Window Seal Fit

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rdgallo

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Hi Ron,

Checked and my seals are still nice and strait. What I did was force the vertical strip down as well as push the bulge in,,,This forced the end that goes below the bottom seal to travel downward just a tad. Seems to work for me. Both sides are still good.

Just use your thumb and pull the seal in a downward manor starting at the top and work your thumb all the way to the lower glass seal. Might work for you too.

Looks like the manufacturer that makes the molded seal has a bit of a quality issue

You can write the Plant Vehicle Team Manager at:
38303 Michigan Ave.
Wayne, Mi 48184
Phone 734-467-0500

Phone call is unlikely to get you anywhere, but try if you like to get to the PVT Engineering

Best,
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retired
Thanks for the information, Phil. I will try your technique on the seal and report back. One other unrelated question, Phil....are the doors adjustable at all? I have a lot of road noise coming from the passenger side of the truck. The driver's side is quiet, but the passenger side sounds like the doors are not shut tightly. I spent a lot of time looking them over today in an effort to find a difference between the quiet side and the noisy side and did not find anything obvious. I did notice that the driver's side rear door "pops" open when I pull the handle to open it and the noisy side opens without a "pop" like it is not as tightly closed. I really thought something was wrong with the tight side, but because it is quiet, think it might be better than the other side. If I should post this problem as a separate thread, please let me know and I will. Thanks in advance!
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P. A. Schilke

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Thanks for the information, Phil. I will try your technique on the seal and report back. One other unrelated question, Phil....are the doors adjustable at all? I have a lot of road noise coming from the passenger side of the truck. The driver's side is quiet, but the passenger side sounds like the doors are not shut tightly. I spent a lot of time looking them over today in an effort to find a difference between the quiet side and the noisy side and did not find anything obvious. I did notice that the driver's side rear door "pops" open when I pull the handle to open it and the noisy side opens without a "pop" like it is not as tightly closed. I really thought something was wrong with the tight side, but because it is quiet, think it might be better than the other side. If I should post this problem as a separate thread, please let me know and I will. Thanks in advance!
Hi Ron,

There is ajustability in the doors, both the hinge side and the latch striker. Adjustments should be based on understand on the source of the noise. In other threads I recommend using a mechanics stethoscope with the plastic diaphram and the steel probe removed. the ear piece and the single tube to which the stethoscope diaphragm was attached makes a very directional tool to analyze door leakage or other possible noise sources

Have someone drive the vehicle in the range of speed where you hear the noise...then search the doors with the end of the tube...the source of the leak will become evident. Then try the back doors and repeat. If it is a sealing and adjustment issue, best to take it back to the dealer with the info you gained from the "development" you found. The mechanic stethoscope is very cheap and available at any automotive parts store. I do not have the link to the thread where my wife discovered the door leak on our RV. The whistle of the door leak almost blew out her ear drums after she learned how to search with the end of the tube. I had resources of tens of thousands of sophisticated sound equipment but in the field the lowly cheap mechanics stethoscope worked more quickly to find wind noise leaks.

stethoscope.jpg


Best.
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retired
 
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rdgallo

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Hi Ron,

There is ajustability in the doors, both the hinge side and the latch striker. Adjustments should be based on understand on the source of the noise. In other threads I recommend using a mechanics stethoscope with the plastic diaphram and the steel probe removed. the ear piece and the single tube to which the stethoscope diaphragm was attached makes a very directional tool to analyze door leakage or other possible noise sources

Have someone drive the vehicle in the range of speed where you hear the noise...then search the doors with the end of the tube...the source of the leak will become evident. Then try the back doors and repeat. If it is a sealing and adjustment issue, best to take it back to the dealer with the info you gained from the "development" you found. The mechanic stethoscope is very cheap and available at any automotive parts store. I do not have the link to the thread where my wife discovered the door leak on our RV. The whistle of the door leak almost blew out her ear drums after she learned how to search with the end of the tube. I had resources of tens of thousands of sophisticated sound equipment but in the field the lowly cheap mechanics stethoscope worked more quickly to find wind noise leaks.

stethoscope.jpg


Best.
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retired
Thanks, Phil. I have read your posts about using the stethoscope and as a matter of fact, I purchased one from Amazon. The darned thing had such a strong spring to hold the ear pieces in my ears that it actually was painful to use. I sent it back for a refund. Looks like I better go purchase a new one. Thanks again for your help. By the way, I tried to work the window seal down as you suggested and I guess I am not strong enough. I couldn't get it to move.
 

P. A. Schilke

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Thanks, Phil. I have read your posts about using the stethoscope and as a matter of fact, I purchased one from Amazon. The darned thing had such a strong spring to hold the ear pieces in my ears that it actually was painful to use. I sent it back for a refund. Looks like I better go purchase a new one. Thanks again for your help. By the way, I tried to work the window seal down as you suggested and I guess I am not strong enough. I couldn't get it to move.
Hi Ron,

Take a plastic putty knife or a plastic trim tool and slide it down the seal to "free" it up...then try again. Do both sides if you can. This rubber can stick when baked in the sun... I hope this helps. Sad that you have to do this, but it appears assembly workers just slap the seal onto the door and call it installed. How this missis the Quality inspections is beyond me. I had to attend Ranger Plat Quality Audits when at the plant and I was amazed at the things they flagged. I thought most were like picking fly shit out of the pepper....

best,
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retired
 

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I tried and was able to work the rubber down like you suggested but the bulge is still there. I'm gonna shove some gorilla snot in those spots and see if I can get them to settle.
 


