My friend I don't think we have any REAL better choices. Going to Toyota, GM, or Dodge will just have us dealing with the same bs but different issues.
I always bought used and dealt with issues myself. For the wife we buy new and it's a honda. Not because I feel it's the most reliable brand...
My biggest fear is getting bit out there and not getting help soon enough. I'm not in the middle of no where, cell service is fine but I'm far enough out that help would take much longer then I'd like.
I grew up in a small rural town. Every summer we would be at the river and creeks. One day...
Down here in the Orleans area both of our mtb trails are in swampy areas and surrounded by canals. I've come up on a few Water Moccasins throughout the years, riding the smaller trail that get as much traffic.
I had one coil up and jump at me. I knew it was going to miss but my fear was that...
It shouldn't as the spring is moving up and down the shock housing. The shock rod is longer then a stock rod and is built to perform within the allowable range of height limits set by the manufacturer. Go beyond the lower or higher limit and you can damage the shock.
Idk if it's possible with...
But then that spring and shock would be compressed 1/2 more then the other side. Where as making the adjustments needed only the shock is compressed. Which is fine because it's designed for it.
Just saying, that's one of the positives of having an adj coilover setup. I had it on my fbody and I...
122k, 10k oic with amsoil 5w30 signature series and amsoil filter, tuned since new.
I sprayed a cleaner through the intake at 70k, before I knew it was a bad idea, didn't notice any difference. My mpg have been pretty consistent.
Okay, it seems I misunderstood your question. I thought you were asking did anyone leave the tune when in the shop for a rebuild or replacement.
I tuned my truck at the 1000mile mark. Drove great up till around 110k is when the transmission first acted up. Then 115k is when I gained 4 neutrals
I am tuned and went back to stock before sending mine in to get the transmission rebuilt. I did it because that's what I was told to do by a
Livernois.
Yeah idk how much of that was skill or just straight up LUCK.. Not only was there the danger of getting swept away but also sliding backwards, back into the water , going up that incline.
Everyone has their opinions on sparkplug brands.
I went to the parts store and got a set of NGKs replacements for the Ranger. Stock motorcraft works fine to.
No no need to change coils unless you are having an issue that leads to the coil being bad.
It's not difficult. The one closer to...
I'll soon have to be dealing with this....or not...
I've had the clicking noises going on for awhile now. The driver side will be cold but the passanger side will be warmer. At the moment, to fix it, I set it on full heat and let it get really warm in the truck. Then change it back to a cooler...
I'll look into it more. I just didn't want to pay money for a product that won't suit my driving needs, according to the builder. The aluminum shaft is a good bit more then I'm wanting to pay
At the moment, doing 80/90mph I have no felt vibration.
Well it's steel vs aluminum. The woods ds is a nice piece but won't work for me. My ranger is a pavement pounder and I'm on the hwy majority of the time. According to his calculator I would be coming close to the max critical speed.
Before you buy any driveshaft for vibrations one should make...