Windshield Washer Fluid Flush

Ranger #6

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I just flushed the factory windshield fluid in order to replace it with a supposedly paint-friendly solution. According to the service manual (Section 501-16), accessing the drain plug requires removal of the RF wheel and fender splash shield. In lieu of that craziness, I opted for the obvious brute-force method (details below).

Note:
- The best time to perform a windshield washer flush is while it is raining; this will help rinse washer fluid over-spray from the truck.
- The washer will time out after 10 seconds; cycling the washer for 5 seconds at a time (5 seconds on, 5 seconds off) is recommended to avoid overheating of the pump.

Flush Procedure:
1. Start truck and turn the radio off.
2. Activate the windshield washer and listen for the pitch of the pump to increase (high pitch indicates an empty, or nearly empty, tank). IMMEDIATELY after noticing the pitch increase, release the windshield washer control. Caution: Prolonged activation of the windshield washer after the tank is empty will damage the pump.
3. Fill tank with clear water. Be sure to lower the hood; otherwise, washer fluid will not fully cover the windshield, possibly causing damage to the wipers or windshield.
4. Repeat Steps 2 and 3 until the washers spray clear water.
5. Fill tank with desired solution.


I replaced the factory fill (likely contains methanol) with "303 Instant Windshield Washer". A 25-tablet tube ($9.99) is available online from various sources. One tablet makes an entire gallon; tank capacity is 1 gal. Simply dropping the tablet into the windshield washer tank is not recommended. It's best to first dissolve the tablet in a 1-gallon jug and let it dissolve fully prior to adding the washer solution to the tank. Tap water down here in Marietta is extremely hard; water spotting is a major concern. Distilled water is recommended (about $1/gal.) for areas that have hard water.

Caution: The "303" washer tablets get generally good reviews on Amazon (currently a 90% 4- or 5-star rating). However, the less-than-4-star reviews complained of a residue left on windshield outside the wiper zone. Others complained about clogged jets, but I think they probably didn't mix the solution well enough prior to filling the tank. Assuming a properly mixed solution, I can see how prolonged non-use might cause clogged jets, so I plan on using the washer every few days. I'll also monitor for any ill effects (oh, I hope not) on the paint. I'll update this post with any findings (good or bad).
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fusseli

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I absolutely hate the film that RainX wiper fluid leaves behind, and the wax buildup on the wipers ruins them faster too.

I've done the math on the 303 tablets to try to make it work. Using distilled water and isopropyl alcohol to get the freeze point down, comes in over $2 a gallon. Better bet is to buy Supertech blue from Walmart. If you dont need freeze protection it's very easy to just do a 303 tablet in a gallon of distilled water. I am keeping my mind open for cheaper alternatives to the alcohol, anyone know where to get it as cheap as possible? $2.5 a quart is what I have so far, unsure if denatured is as safe as isopropyl.
 

CoastieN70

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I absolutely hate the film that RainX wiper fluid leaves behind, and the wax buildup on the wipers ruins them faster too.

I've done the math on the 303 tablets to try to make it work. Using distilled water and isopropyl alcohol to get the freeze point down, comes in over $2 a gallon. Better bet is to buy Supertech blue from Walmart. If you dont need freeze protection it's very easy to just do a 303 tablet in a gallon of distilled water. I am keeping my mind open for cheaper alternatives to the alcohol, anyone know where to get it as cheap as possible? $2.5 a quart is what I have so far, unsure if denatured is as safe as isopropyl.
Denatured alcohol can be quite harsh on paint...

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denatured_alcohol
 

fusseli

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P. A. Schilke

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I just flushed the factory windshield fluid in order to replace it with a supposedly paint-friendly solution. According to the service manual (Section 501-16), accessing the drain plug requires removal of the RF wheel and fender splash shield. In lieu of that craziness, I opted for the obvious brute-force method (details below).

Note:
- The best time to perform a windshield washer flush is while it is raining; this will help rinse washer fluid over-spray from the truck.
- The washer will time out after 10 seconds; cycling the washer for 5 seconds at a time (5 seconds on, 5 seconds off) is recommended to avoid overheating of the pump.

Flush Procedure:
1. Start truck and turn the radio off.
2. Activate the windshield washer and listen for the pitch of the pump to increase (high pitch indicates an empty, or nearly empty, tank). IMMEDIATELY after noticing the pitch increase, release the windshield washer control. Caution: Prolonged activation of the windshield washer after the tank is empty will damage the pump.
3. Fill tank with clear water. Be sure to lower the hood; otherwise, washer fluid will not fully cover the windshield, possibly causing damage to the wipers or windshield.
4. Repeat Steps 2 and 3 until the washers spray clear water.
5. Fill tank with desired solution.


I replaced the factory fill (likely contains methanol) with "303 Instant Windshield Washer". A 25-tablet tube ($9.99) is available online from various sources. One tablet makes an entire gallon; tank capacity is 1 gal. Simply dropping the tablet into the windshield washer tank is not recommended. It's best to first dissolve the tablet in a 1-gallon jug and let it dissolve fully prior to adding the washer solution to the tank. Tap water down here in Marietta is extremely hard; water spotting is a major concern. Distilled water is recommended (about $1/gal.) for areas that have hard water.

