Where to run power and speaker connections for Kicker Hideaway speaker

[deeve]

I have the non B&O system and would like to add a little more depth to the sound of my system. Eventually I would like to add better speakers and maybe an amp but for now I am going to add a Kicker Hideaway sub behind the seat. Others have done that and it appears to fit well there but I could not tell how the connectors were made.

Where should I run the power wire from for the sub and how is the best way to connect to the speakers? I think it has been pretty well determined that the rear speakers do not get the added engine sound. I would prefer not cutting or splicing into the factory wire harness if possible. I am hoping there is an adapter I can somehow use.


Thanks!
Dave

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[Ranger8729]

I'm interested as well. I'd like to add the same subwoofer behind the seat for some lower punch. I'd definitely like to stay away from splices in the factory wires as well

 

[dreamst8]

bump for feedback and other install pics showing where the power line is passed thru

 

[deeve]

I think I will connect the sub to one of these. To power the speakers I will probably end up with this amp behind the dash.

 

[moredneck]

bump

 

[dreamst8]

Has anyone located a good pass thru in the firewall to get some amplifier wires from the battery to the rear seat ? Pics of location access of possible

 

[brockdog12]

I have a Rockford Fosagte PS-8 I have used in my last two F150's and enjoyed the bass boost. It does fit behind the back seat of the new Ranger nicely. If I install it this weekend and find a way to get thru the firewall, like a small l grommet, I'll post the information as to where it is and how.

 

[DriverA]

I have the non B&O system and would like to add a little more depth to the sound of my system. Eventually I would like to add better speakers and maybe an amp but for now I am going to add a Kicker Hideaway sub behind the seat. Others have done that and it appears to fit well there but I could not tell how the connectors were made.

Where should I run the power wire from for the sub and how is the best way to connect to the speakers? I think it has been pretty well determined that the rear speakers do not get the added engine sound. I would prefer not cutting or splicing into the factory wire harness if possible. I am hoping there is an adapter I can somehow use.


Thanks!
Dave

https://plugnplaykits.com has a wide selection of custom harnesses that allow you to add a sub out, an aplifier for the fronts, or the whole kit like I ordered that gets you a custom harness, a dedicated amp for the doors, and a sub out with line converter for adding a subwoofer. I was able to pull the dash panels, and install everything without cutting into the factory harness. Though most modern amps come with high level input I opted for the LC2i for the accubass feature and more tuneability.

This video details all of the line converter options.

 

[DriverA]

Has anyone located a good pass thru in the firewall to get some amplifier wires from the battery to the rear seat ? Pics of location access of possible

Passenger side of the engine compartment is an existing pass through.

 

[deeve]

@DriverA i actually had found those kits and was going to pick one up when all this COVID nonsense hit and I got distracted. How do you like the kit? Did you replace the speakers as well?

 

[DriverA]

@DriverA i actually had found those kits and was going to pick one up when all this COVID nonsense hit and I got distracted. How do you like the kit? Did you replace the speakers as well?

The harness is very neat and professional looking, just as the picture describes.Well worth the price in my opinion! I did have to pull both the head unit and LCD to connect and fit the harness in the limited space. You have to pull the harness up into the LCD cavity to make room for the radio to slide all the way back in. Fortunately, there is plenty of room behind the LCD. It makes a considerable difference with the factory speakers but starts clipping as soon as I turn up the gain on the fronts. Power and ground to the Kicker KEY amp are supplied through the harness, so there were no extra wires to pull. It has a signal sense turn on, so it does not even require an accessory wire. I found room under the dash, just above the glove box for mounting. It was a little tricky getting the glove box assist damper reconnected.

I ordered the PowerBass OE65C-FD components for the front doors, and the PowerBass OE652-FD 2-way for the rear doors from Crutchfield. They are OEM Direct Fit replacements, so I will not have to modify any of the factory mounting bezels. They should arrive Today. I have the under-seat sub enclosure from Australia on the way as well. Once that arrives, I will take it by one of the local shops to determine what sub woofer is going to fit. For that I will have to pull power to the amp. I will post pictures of the full setup once I get it finished.

The only thing of note is that without a center channel speaker, the front and rear parking sensor alerts, along with the collision alert warnings now come through the same dash buzzer speaker as the seat belt and headlight warnings. I am going to pull the top dash panel this weekend and see if the fine folks at Ford bothered to include the center channel wiring for my non-B&O system. If so, I have already priced the speaker grille, and center speaker. Otherwise, it is a very livable compromise for me as it ALL still works, it just no longer comes through the radio. Bluetooth cell phone is not affected at all.

