Wiring Issues, for what is is worth

Apples

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I have had my new Ranger for about 3 weeks. Everywhere I've searched, no one really had an easy way to locate a switched power source. Except that is, for "cutting into" existing wiring, which you don't want to do! Perhaps they didn't look hard enough, or ran into the same issue I did.

There are about a half dozen unused fuses, or so the manual indicates. At least 3 are switched. One of those is Cabin Fuse Block, position number 4, which has 5 amp fuse inserted. But there is a catch to piggybacking existing fuses.

Most auto parts stores sell fuse piggybacking units. They're nothing more (essentially) than a "Y" adapter with two fuse slots. However, since Ford's fuse slots are designed to be "tamper proof", these after market Y adapters won't fit into the fuse slots! But, all one needs to do, is use an Xacto knife to carefully remove the outer edge ridges molded into the Y adapter. Once shaved down, they fit well.

Nonetheless, you must be careful about how much you're drawing from any specific circuit. In my case, the dash cam draws about 100 mills maximum (fused at 250 mills). You could use the electric window circuit (30 amp with ATC fuse), if you need a bit more.

In any case, I wouldn't wire heavy draw loads, like say an amateur radio transceiver, as there are better ways to accomplish that specific goal.
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treimche

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I used a switched ignition wire in the driver's kick panel to trigger a 40 amp relay, which draws power directly from the battery, in order to power all my accessories. I connected it all to a fuse block that is hidden up under the driver's side dash. I have 10 slots for fuses to power additional accessories.
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Gizmokid2005

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Sparky

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I just installed twin dash cams — Installation took all of 5 minutes. To power I just plugged into one of the 12v sockets on the dash. Using Forscan I re-programmed the Power Point timer for 18 hours. I did a battery test overnight — Started off at 12.99v and at the end of 18 hours I had 12.49v. Perfect
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