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Each switch has a light for the LED that you’ll have to wire together and connect to a switched power source, I used a splice in the marker light on the fender, but you could use an add-a-fuse in the cab, the owners manual should have a list of fuses and let you know which ones are switched...

For a light switch like that, it should be latching (I would call that on/off mean click on, click off). If you're having a custom switch made, why do you need it to be what that is? Wouldn't you just want to have it what you need? Not trying to be an ass, just trying to understand.

just looking at the type of switch that is, its got to be an on/off switch. CH4x4 made the switches I used, when I had the LightForce fascia on my Ranger. You can customize them to anything you want (text, images, momentary, on/off).

I have an Ender 3 V3 KE at home and a Elegoo Centauri Carbon on the way. Both are excellent machines and $300 or less.

I would be happy to but the cost of being a vendor on this forum is insane. I wonder if his pee pee was slapped for not paying to be a vendor. I have a second printer on the way and am about to start dabbling in ABS. And no, I won't do it via PM.

getting closer to having my first drawer organized.

I have seen a lot of requests for his plate and they appear to go unanswered, unless he's handling it all by DM, which is cool.

Nothing now. I reached out asking about his skids in 2021. I have the ARB skids now. Install was a pain, but they're stout as can be. I put them through the paces. I'm just chiming in, for no real reason. ha!

Looks like a good time! I considered those skid plates but... I'm still waiting to hear back on my inquiry from 2021.

Dirk designed these, and he seems to be gone. I thought about trying to take his place, until his return, but it would be $800 a year to be a vendor. I'd have to sell 16 a year at $50 just to break even on the fees here. Not including material cost.

Silver truck, white walls (finished because it has rooms above it). I'd love to paint it but... I haven't gotten that far. Black car, silver truck. Though the Subaru is outside.

I'm going to say this, only because my wife did a ton of research. You aren't supposed to put anything under car seats. They change the parameters of the seat base and don't always perform as designed. Now, do your own research (obviously) but I had no idea that was a thing. Its a warning...

I think you're SOL in CA... I don't know anyone but Ford who goes through the CARB requirements.

I bought mine through Stage 3 and it was significantly less than Ford.

Its one and done. I've got an expensive paper weight, for that reason. Ford Performance won't. I called and asked if I could pay a fee to unlock, they won't unlock it. I've heard of this working one time. Its a game where they get you for a lot of money and prevent you from recouping that...

10 is too low. lol. I’m … ok … with 16-17.

I hover around 16-17 these days. When I first fill up, I get 19-20, but it drops over the life of the tank. That's tuned or untuned, pretty consistent. Obviously, my truck is far from stock and I pull 500-600 miles per tank (LRA). I actually think I will get a jump in mileage when I move up...

If your speed is off, the odometer will be off too. Meaning each physical mile driven will read wrong on your truck.

I agree. But also, without your telemetry data, they still have millions of data points. I’m just saying, everything is futile.