Wiring diagram for center console button panel: anyone have it?

jblc

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Does anyone have the wiring diagram (connector output) for the center console's button panel? I'm on sync3 (XLT).

I removed the button PCB to see if i can tap into the recirculation LED and button, to make a device to automatically "repress" (in electronics, not physically) when recirc is off, thereby keeping recirc on as long as the device is set to be active.

But, the button console's PCB is multilayered, and epoxy-coated, and so impossible to follow by hand.

The wiring diagram may help with this :) unless the outputs are just a communication bus...
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jblc

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Alternately, does anyone have a wiring manual for the dashboard, or know where i can find one? I could look through it to find that part...
 

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Here are the connector pinouts, the service manuals will not go any deeper. If you are looking for internal diagram of the FCIM and want to see the PCB circuit for that button, that is going to be vendor level and most likely proprietary and the Ford service manuals will not go that deep in detail. Without pulling mine apart to verify, I believe that the FCIM button panel and screen is an all-in-one unit. The attached connector pinouts are the same thing you see on the wiring diagram, just make it a little easier to follow.

Hope this helps
 

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jblc

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Thanks :) It does help. I had no idea that FCIM is on the same board -- or rather, the buttons are so tightly integrated.
Looking at the board, it's impossible to trace or connect to the switch pads, since everything is epoxy coated and also a multi-layer board.

I was able to find a very small connection point for the LED though (those wires are epoxied down well :) ). It was pretty risky: if I damage the board, who knows when i could get another due to the chip shortage.

So, at the moment I have a recirc output (0.5V), but not yet a way to trigger.
Also, I've not yet resistor or diode protected those wires, but it'll be important to do to not fry the board through static.
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It appears that the PCB that is still mounted is showing the front side of the Connectors, C2402 A/B and the little 2-wire connector on the PCB you are holding is most likely for the panel lighting.
Just be careful, that's a very expensive unit, around $700 from Ford.
 


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jblc

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The little 2-wire connector is the ~0.5V recirc LED output i added :), for detection.
This is the same PCB with C2402 A/B, just two sides of it and showing it mounted as well. They're all one PCB.
Yeah, it's costly -- but also could be hard to find a replacement if needed, hence being very cautious.

Not sure how else to approach this best, aside from this approach, given that overriding temp/humidity did not change anything at all in recirc behavior (for reasons mysterious to me, as mentioned in the post about that), even at night with no sunloading.
 

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Being that you said, it appears it is a timer based, then it is a programed event, so it will take some digging and research, I would suggest going into the F-150 Forscan spreadsheet, google it and look at APIM module, there is some settings for auto climate control, but however you would have to research the terminology on those settings to see which one of those will possibly be related to the recert door, now granted this is for the F-150 and hopefully cross over as far as programming the Ranger. It is a shot in the dark, but it just might be worth looking into, I think it is possible to disable the auto climate control, then it would hopefully include the recert door auto operation as well.
The F-150 spreadsheet gives basic information on the Hex Lines of codes, but nothing specific on what you are actually wanting to achieve. It's going to be trial and error.
 
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jblc

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I would suggest going into the F-150 Forscan spreadsheet, google it and look at APIM module, there is some settings for auto climate control,
This is a great idea worth at least checking -- thanks for the suggestion :)

It is a shot in the dark, but it just might be worth looking into, I think it is possible to disable the auto climate control, then it would hopefully include the recert door auto operation as well.
Unfortunately, i've looked into the settings angle a fair bit, and unless set to cold with AC, recirc will always turn off after 5 mins (no variation in time) on any other non-auto mode.

On a side note, I'm still very surprised that not only did the humidity and temp over-ride didn't work (which was surprising), but that it had zero impact (to the second) on recirc operation. It's actually a bit baffling.
 
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jblc

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Unfortunately, nothing in F150 APIM regarding recirc that i could find.
I'll look through the Ranger's settings a bit more deeply as well, just in case (though even less likely to yield any results)
 

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I think I have a solution, but since you have been messing with the system, give me your thoughts on this.

