Where to run power and speaker connections for Kicker Hideaway speaker

[fusseli]

@DriverA thanks for the detailed write-up. Looks really good. Glad to hear the Powebass speakers sound good. I don't know why, but I was worried about the quality and sound from them would not be much better than OEM. Maybe it's because they do not seem like a flashy name brand ?

I checked out the "new" Kicker Key200.4 and it seems like the same as the 180.4 except for 20 extra watts, which probably is not noticeable. Plugnplaykits is still selling the 180.4 and said they are the same other than the new one cost more. Any thoughts on that? I think I could wire up a kit like he is selling myself since I think I have all the tools, but something to be said for being plug and play.

THanks!

The plainest looking woofer could be the best engineered and best sounding. Looks really mean nothing. Especially for car audio gear that is a market aimed at flashy looks and huge price markups.

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[theanswer3]

Finally able to followup.

First, I did not pay any extra customs charges for the Aussie under seat box I bought off ebay.

The Kicker Key 180.4 has been replaced with a new designation the Kicker Key 200.4
It fits nicely above the glove box, tucked away inside the dash. There is a steel bar, with holes that match up perfect for mounting the small amp with the help of a small peice of wood.

The door speakers and tweeters, I replaced with PowerBass OE65C-FD components for the front doors, and the PowerBass OE652-FD 2-way for the rear doors. They are direct factory replacements, though I did have to add cutomized (cut to fit) Stinger Roadkill RKFR6 FAST Rings to fill some space between the rear door panels and the speakers. I also had to use a step bit to drill 2 holes for the rear door speaker wires to pass through. A little touch up paint, and a couple rubber grommets and it looks like it came that way from the factory.

The sub amp is a Rockford Fosgate Punch P300X1 300w single channel aplifier. For mounting the amp, I pulled back the carpet and gorilla glued a peice of 3/8 plywood to the rear cab. Once that dried, I put the carpet back in place and used some short stainless screws to mount the amp.

For the sub, I ended up going with a Kicker CompVR 43CVR102, the rubber bezle around the magnet had to be removed in order to fit inside the sub box. I did also line the inside of the sub usning spray glue with 2 layers of Poly Fil Extra Loft Quilt Batting.

The bass knob fits nicely in the fuse panel, where it does not get in the way at all.

With the seat closed and locked into position, you would never know any of it is there until you turn up the volume. It's not going to rattle anyone's windows, but it is well more than enough for you to feel the bass.

I will end up re-carpeting the sub box as I am not very pleased with the quality of the covering itself.

Enough said, now for some pics.

Looks good. How do you like the sound of the powerbass speakers?

 

[DriverA]

Looks good. How do you like the sound of the powerbass speakers?

I am pretty happy with them overall. Range is just as good as factory. Considering I was happy with everything but the volume. The amp is only pushing 40w per channel, and they are rated for 60w. Overall, I think it is a good match for the 300w sub setup. If wanted my ears to bleed I would have to cut the factory wires, or run dedicated leads to run more power and higher rated speakers. However, I find it plenty loud enough for my adult self. At 30 max, the sound meter on my phone shows 98.2 db. I run it 25 to 27 most times and my ears do not ring when I get out of the truck.

 

[DriverA]

@DriverA thanks for the detailed write-up. Looks really good. Glad to hear the Powebass speakers sound good. I don't know why, but I was worried about the quality and sound from them would not be much better than OEM. Maybe it's because they do not seem like a flashy name brand ?

I checked out the "new" Kicker Key200.4 and it seems like the same as the 180.4 except for 20 extra watts, which probably is not noticeable. Plugnplaykits is still selling the 180.4 and said they are the same other than the new one cost more. Any thoughts on that? I think I could wire up a kit like he is selling myself since I think I have all the tools, but something to be said for being plug and play.

THanks!

I got the same thing from Joe @ plugnplaykits .. he told me it was just a re-branding of the same amp. I do notice Kicker does not tout it on their site, but Best Buy still sells it but not the 200.4. I am not sure if the 200.4 is a different animal all together or a re-rating of the same amp. Either way, I'm not sure I would notice the 5 watts per channel difference.

 

[deeve]

I got the same thing from Joe @ plugnplaykits .. he told me it was just a re-branding of the same amp. I do notice Kicker does not tout it on their site, but Best Buy still sells it but not the 200.4. I am not sure if the 200.4 is a different animal all together or a re-rating of the same amp. Either way, I'm not sure I would notice the 5 watts per channel difference.

I agree on not noticing 5w. The specs look to be the same otherwise. Probably turned a potentiometer up 1/4 turn to get the extra 5 watts out of it and slapped a new number on there. I’m sure Joe knows what he is talking about.

 

[brockdog12]

I was able to run my power wire tonight for my subwoofer. Went through the grommet on the drivers side firewall with the wiring and hood release. Was able to get the tip of an exacto blade to make small cuts and then used a fiberglass rod from the kids old kite to get into the cab. Had my boy pull the rod, I taped the wire to it and greased it up with some silicone grease I have. Everything went through easily. I’ll finish the install when I can. Running the power wire is half the battle.

 

[brockdog12]

Subwoofer install completed. Tapped rear audio for signal trigger below the left and right rear sill plates. Placed the subwoofer behind the drivers side of the back seat, had it stood on end at first, due to space, but all sound was going into the seat back and not being heard. Was able to rotate it 45 degrees and that allowed a nice space around most of the entire cabinet. Sound quality vastly improved and sounds like it did when I had it in my F150. I have zero engine noise or any other fake noises, just bass. Very please with the results. I did break some trim clips on the sill plates, oem replacements are in the mail.

 

[gasmanjohn]

I haven't heard it at all in mine. I can't be the only one. Am I just lucky?

To ammend this, the sound DOES exist and can be disabled in Forscan under the ACM tab.

 

[Sign1941]

Subwoofer install completed. Tapped rear audio for signal trigger below the left and right rear sill plates. Placed the subwoofer behind the drivers side of the back seat, had it stood on end at first, due to space, but all sound was going into the seat back and not being heard. Was able to rotate it 45 degrees and that allowed a nice space around most of the entire cabinet. Sound quality vastly improved and sounds like it did when I had it in my F150. I have zero engine noise or any other fake noises, just bass. Very please with the results. I did break some trim clips on the sill plates, oem replacements are in the mail.

Any Pics to share??

 

[brockdog12]

Any Pics to share??

Let me work on getting some posted. I'm sure they would help someone down the line.

 

[arbjosh]

Subwoofer install completed. Tapped rear audio for signal trigger below the left and right rear sill plates. Placed the subwoofer behind the drivers side of the back seat, had it stood on end at first, due to space, but all sound was going into the seat back and not being heard. Was able to rotate it 45 degrees and that allowed a nice space around most of the entire cabinet. Sound quality vastly improved and sounds like it did when I had it in my F150. I have zero engine noise or any other fake noises, just bass. Very please with the results. I did break some trim clips on the sill plates, oem replacements are in the mail.

Do you remember what color the rear speaker wires were that you tapped into? Was it for signal or remote? Did you use an LOC or high level inputs? Thanks!

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