Caution: The "303" washer tablets get generally good reviews on Amazon (currently a 90% 4- or 5-star rating). However, the less-than-4-star reviews complained of a residue left on windshield outside the wiper zone. Others complained about clogged jets, but I think they probably didn't mix the solution well enough prior to filling the tank. Assuming a properly mixed solution, I can see how prolonged non-use might cause clogged jets, so I plan on using the washer every few days. I'll also monitor for any ill effects (oh, I hope not) on the paint. I'll update this post with any findings (good or bad).

Hi Folks,

You are picking fly$hit out of the pepper wrt to washer fluid. Do not malign Ford for installing an initial fill of fluid that meets Ford specs. It is delivered to the assembly plant in tankers the size of gasoline delivery Trucks. Use what ever works for you. I use Walmart...works well and does what it is supposed to do...clean the windshield and it is cost effective. I will say that I have never been a fan of RainX, but that is my opinion only.

Best,
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retied
 


fusseli

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Hi Folks,

You are picking fly$hit out of the pepper wrt to washer fluid. Do not malign Ford for installing an initial fill of fluid that meets Ford specs. It is delivered to the assembly plant in tankers the size of gasoline delivery Trucks. Use what ever works for you. I use Walmart...works well and does what it is supposed to do...clean the windshield and it is cost effective. I will say that I have never been a fan of RainX, but that is my opinion only.

Best,
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retied
I don't disagree! But where can us common folk get the same stuff Ford uses? I am simply trying to minimize cost and avoid the wax additives in the RainX and Prestone. One could argue the 303 tablets have more "soap" than the average blue water jug, maybe more like the green "bug wash" gimmick jugs. The challenge is the freeze protection. Even the cheaper Peak and Supertech still range 2 to 5 bucks a gallon depending on where. The summer stuff with no freeze protection is a blue water scam, I'm convinced.
 

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50 years of cheap blue washer fluid , and no damage or frozen fluid in the tank so far.
It will freeze on a cold windshield if its below 0°F though.
I've tried a lot of alternatives, mostly disappointing.
If there is something which protects the paint better, surely it can wait until you run out at least once without damage.
 

beetlespin

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I love the RainX stuff. The rain just flies off the windshield, almost don't need the wipers. Also keeps the windshield super clean.
 
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Ranger #6

Ranger #6

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You are picking fly$hit out of the pepper wrt to washer fluid. Really? How so? Alcohol, in any form, is not kind to paint. Over here in GA, during our short winters, the daily high temp frequently reaches into the 60s. There's no reason whatsoever to keep alcohol-based windshield wiper fluid in the tank. I do keep a bottle of "below-32" fluid here (especially for the RAV4, which is relegated to the driveway) in case temps are forecast to drop into the 20s for more than a day or two. To the best of my knowledge, I've never had a windshield-washer tank freeze. Do not malign Ford for installing an initial fill of fluid that meets Ford specs. OK, how was Ford "maligned" by the post? The WSS-M14P19-A spec is probably very similar to the corresponding specs of other major manufacturers. The Motorcraft fluid (Ford Part # ZC-32-B2) contains some form of antifreeze because it's rated for the low -20's. The same can be said for initial fluid fills provided by all automotive manufacturers. Ford is not special in this regard.

It's just windshield washer fluid (that can damage your paint).
 

t4thfavor

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Blue stuff that is 50% water 50% methanol is fine (for me), I'm not showing the truck, and 90% of the time it's covered in brown dirt from the dirt roads I live on.

I've used it in Water/Meth injection too. Beats the crap out of 20$/gallon boost juice, you just have to make sure you find the stuff with methanol (usually labeled -40F).
 

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50 years of cheap blue washer fluid , and no damage or frozen fluid in the tank so far.
It will freeze on a cold windshield if its below 0°F though.
I've tried a lot of alternatives, mostly disappointing.
If there is something which protects the paint better, surely it can wait until you run out at least once without damage.
yup.
and the thought of flushing the WW fluid? never crossed my mind. didnt realize it was a thing
 

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My last truck was a 2011 F150 4x4. 165,000 miles. No paint left on either side of the windshield and the paint was coming off where the roof met the windshield. 80% highway, 20% off road driving. Everyone would ask me what the heck is happening to the paint. I was always, not sure. Now I'm wondering if windshield fluid was the culprit. Always serviced the truck at a Ford dealer so they would have filled the reservoir tank. In between services I would top off with whatever fluid was handy. The truck was a company vehicle so I never put much into the paint problem.
 
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Ranger #6

Ranger #6

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I guess if flushing is a thing, and regular use isn't fast enough to run through to an empty tank to change fluid types, then I would get one of these and make it an easy job, instead of a step by step conundrum that doesn't seem efficient.

download.jpg
Explain how you would flush the tank with that thing. In the time it would take to find the tool, set it up, get a bucket to hold the excess and suck the fluid out, I could have the tank emptied and working on the first flush cycle with tap water, all the while, sitting in an air-conditioned truck listening to the Finale of Shostakovich's Fifth Symphony on the B&O.

One more tool to hang on the wall, unused for most of a year? Nope!
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