Search results

I use the best gas and highest octane available when I stop. I get 12-17, but typically 15mpg.

I tow 4600lbs a lot. I use good oil and filters. I change both at 5K. If I were you, and I’m not, I’d do the 6K, change it and then add some interesting places to the trip and get home 5K later.

We had to put in a second leach field a few years ago. We are in clay, so they aren’t as effective. We have valves so that as one field gets saturated, I can switch back to the other after it’s had a few years to recover. Alternating every 3-5 years has worked for us so far…………

I just use cheap white zip ties On the flap covering the oil filter. Cheap and fast. Never took the time or money for magnets. Maybe some day. https://www.kjmagnetics.com

It will never come here, and I’d want one with single cab and really long bed, but wouldn’t want to pay the cost. It’s sometimes fun to play ‘what if‘ though.

I personally find too much variation in filter manufacturing tolerances even on brands like Wix to use the giant socket style filter wrenches on a stuck filter. For normal tight filters they work, but so will anything else.

BTW, I didn’t think my factory filter would come off, but enough extensions to get past the fender and a piece of pipe on the ratchet, with a 3 arm wrench, and it came off. It was a bit bent, so I’m not sure what robot installs those, but some programmer could back off the torque.

I’ve destroyed a few filters for removal in my life. I’ve never had one I couldn’t remove - yet. If a filter wrench, including 3 arm and strap don’t work depending on the space you have to work, my most successful tool, even better than the screwdriver through the filter, is giant slip lock...

I just changed rear shocks and tow all the time with no rubbing either :cool:

I’ve had Thule’s in the past that go on fast and easy. The Konigs are the closest to that. I have them for the rear of my Ranger, and they to go on and off fast.

Even when towing I am often below 190. It’s rare I see 210 to check it. I’d have to have 210 and a level place for truck and trailer just to do a rare factory spec trans level check. It’s never happened. I did see 225 once towing up and down long winding 17% grades. Let it cool at the top...

A lower cost mirror option that is solid, wide and works well that I used before the ClearViews were available: https://hensleymfg.com/collections/mckesh-mirrors?srsltid=AfmBOooH6Fy57UZOT4aHj04_PO2yxyvxBDsctSdncvJCiGptessTttHu

When I bought mine in ‘21, I got it for several $1000’s below invoice. I always just pay a few hundred over dealer, but can’t always beat them out of holdback.

I read it as should is a requirement. Not trying to offend, but to me, should is a mandate, recommend is an advisement. Your intent, and my reading are different. It’s always nice to clarify however; which you did. Thanks

My manual recommends, it does not require. While I try to use it when under load, I have been places I was glad to even get 87, and still towed just fine.

I hope you make it waaay more than 5 years Phil!

Sounds like you have a good plan. Get your WDH sorted out and weigh truck and trailer so your weights are correct. As far as suspension, I have 4600’s on the rear with blue Sumos’s replacing the stock bump stops. For a brake controller, if I could not get the Ford spec Redarc tied into the...

I use my phone.

Never, but I have a 2wd :)

Yep it’s all junk now, and parts typically become unavailable pretty fast. When I find something that lasts, or has good parts availability, I keep it going as long as I can.