Apples
Well-Known Member
- First Name
- Alan
- Joined
- Jun 14, 2020
- Threads
- 20
- Messages
- 687
- Reaction score
- 1,316
- Location
- Roswell, NM
- Vehicle(s)
- 2019 Ranger XLT
- Occupation
- Retired
- Thread starter
- #1
I have had my new Ranger for about 3 weeks. Everywhere I've searched, no one really had an easy way to locate a switched power source. Except that is, for "cutting into" existing wiring, which you don't want to do! Perhaps they didn't look hard enough, or ran into the same issue I did.
There are about a half dozen unused fuses, or so the manual indicates. At least 3 are switched. One of those is Cabin Fuse Block, position number 4, which has 5 amp fuse inserted. But there is a catch to piggybacking existing fuses.
Most auto parts stores sell fuse piggybacking units. They're nothing more (essentially) than a "Y" adapter with two fuse slots. However, since Ford's fuse slots are designed to be "tamper proof", these after market Y adapters won't fit into the fuse slots! But, all one needs to do, is use an Xacto knife to carefully remove the outer edge ridges molded into the Y adapter. Once shaved down, they fit well.
Nonetheless, you must be careful about how much you're drawing from any specific circuit. In my case, the dash cam draws about 100 mills maximum (fused at 250 mills). You could use the electric window circuit (30 amp with ATC fuse), if you need a bit more.
In any case, I wouldn't wire heavy draw loads, like say an amateur radio transceiver, as there are better ways to accomplish that specific goal.
There are about a half dozen unused fuses, or so the manual indicates. At least 3 are switched. One of those is Cabin Fuse Block, position number 4, which has 5 amp fuse inserted. But there is a catch to piggybacking existing fuses.
Most auto parts stores sell fuse piggybacking units. They're nothing more (essentially) than a "Y" adapter with two fuse slots. However, since Ford's fuse slots are designed to be "tamper proof", these after market Y adapters won't fit into the fuse slots! But, all one needs to do, is use an Xacto knife to carefully remove the outer edge ridges molded into the Y adapter. Once shaved down, they fit well.
Nonetheless, you must be careful about how much you're drawing from any specific circuit. In my case, the dash cam draws about 100 mills maximum (fused at 250 mills). You could use the electric window circuit (30 amp with ATC fuse), if you need a bit more.
In any case, I wouldn't wire heavy draw loads, like say an amateur radio transceiver, as there are better ways to accomplish that specific goal.
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