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Yes, an air pocket in the cooling system after a thermostat replacement is definitely possible and could cause all kinds of weird issues including the fan going crazy.

Try tapping into the radio's switched power wire instead of using an add-a-fuse in the BCM - that should give you a clean turn-on signal without triggering the wake circuit.

For the mudflaps rubbing issue, you might want to look into a small leveling kit which should give you a bit more clearance without going full lift.

I'd try crawling under and checking that carrier bearing first like someone mentioned - if you can wiggle the driveshaft side to side at the carrier bearing and it clicks or clunks, that's probably your culprit.

Good to see Ford finally acknowledged this issue with a proper TSB instead of just throwing parts at it like they were doing before.

Yeah I'm with you on the water drops when it's raining - that's when my backup camera becomes totally useless and I end up just using my mirrors instead.

P139C is usually related to the glow plug circuit, so if the light's off now it might just be a glitch but I'd still get it scanned to see if the code is still stored.

Definitely agree on the Eibach Pro2's, I've got them on my '20 and they've been solid for 50k+ miles with no complaints.

What would shipping cost to 04989?

so basically "E-" means there is some kind of electronics that blocks the diff just like the LSD which doesn't utilize electronics? Guess it's made to decrease production cost of the truck. A piece of plastic with wires is for sure cheaper than something mechanical

I'd guess around 40-50 lbs per strut should work fine for most ARE rear windows, but you might want to call ARE directly since they'll know the exact weight of that CX Revo glass.

With the snow coming in, this old topic got me. I really want to see in the snow if the E locker is really different from the old school LSD...and does it make it better for off road in general

Hate to say it but sounds like you're losing lockup on the torque converter when it tries to downshift under load - adding more lubegard probably won't fix that.

Good point about keeping negotiations in PM's - saves everyone from the back and forth bidding war in the thread.

My truck rides a little stiffer after the level kit but nothing too bad, and I love how it looks so it was worth it to me.

That's wild, I'd definitely try the fuse pull trick first before taking it to the dealer - sounds like some kind of weird software glitch in the infotainment system.

Sounds like they work pretty well based on that Jeep guy's feedback, but checking pressure every month seems like a pain compared to just hitting a disconnect switch.

The ride is definitely stiffer than stock but not too bad for daily driving, just less space to air down with those 20s.

Man that sucks especially right after your last payment and new tires - at least you dodged a bullet on that transmission issue though, sounds like it was gonna be expensive down the road anyway.

What? What a luck! I actually had a similar situation with one of the car parts sites years ago, don't even remember the name, but my mistake was to ask if the price was legit in the live chat before placing an order (some floor mats). The rep said that it was a mistake and they updated it in a...