will this support the juice i need??

[9zero1790]

Relays are rated for twice their load to prevent arching, and fuses 10% above working load, but still, that would be 100Amps!!!! (can you say overkill!) twice the 600 watts stated. I hope they give you a spec sheet, but in any case it should handle your lights no problem. Be interesting to see what gauge the B+ wire is.

just got the item from the mail. opened it up and it seems decent. one thing surprised me, the main power for battery i expected at least a 10 gauge wire. its all loomed up and covered and "looks" like a hefty wire. However, it is not lol. I cut back some of the looming to give it a look and they took each individual circuits power wire (14 gauge i think) and ran them out together and crimped them all together with a lug on the end... so it looks like a hefty power wire going from the battery to the box but its really just an organized bunch. I dont see why that would not work but it did surprise me. I guess its cheaper for them and easier. to be a little safer i may remove the fuses it came with and put in some lower ones. they put one 30 and 5 20s. I may do one 20 and the rest 10.

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[JesseS]

just got the item from the mail. opened it up and it seems decent. one thing surprised me, the main power for battery i expected at least a 10 gauge wire. its all loomed up and covered and "looks" like a hefty wire. However, it is not lol. I cut back some of the looming to give it a look and they took each individual circuits power wire (14 gauge i think) and ran them out together and crimped them all together with a lug on the end... so it looks like a hefty power wire going from the battery to the box but its really just an organized bunch. I dont see why that would not work but it did surprise me. I guess its cheaper for them and easier. to be a little safer i may remove the fuses it came with and put in some lower ones. they put one 30 and 5 20s. I may do one 20 and the rest 10.

If 10 amps is enough for your individual circuits then that will work. Reserve the 20 for the highest draw circuit.

 

[Cabose-1]

shamelessly adding some sex appeal so i can get some views and feedback lol

Um what?? Yeah sure, it will work, yeah, what are we talking about??

 

[9zero1790]

If 10 amps is enough for your individual circuits then that will work. Reserve the 20 for the highest draw circuit.

thank you !

 

[9zero1790]

Um what?? Yeah sure, it will work, yeah, what are we talking about??

i bet in real life she was like "umm eww this old truck is dirty and rusty.... " notice the blanket she is sitting on as not to get dirty from the truck.
shame.

 

[Trigganometry]

Word of warning on wire size. Although your setup might work the lesser gauge wire used it does acts like a resistor. It chokes the current flow at high amperage. You can always swap out the positive and negative feed wires from frame and battery to help with this. Also the shorter the runs the better on that too. 8 gauge with high strand count would be the best bet to start. Heaver gauge if you can find it for the right price. Then dissect your box and swap them out. If soldered in then use solder that’s 60/40 and stay away from the lead free stuff.

 

[JesseS]

Word of warning on wire size. Although your setup might work the lesser gauge wire used it does acts like a resistor. It chokes the current flow at high amperage. You can always swap out the positive and negative feed wires from frame and battery to help with this. Also the shorter the runs the better on that too. 8 gauge with high strand count would be the best bet to start. Heaver gauge if you can find it for the right price. Then dissect your box and swap them out. If soldered in then use solder that’s 60/40 and stay away from the lead free stuff.

As he stated the individual leads were 14 Ga he should be fine with 10A or less draw, if lengthening the leads stay with the same gauge, nothing in the truck is far enough away to increase the resistance above the insulation rating if fused properly.

 

[9zero1790]

Word of warning on wire size. Although your setup might work the lesser gauge wire used it does acts like a resistor. It chokes the current flow at high amperage. You can always swap out the positive and negative feed wires from frame and battery to help with this. Also the shorter the runs the better on that too. 8 gauge with high strand count would be the best bet to start. Heaver gauge if you can find it for the right price. Then dissect your box and swap them out. If soldered in then use solder that’s 60/40 and stay away from the lead free stuff.

not a bad idea, idk if im up to doing the task, it looks like a spaghetti bowl inside the box lol.

 

[9zero1790]

As he stated the individual leads were 14 Ga he should be fine with 10A or less draw, if lengthening the leads stay with the same gauge, nothing in the truck is far enough away to increase the resistance above the insulation rating if fused properly.

thank you ! you guys are full of good info.

 

[9zero1790]

its not this bad

 

[egilbe]

its not this bad

No joke, but I came back from a two week vacation to three huge moving boxes of wires and cables that looked just like this. It was after the bank I worked at had moved their ops center over Labor day weekend. While I was on vacation, there was no one to sort through all the cabling and get rid of everything they didn't need. My boss couldn't part with anything that may be related to networking, but he also didn't have the time to sort through it all so he expected me to do it when I came back. I wheeled it all into the dumpster and tossed it in. If we needed a particular cable, it was cheaper to order it than pay me to spend weeks untangling that mess.

He was not happy, but I was. I think there was one or two cables in the next two years that we actually needed that I may have tossed. Hell, that could be one of the pictures I took.

 

[JesseS]

its not this bad

Man! that looks like the wiring under the bed in my motor home!!

 

[Cabose-1]

There was a blanket?

 

[9zero1790]

one of the metal yards near me will take wire for scrap copper. i hate to toss any away. but if it is not bare wire they cut down the pay out.

 

[Danager]

The several thinner runs are likely individually terminated at each fuse, then out from the fuse to each relay. If this is the case, you are just fine. This makes the layout and manufacturing less expensive. No need to design-in/around a buss bar or other distribution block inside the unit. Curious if they used CCA - copper clad aluminum, or OFC - oxygen-free copper. For both, the shortest length is best.

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