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rdgallo

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Hi Ron,

Take a plastic putty knife or a plastic trim tool and slide it down the seal to "free" it up...then try again. Do both sides if you can. This rubber can stick when baked in the sun... I hope this helps. Sad that you have to do this, but it appears assembly workers just slap the seal onto the door and call it installed. How this missis the Quality inspections is beyond me. I had to attend Ranger Plat Quality Audits when at the plant and I was amazed at the things they flagged. I thought most were like picking fly shit out of the pepper....

best,
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retired
Thank you, Phil. I also don't know how this type of defect can go undetected at the factory. It is pretty obvious. One of the trucks I checked out at the dealer was a white one, and this really looks bad on it as the white shows in the area the seal should have covered. An assembler would have to be blind or brain dead not to notice it.
 

NickTheEnforcer

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I had the same problem on mine but on the drivers rear door, it also appeared like it just needed to be reseated. It would not though, my neighbor who has never owned a new car in his live wanted to goop it up with weatherstrip glue..which is a noble pursuit to solve someone elses problem [the manufacturers]. Since I had only had it at that point a couple of weeks I brought it back to the stealership's service center and after they ordered the weatherstrip it took 20 minutes to replace at no charge. Maybe my neighbor's method would have worked but if not they would have blamed it on me.
I have noticed a lot of flaws and tolerance issues on many makes of vehicles fit & finish lately. My wife's 2020 escape has an interior a-pillar firment issue where the plastic trim meets the headliner on both sides. It looks like it is also not seated properly. You can see the edge quite a bit where it is not covered by the rubber trim. This is unacceptable. She has an appointment tomorrow.
 
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rdgallo

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I had the same problem on mine but on the drivers rear door, it also appeared like it just needed to be reseated. It would not though, my neighbor who has never owned a new car in his live wanted to goop it up with weatherstrip glue..which is a noble pursuit to solve someone elses problem [the manufacturers]. Since I had only had it at that point a couple of weeks I brought it back to the stealership's service center and after they ordered the weatherstrip it took 20 minutes to replace at no charge. Maybe my neighbor's method would have worked but if not they would have blamed it on me.
I have noticed a lot of flaws and tolerance issues on many makes of vehicles fit & finish lately. My wife's 2020 escape has an interior a-pillar firment issue where the plastic trim meets the headliner on both sides. It looks like it is also not seated properly. You can see the edge quite a bit where it is not covered by the rubber trim. This is unacceptable. She has an appointment tomorrow.
Thanks for sharing your info. Did the new seal fit correctly and remain that way? Thanks!
 

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RingoGR

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Attached is a photo of the poor fit of the window seal on the front passenger door window. The Driver's side looks the same. It looks like the vertical leg of the seal is too long for the opening on the door. I was going to complain about it to my dealer, but after looking at every Ranger they had decided it would be fruitless as all the trucks in stock look the same as mine. If the dealer would replace the seal with a new one, I would expect it to not fit correctly too. Anyway, I thought I would put this out there to see how many of you have noticed the poor fit. I am a bit disappointed in the overall quality of this truck...lousy fitting leather seat covers, the upright of the back seat will not latch (until I installed washers under the clasp), transmission shutter when accelerating, excessive wind/road noise, etc. I came from a 2013 F150 Lariat and thought the Ranger would be put together as well as the F150...not so (at least in my case). I know the F150 is more expensive, but for the price of this Ranger, I expected better quality than what I received.
IMG_2881D.jpeg
IMG_2881D.jpeg
THIS MAY SOUND WEIRD BUT MAYBE IT IS A SHRINK ISSUE AS I KNOW MANY OTHER CARS I OWN OVER TIME IN SOUTHERN KALIFORNIA GET FRIED IN THE SUN AND THESE RUBBER ITEMS SHRINK/ TEAR/SPLIT, I KNOW THE LEXUS I HAVE HAS DONE THIS ALONG WITH THE KIA MY KID HAS.
 

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I have yet to get mine to the dealer. I did ask how long the truck would be at the dealer for the two wetherstrips to be replaced. I was told all day since the door has to be taken apart for the replacement. Funny Nick says it took his dealer 20 min.
 

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I have yet to get mine to the dealer. I did ask how long the truck would be at the dealer for the two wetherstrips to be replaced. I was told all day since the door has to be taken apart for the replacement. Funny Nick says it took his dealer 20 min.
I asked my guy if they had a loaner b/c I fully expected it to be an all-day drop thing. He laughed and said 1/2 hour max...granted I was the 1st guy there on that day but no way they had to take the door apart in that amount of time, I dont care how good a tech he was...
Been pretty happy with the minor amount of service they have done so far. We will see when my wife takes her new '20 escape in this afternoon with the a-pillar int. trim problem.
 

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THIS MAY SOUND WEIRD BUT MAYBE IT IS A SHRINK ISSUE AS I KNOW MANY OTHER CARS I OWN OVER TIME IN SOUTHERN KALIFORNIA GET FRIED IN THE SUN AND THESE RUBBER ITEMS SHRINK/ TEAR/SPLIT, I KNOW THE LEXUS I HAVE HAS DONE THIS ALONG WITH THE KIA MY KID HAS.
Similar to how my r/r looked, only worse. sorry it was last year and I didn't save any pix.
 

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I asked my guy if they had a loaner b/c I fully expected it to be an all-day drop thing. He laughed and said 1/2 hour max...granted I was the 1st guy there on that day but no way they had to take the door apart in that amount of time, I dont care how good a tech he was...
Been pretty happy with the minor amount of service they have done so far. We will see when my wife takes her new '20 escape in this afternoon with the a-pillar int. trim problem.
million dollar question , why would they take door apart for seal replacement ?
 

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I just checked mine. Mine look perfect. No bulge (that's what she said).
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