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They look like the Yakima TopGrip tool holders.

Looks good, but don't forget to tie down the bow/stern lines - especially since your kayaks are biased rearward. If you can move them forward at all, I would highly recommend that. As it is, it appears that you're strapping down the rear point at the widest part of the kayak. There's nothing...

The problem with putting them in the bed is then you can't use a hitch bike rack. But depending on your tonneau situation, you could use a Yakima Bedrock style cross bar to put your bikes above your bed. Or you could probably strap your bikes in to the bed leaning to the sides and interfering...

I did my own setup for like $20 and an afternoon install. I did my writeup here. https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/in-bumper-led-lights.3583/#post-110676

Keep in mind, if you have any bars or anything above the bakflip, you won't be able to open the cover.

So just an update to this...I ended up buying the SweetRoll kayak rack in order to make loading and transporting the 'yaks easier. As I stated before, the main problem with the vertical stacker was that my wife isn't tall enough to lift it up on top of the truck, so they required me to...

The good news is that the truck is designed to protect itself in situations like that. Old vehicles used to monitor coolant temperature to determine overheating... and that didn't really work when there wasn't any coolant in the system, so you ended up frying your engine and whatnot. But your...

As others have said... the exhaust (and pretty much every other part as well) is a balance of a ton of things... Things I can think of for the Exhaust... 1) Piece Price Cost 2) Tooling Price Cost 3) Weight 4) Noise Levels 5) Back Pressure 6) Manufacturing feasibility (at scale) 7) Assembly...

So before the 'rona, I had my truck at the shop, and went over this with their tech. He didn't hear it until we took it for a drive together and pointed it out. We then drove one from the new car lot and we both were able to hear it, but very faintly, in that truck as well. Which has me...

I just wanted to share with you all a few pictures from my weekend adventure. Didn't get too far from home, but I've been working on this setup for awhile now, and it's the first time that it was (almost) fully loaded. Components: Ford OEM / Retrax Tonneau cover Yakima Overhaul w/ T slot...

So I added the Yakima eyelets to the four corners of my truck (I have the retrax tonneau cover with the T slot track) side rails, just as general tie down location. They give me an easy way to put a net over it all whenever I haul something that doesn't fit into the bed itself, or allows me to...

Haha, mine was the first at the oil change shop as well, except the tech didn't have quite the same reaction to the oil chute. There was quite a bit of cussing as he realized that it had drained a foot away and directly onto him and his sweatshirt.

Not a great picture since it's from the side not the rear, but I went with the 60'' bar. It's what comes in the Ford package, and matches what all of the brochures and stock Ford pictures have for spacing. I wish there was like a 64'' option, as there's only about 3 inches or so on either side...

Haha, I just realized, no.. I don't. At least I don't have any specifically for the lights, but here are some that are some for other purposes that show the lights.

I used these from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FXCHDFG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sorry, I didn't mean to get anyone's hopes up about forscan being able to adjust the volume. Just that you for sure wouldn't be able to do it without one.

You can turn it all off by pressing that little P button in the array of 6 buttons. I don't think you can adjust the volume (at least not without a forscan tool).

I was noticing this the other day for the first time as well. I was thinking it was emminating from the passenger front, so I was thinking wheel hub, but I know it's not always easy to trace the source of noise outside when you're inside, and I wouldn't be surprised at all to learn it was gear...

I used 10'' bars in the bumpers so I didn't cover the ACC radar. I was thinking it was going to blow air flow, but it really doesn't do that either. I suggest the 10'' because they're large enough to cover the entire opening - I started with a 7'' and it wasn't wide enough to look good...

Good thought there... The unit is like 10 years old. Thanks everyone though for confirming that it's not an issue with the Ranger windshield but rather an issue on my side of things.