I would remove the spring compressors. They are only compressing the spring but not shortening the length of the strut. They may also be causing some interference with the upper control arm but I can't really tell. You could loosen the bolt attaching the upper control arm to the frame to relieve...
You don’t need to drill a hole. You can just tuck the wires underneath the bottom edge of the factory trim panel. They will be hidden by the Stedi panel. It will make more sense when you are doing the install.
Stedi’s installation page shows show pictures that kind of give you an idea of what...
I drilled them. It wasn’t fun but I managed to get it done by myself. Slow drill speed is the key. If you run the drill too fast then the metal will get hot and make it tougher to drill through. Also the top row is hard to get to. You really need a 90 degree drill to get those in straight. If...
No vibration or chatter. I have been getting some squeaking from the rear under light braking. I wasn't sure which side so I was checking the brake pads this morning.
Has anyone seen radial marks on brake rotors before? I have one area on my driver's rear rotor that has these. I've never seen them before. Any ideas what may have caused them and should I have them turned down or replaced? The brake pads still have plenty of material on them.
It will be fine. I’ve had to put 87 in mine when I was doing some over landing in some areas where premium wasn’t available. A while back, there was an engineer on these forums who was involved in the FP tune who said the software will adjust for the lower octane.
I used a step drill bit with a right angle drill. They key is to to run the drill slowly. If you drill too fast you will heat up the frame and make it harder. Some drill oil will help keep it cool also. I didn’t have any so I resorted to spraying with WD40. Same with the screws, go slow.