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Thanks. I did it last week, kept the original washer seal and no leaks so far.

When you did the transfer case, did you replace the crush washer? I’m about to do mine so just curious.

Just order a new one to replace it. They don’t cost very much. It’s thread sealant not glue. It’s only in there with maybe 20 ft lbs. it comes out very easily.

Thanks. My main question was really around 75w or 80w. I know the manual says 80w but I’ve seen a lot of discussion over the years of threads I just read talking about 75w for the synthetic benefits. I’m inclined to stick with the manual but trying to understand whether there’s any risk to going...

I’m going to split the difference and go with the amsoil severe gear 80W-90 I saw used in the write up. I hadn’t read that yet when i posted. Little more expensive but I too prefer synthetic. Even with the engine oil - I request the full synthetic.

Clutch tip. Thank you sir!

Thanks!! I don't have a service manual, but appreciate the tip!

What's the conclusion here - stick with conventional 80W-90 or is synthetic 75 W-90 ok / preferred?

I'm actually looking to do this too - same year and FX4. I haven't had issues with my transmission of diff - but dealer tried to tell me it needed to be changed (despite being 110k miles away from recommended factory service interval) but I figure it can't hurt if I do it myself. I'm sure I'm...

rotors seems smooth without a noticeable lip. I have plenty of brake pad left - i had it at the dealer a month or two ago and more than 6mm left on all four. The sound only seems audible inside the cab - and even then right at the pedal itself (or at the rubber boot that the pedal pushes into)...

At low speeds, my brake pedal makes an audible grown when I press it. There’s also a slight vibration in the pedal. However, the brakes themselves seem to work fine and there’s no pulsing that you would typically expect with brake pad issues or warped rotors. Having a very difficult time...

My option to adjust screen brightness is grayed out. I can’t figure out what setting I have turned on that won’t let me adjust brightness. Surely for didn’t disable this option, right?

Out of curiosity - what color should the LED light be? Mine shows solid Amber. However the LED on the outlet on my Explorer is solid green.

I think that’s it. I’m using an anker nano 20w fast charger trying to feed an iPhone 13 Pro. It’s almost seems confused about what it’s trying to do. Eventually it does figure it out - also seems to help if I plug into an older device first and then immediately into my phone.

I hear ya. This is really a weird one. It works just fine on certain devices. Perhaps my newer phone draws more than my wife’s older phone.

That’s true. But this is a cell phone charger and it draws very little. Either way I likely won’t be relying on this very often going forward.

I’m glad I found this. I’ve been going crazy today trying to figure out why my cell phone charger cycles on off every few seconds - like it’s pulsing - when plugged into the 110v outlet. Strangely - it does not do this in the 110v outlet in my explorer. But at least I’m not crazy. And for what...

I think it might be related to my model of phone. It does it on both mine and my sons iPhone 13 but not on my wife’s iPhone 12 or any of our other Apple devices. It’s just so strange that this does not occur in my other ford vehicle.

Have a strange one. My ranger ac power outlet doesn’t seem to like usb c wall chargers. When plugged into a device - power to the device seems to cycle on and off repeatedly. The outlet itself maintains power. It seems to be the charger is trying to figure out current and it’s turning on and...

It appears to have its own power connector. In the lower left I’d the glass there is a Rubber housing that connects to a wire that sits in the track the pane used to slide open / closed. Best I can tell - the wire is connected.