Oddly enough the Ford Protect rates skyrocket if you choose any option with 150k miles or above, so even if the unit was bulletproof, reading between the lines 150–175k is when something major fails, otherwise the price wouldn’t be like $1,000 more when you go above the 150k mile option.
The tank is actually 20 gallons. I’ve run it to where I put 19.5 gallons in on pump cut off, and the truck still ran well on steep inclines, declines, and corners, indicating there was at least some gas in the tank.
Do I recommend it? No, but if towing and all you can find is a gas station 15...
For those on the fence, this is probably a good reason to get Ford Protect before the powertrain warranty is up. For the price of the plan, even a single 10R80 failure (or 2.3 EcoBoost head or cooling system issue) would be a wash with the price of the warranty.
I plan on driving mine to...
My dash gauge never fluctuates, it feels like as soon as the coolant is 100F or greater it swings to the center, and anywhere between say 100F to 230F it’s in the same spot. Can anyone confirm this or is my gauge broken?
Here’s what it looks like when it’s only been driven for 5 miles or 50 up...
So is there a software update that allows us to see info such as trans temp, coolant temp (in degrees), and things like oil pressure?
The stock gauges look like idiot gauges (coolant temp never moves, even when towing up a steep grade in 100F weather) whereas other trucks would fluctuate...
Finally did some digging and found that my blend date is 7/22/22 but build date is sometime in August 2022. The window sticker unfortunately was not kept in a safe place and adhesives from other truck PDI items ruined the sheet, so all I can confirm is August something 2022 was the final build...
Factory one would probably be your best bet. The after market ones usually decline any and all repairs due to “corrosion, pre-existing conditions, or wear and tear”.
Like aftermarket warranty + alternator goes out. “The brushes wore out too bad we can’t cover it”
Factory warranty +...
Also here is the most worn tire (right rear) which is factory original and still has a ton of tread left. So this truck has not been worked hard but it has been used for some towing and hauling.
Thanks for all the input, trying to gather some info as the dealer hasn’t given me much to work with
1- How do you find the build date? My door jamb sticker says 8/22
2- How to tell if fully rebuilt? Last invoice shows seals, bolts, gaskets, etc. but not sure if it was a full rebuild or just...
So I thought this would never happen because I have the revised transmission, but with only around 35k miles here’s what it did:
Started shifting roughly and slipping to 4K+ on upshifts
Hunted for gears going down a straight, flat road
Eventually got so hot trans fluid started coming out of...
Thanks! I also see on Amazon several adapters to get to the fill port, they say it’s “recommended for Ford applications”. Did anyone use these special right angle tools or is a flex hose (like aquarium hoses) good enough?
Had a new battery installed under warranty and I have been charging using a smart trickle charger (NOCO with intelligent battery state CPU) when the truck sat unused, the factory battery still died within a year and a half. Started throwing U codes and wouldn’t charge items like cell phones nor...
I’ve been doing oil analysis on my 2.3 and it’s showing higher than average wear metals + ticks on cold start, so I got the extended warranty.
Posts like yours are why I got the warranty.
Hope they get it back to 100% for you soon!
I have never seen more than MPG in the teens when towing my travel trailer, and that’s at 55mph. 65mph drops that significantly, and 70+ just destroys the MPG.
It helps if you take back roads but it takes longer to get there.
And highway (interstate) mpg would be likely in mid single digits...
Mine does it only when you have to suddenly stop like you’re getting cut off by an idiot that ran a stop sign. It does it so infrequently I’ve decided to not worry about it for now.
Driveshaft may be the culprit but I almost feel like it’s something to do with the brakes.
I think the stock tires are very good and would suggest sticking with them if you don’t want to replace all four.
Then maybe consider another set later down the road if the AT tires are too much for the road?
The BMS seems to under charge the battery over time, you can have a brand new battery and it will under charge, to the point where it will kill it within the warranty.
Good thing Costco and a few other places have good exchange policies. This truck seems to annihilate them every 2 years!
I had this happen to me enough times and sure enough, it was touching the right side of the foot on the gas pedal when braking. My truck did not display any messages or cut power.
Last time it happened in a parking lot with people around so I’m definitely not liking the closeness of the pedals...
Hey fellow forum folks,
I’m approaching 30k on my 2022 and want to change the trans fluid (due to all the people with trans failures giving me pause about keeping the fluid in for too long).
Should I let the engine pump the old fluid out, 1 quart a time, thru a trans cooler hose?
Drop the pan...
I just find it funny that companies like Google put those lights to show when the device is listening, as if it cannot “listen” when the light is off.
Then companies like Ring stating that they don’t use “facial recognition” on their devices but don’t say anything about “acoustic recognition”...