I don't have any pictures of CV angle, it was a concern , but having read a bunch of threads on this subject it appears 3.5" of lift is the height that most doing a diff drop are at...I searched and could not find a heavy duty after market CV outer half shaft for the Ranger... I'm at 3" of lift...
I'm running an extended travel 2.5 coilover (ICON)....To get the full advertised 35% of additional travel an after market UCA is required.... Another point of binding at full droop is the stock tie rod ball joint...In this picture taken during my recent tire rotation you can see the FK bearing...
Expensive....yes.... but , mill work is not cheap.... there is more to it than just the price of the Heim joint..... Give APG credit for designing and providing after market suspension parts for the Ranger with cast steel spindles.... choices are limited ....
I have a 2019 Ford Transit 150/ 3.5 EcoBoost low roof van (my work vehicle) and a 2004 Mazda RX-8 that I bought new in 2003....the Mazda is my high RPM twisty road specialist , I have kept it around for when I feel the need to throw a CD in the player , turn up the volume and drive 150 mph..?
MoodyBlue; You are not the first one to break one....I had to use a breaker bar incorporating a back and forth technique I have learned on my job fixing equipment in the field.... small incremental turns in both directions. Took me about 30 back and forths before I reached one complete turn...
The Mickey Tompson ,Wild Peaks and the Cooper Discoverer Rugged Treks , are all what they are now calling a hybrid tire... all share the deep center tred with an all terrain design , combined with a wide lug and rugged outer tred and side wall of a M/T ....I Have had the Cooper Rugged Trek on...
Should be okay with the shocks you have now. The accordion shape of the Icon bump stop theoretically should dampen the blow on a hard hit when shock bottoms out. I would have a little apprehension with the soft stock shocks letting the the stock spring over arc / flatten on the perch. .kind of...
I have Icon bump stops...their main purpose is to compliment, allow for more travel when combined with a shock and leaf spring upgrade..
When removing the stock frame mount cup bolt , a little heat and breaker bar may be required. The factory Loctite is equivalent to the red
After completing my full front and rear mid-travel suspension, I gave it a couple test hits thru a series of 3 very acute speed bumps...the kind you normally would slow to 5-10 mph for . I hit them square on at 20 - 35 and 50 mph... initial impact jolts were less than expected, and rear only...
Having done the complete mid travel " over build" myself, the tie rod ends were the the last pieces of the puzzle left...they looked skinny and the bend in the stock rod end bothered me....Toe angle changes between alignments gave me an excuse to replace the ball joint ends with a heavy duty end...
Large tires combined with a tire getting wedged in rut , can cause tie rod failure...after a few alignments I noticed toe angle was what would change the most after some offroading... so .....I replaced the stock tie rod ends with APG Billet ends with the Heim steering joints...
I have the Icon progressive leaf springs on my truck..installed as shipped without swapping out , or adding the extra spring...initially it added 1.25" lift height , significantly more than the advertised 3/8"...I drove around with 350 lbs of sand bags in the bed for a while to help the springs...
2021 with the cast steel spindles, Went with the Icon mid travel 2.5 coilovers, APG Billet UCA"s and APG Billet tie rod ends with the FK bearing Heim joints
Good combination for no binding, on the truck adjustability and offroad capability
I have my alignments done at a shop that is across the street from a shop that specializes in truck suspension mods....the tech there says after 2.0" of lift or leveling, factory specs no longer apply......he does alignments on about a dozen per week that the custom shop sends his way, lifted...