loaded comment, and really not accurate. Once started, you can pull the battery out of the equation and your truck will still run as if nothing is wrong. That hasn't changed in recent vehicles (and is still the best way to test if an alternator is bad or not).

Absolutely, turn signals should always be amber. I wired in my bike hitch carrier to a 7-pin so I got reverse trigger as well, and the turn signals on that are amber.

Yeah, more and more trucks and trailers are showing up on the roads with amber rear facing lights that mirror either the brake lights or act as running lights/turn signals that are always on. The "X" just means, leave whatever is currently there, just replace the "2" in the position it shows in.

That's not true. These are state-level laws and most states allow both red and amber rear facing lighting on the road.

That's *literally* the first post in this thread.

You don't need to use the hex edit for the TPMS expected pressure, it exists in the GUI settings. I changed mine a long time ago. It does not impact the low-pressure warning threshold however AFAIK.

Yes, in every typical 4x4 the transfer case is always turning as it's connected right to your transmission, regardless of the gear selection the fluid is flowing. And in most vehicles these days the front diff is always turning as well, it definitely does in the Ranger.

This isn't actually true in *most* modern trucks anymore. The reason that was a suggestion in the older days is due to the fact that front hubs were disengaged when not in 4wd, but most newer vehicles don't disengage at the hubs anymore, the front driveline is constantly spinning even if it's...

It doesn't have to be 64-bit. 2000 didn't offer a 64-bit version and XP's 64-bit version was largely unsupported. Windows 7 of any flavor should be perfectly fine.

Looks good, congrats! I'm also not surprised you got the run around from SM Ford. They were one of my least favorite dealers to deal with when I lived out there, I constantly had issues with them. Caruso Ford was better overall, they were just busier.

The milky fluids ??

YOU CAN'T PARK THERE. Found your problem, there's water in your parking spot. ?

Yeah, it took a while for mine (as you can see earlier in this thread) to get things figured out, but in the end they took care of it. Really the cover is the *majority* of the cost if your plugs are otherwise not seized in the head. It's almost $300 in cost for that alone, they then charge like...

According to my dealer, even with the ESP, they had to eat the cost of the cover

It's in the BdyCM I'm fairly certain. I did it for the "key in ignition, vehicle running, no driver" honk. I am 90% sure the keyless is in there too, should be that same module. If you look at the names it should be fairly obvious. Filter on "honk" or "disable" and one of those should bring it up.

Just ask all the people who are doing "wrapped" plates now, these started getting big right before I left and it's bad news bears if you get caught. https://wrapyourplate.us/products/california-license-plate-vinyl-wrap-custom-license-plate-diy-kit-inactive

I wouldn't worry about it, personally. I've run with my bike carrier loaded a bunch of times without issues, and case law dictates that it's likely not a problem. I also would not buy something like linked above, which is a "vanity" plate - those are crazy illegal to run on the road in a way...

You should never use anti-seize, it changes the way torque is applied, and as you noted, causes things to loosen even when torqued to spec. Official spec is 12ft-lb. 10-15 is acceptable generally.

At least for me, it seems nose down is the worst offender because of the roof -> windshield -> cowl -> engine pathway.

Yes, I've had the wheels off more than once plus multiple sets of tires and rotations. Gorilla has confirmed that these are the right lugs for our setup as well.