Now I know that Power is applied momentarily to either Pin 3 or Pin 7 to move the door, once the door reaches the commanded position, power is dropped, and the door will stay in that position with power off of it (held in position by the internal gears of the actuator)

If I am correct, depending on commanded position Open or Close, determines which wire is power and which is ground. (Pin 3 vs Pin 7)

The Feedback circuit (internal of FCIM) controls and applies the power to the specific wire, either to open or to close.

The Door will remain in the commanded position unpowered, until told to move,

So, if you cut pin 3 motor feed wire (Close Signal), and install a simple (Contact) switch, then you could have the switch,
Selected (and have a normal system) The wire you cut is now spliced back together.
Deselected: Create an open Circuit - (And if you have the Recirculation Door Closed) it will remain closed, since you have killed the ability for it to open (Removed Power Feed, to Close It) and you have (Removed the Ground-To Open it from the Power being applied by Pin 7, trying to drive it open)

You could use Pin 7 (wire as well), as long as you create an open on either wire, to stop the motor from moving.

This is a solution that would possibly work, now it will most likely generate faults when you are in (by-pass) mode, but the question is will the faults reset themselves when you go back to normal or will they remain as hard faults.

Being that you have already played with it, you may know if this will work or not, for me it looks like a very possible solution, but the codes IDK.

I really wish, the diagram would show what's going on inside the FCIM.
Please TEST, before you cut any wires and verify, this is correct.

Air Inlet Door.png
 
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jblc

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Now I know that Power is applied momentarily to either Pin 3 or Pin 7 to move the door,
I don't believe that's accurate based on the schematic. The schematic shows an actuator with a differential input to the motor. So 3 and 7 are + or - depending on direction (eg a servo drive output like an H-bridge), and both need to be active for it to move. The servo drive is inside FCIM, and the motor is just that -- without a driver.
Either wire open will cause the motor to freeze.
But I know what you're getting at :), so:

now it will most likely generate faults when you are in (by-pass) mode, but the question is will the faults reset themselves when you go back to normal or will they remain as hard faults.
Yeah, you're right on with the faults. Just to tie back in an earlier post i have in this thread here, about manually moving or disengaging the motor:

"Errors relative to the reference command trajectory lead to a FCIM accumulator register increase, and after a certain threshold (I think 600 of these events), an overall CEL error code.
So bypassing the motor will cause a discrepancy between the actual position, and commanded position.
Related to that, I think bypassing the position sensor (as a way around the above) might not work, because it still won't match there reference trajectory."

So, once recirc turns off, these errors will be written to the register, and will accumulate to a CEL. It might also impact other functionality, but the tech manual wasn't clear on that.

I really wish, the diagram would show what's going on inside the FCIM.
Same! :) I wonder who i'd need to bribe to get info on that :wink::p (j/k)
Or at the least the pinout of the main processor for the recirc input. That's the only missing part at this point.

And I still wonder why the humidity and temp over-ride had zero impact even at night (to the 1 second out of the 5 min recirc timer)
I wonder if someone was lazy and actually didn't program this in, or it was buggy and never worked, even though they claim it works based on temp/humidity. Completely baffling.
 

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I had some down time at work, thanks to the snow, I hoped on and found this description from a 2015 Ford Fusion. It has the same inlet door actuator.

Inlet Door Fusion.png


Sometimes you have to change up vehicles to get a better description, this is a little more detailed.
Now, addressing the FET faults, it will generate. a specific fault code for open circuit, but I do not know if the (FET) would count this into the history counts. The (FET) is primarily going to act for any shorts, so doing this by-pass will work with high probability, but how it handles it I don't know. Keep in mind though, so you fully understand, that if the (FET) takes action 600 times, it will brick the module and require replacement. So, at this point as far as wiring mods or sensor mods, for me it's a viable option, depending on the FET.

Now, if we can magically find the HEX Data for the system, it would be a big help. Might try digging through some of the other forums and Forscan, I am quite sure, somebody has bypassed the door and its operation, successfully.
 
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jblc

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Hope the snow wasn't too bad...

Sometimes you have to change up vehicles to get a better description, this is a little more detailed.
The Ranger manual said the same thing, regarding feedback positioning and such :), hence my having mentioned before that it's in a closed-loop position operation with +/- inputs to the motor (aside from the schematic showing that).
See "Air Handling section":
1674684880029.png


it will generate. a specific fault code for open circuit, but I do not know if the (FET) would count this into the history counts. The (FET) is primarily going to act for any shorts,
I see, you're right regarding the overcurrent events. I'll have to find where it said that it will generate an error if outside a tolerance for position following -- not just shorts and such.
I'm worried with this door override approach, because of this, as you also pointed out:
1674685560284.png


I worry, because other explicit statements made do not seem to be the case, such as:
1674685253001.png

which i've shown to be very clearly not occurring.

So I'm not sure I trust the behaviors they mention in the tech manual, and it would be terrible to brick the unit, esp when they're (a) costly and (b) probably take a long time to get due to chip shortage.

If i could trust the tech manual, then i'd be okay with trying...


Now, if we can magically find the HEX Data for the system, it would be a big help. Might try digging through some of the other forums and Forscan, I am quite sure, somebody has bypassed the door and its operation, successfully.
That's also a good idea :) I'll do some searches . Let me know if you happen to find anything as well!

1674685471833.png
 

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Another User just posted this video, thought you would like to view it as it shows the internals.

 

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Since this the latest post on the subject, I took a deeper look into the control side of the Air Inlet Actuator.
By description the Humidity Temp Sensor does control the Air Inlet door, but what it does not tell you is how the - Humidity Temp Sensor actually gets its information and other factors.

1. The Signal Return side of the Sensor (Humidity/Temp) - Pin -#5, is connected to:
a. Evap Temp Sensor
b. Drivers Footwell - Air Discharge Temp Sensor
c. Driver's Side - Register Air Discharge Temp Sensor
d. Signal Return Side - Pin # 6 - Air Inlet Door Actuator

What you do not actually see in the diagrams is 2 inputs, they are internal of the FCIM, and factored into the (Temp) signal reading and they are:

a. Sunload sensor, outputs it's information to the FCIM - for sun intensity reading, FCIM handles this internally. (Not exactly sure how) as it does not describe what it actually does with the information it receives or how it handles it

b. Ambient Air Temp - (Outside Air Temp), this information is received by the PCM and transmitted via Data Bus to the FCIM, this is mainly for control during (AC) modes as it wants to control moisture within the EVAP core. So again another factor that is handled internally of the FCIM

Now for the Humidity Temp Sensor Itself:
So as far as I can tell, the actual control (Door Position) relies on the return circuit as this is the voltage reading that is read by all sensors and factors. (Variable 5 Volts and the sum of the final return voltage of all inputs)

So to revisit this and I understand you correctly. Pinout at the Humidity Temp Sensor

Mostly, but not quite:
pin 1: sensor fan motor gnd
pin 2: temp sens resistance input (It's connected to pin 5/Gnd)
- Higher resistance = lower temp
- Lower resistance = higher temp
pin 3: +5V
pin 4: humidity reading
Higher Voltage = Higher Humidity
Lower Voltage = Lower Humidity
pin 5: Gnd (and thermistor resistance reference)
pin 6: sensor fan motor voltage

I understand all except Pin #2

The way I see it:
Temperature Side of the sensor - (Thermistor-Sensor)
This has to have a voltage comparison, to measure temperature.
So, the input voltage side is the (Before) is coming from Pin #5 and outputs the temp signal (by resistance) voltage to pin #2 and sends information to the FCIM.
If this is correct, then it ties to the FCIM actually controlling. the temperature side, and it does this from all of the Controlling Side from the FCIM (Inside Temp, Ambient Temp and Sunload sensors)
I think this is the missing factor, when you did your (Test)

Unfortunately, the manuals do not give detail on the inner workings of the FCIM, and what it does specifically with the inputs it receives.

or
Is there a 5-Volt Reference signal on Pin #2, with output going to Pin #5, tying in with the humidity sensor output return signal (Reference Voltage)
as the wiring diagrams do not depict this clearly

I am trying to understand how the FCIM gets a temperature reading from that sensor.


Humidity Side of the sensor: (Capacitance Sensor)
Has a 5-Volt Ref signal on Pin # 3
Pin #4 - Output Signal (informational) of humidity reading from fan blowing across the sensor to the FCIM
Pin #5 - Is the reduced (variable) voltage reading on the signal return side

So, basically with the Humidity / Temp sensor disconnected, when key is on , is Pin #2 dead or is there a voltage signal on it
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