 

[deeve]

The harness is very neat and professional looking, just as the picture describes.Well worth the price in my opinion! I did have to pull both the head unit and LCD to connect and fit the harness in the limited space. You have to pull the harness up into the LCD cavity to make room for the radio to slide all the way back in. Fortunately, there is plenty of room behind the LCD. It makes a considerable difference with the factory speakers but starts clipping as soon as I turn up the gain on the fronts. Power and ground to the Kicker KEY amp are supplied through the harness, so there were no extra wires to pull. It has a signal sense turn on, so it does not even require an accessory wire. I found room under the dash, just above the glove box for mounting. It was a little tricky getting the glove box assist damper reconnected.

I ordered the PowerBass OE65C-FD components for the front doors, and the PowerBass OE652-FD 2-way for the rear doors from Crutchfield. They are OEM Direct Fit replacements, so I will not have to modify any of the factory mounting bezels. They should arrive Today. I have the under-seat sub enclosure from Australia on the way as well. Once that arrives, I will take it by one of the local shops to determine what sub woofer is going to fit. For that I will have to pull power to the amp. I will post pictures of the full setup once I get it finished.

The only thing of note is that without a center channel speaker, the front and rear parking sensor alerts, along with the collision alert warnings now come through the same dash buzzer speaker as the seat belt and headlight warnings. I am going to pull the top dash panel this weekend and see if the fine folks at Ford bothered to include the center channel wiring for my non-B&O system. If so, I have already priced the speaker grille, and center speaker. Otherwise, it is a very livable compromise for me as it ALL still works, it just no longer comes through the radio. Bluetooth cell phone is not affected at all.

Awesome..thank you for the information. It is very helpful...make sure to post up when you get it all installed. I am very curious how this setup with the speakers all works together as it is exactly what I was looking at. The center speaker info is great too.

 

[DriverA]

Awesome..thank you for the information. It is very helpful...make sure to post up when you get it all installed. I am very curious how this setup with the speakers all works together as it is exactly what I was looking at. The center speaker info is great too.

I didn't think it right to exclaim the positives without at least mentioning the one, very minor, drawback if you can call it that. I am over all very pleased with Joe and his product from plugnplaykits.com, who took the time to answer my questions via messenger right away. Top notch in my opinion.

 

[deeve]

I didn't think it right to exclaim the positives without at least mentioning the one, very minor, drawback if you can call it that. I am over all very pleased with Joe and his product from plugnplaykits.com, who took the time to answer my questions via messenger right away. Top notch in my opinion.

I had the same experience. He was very quick to answer...you just need to use FB messenger to do it, but that was not a problem.

 

[fusseli]

The harness is very neat and professional looking, just as the picture describes.Well worth the price in my opinion! I did have to pull both the head unit and LCD to connect and fit the harness in the limited space. You have to pull the harness up into the LCD cavity to make room for the radio to slide all the way back in. Fortunately, there is plenty of room behind the LCD. It makes a considerable difference with the factory speakers but starts clipping as soon as I turn up the gain on the fronts. Power and ground to the Kicker KEY amp are supplied through the harness, so there were no extra wires to pull. It has a signal sense turn on, so it does not even require an accessory wire. I found room under the dash, just above the glove box for mounting. It was a little tricky getting the glove box assist damper reconnected.

I ordered the PowerBass OE65C-FD components for the front doors, and the PowerBass OE652-FD 2-way for the rear doors from Crutchfield. They are OEM Direct Fit replacements, so I will not have to modify any of the factory mounting bezels. They should arrive Today. I have the under-seat sub enclosure from Australia on the way as well. Once that arrives, I will take it by one of the local shops to determine what sub woofer is going to fit. For that I will have to pull power to the amp. I will post pictures of the full setup once I get it finished.

The only thing of note is that without a center channel speaker, the front and rear parking sensor alerts, along with the collision alert warnings now come through the same dash buzzer speaker as the seat belt and headlight warnings. I am going to pull the top dash panel this weekend and see if the fine folks at Ford bothered to include the center channel wiring for my non-B&O system. If so, I have already priced the speaker grille, and center speaker. Otherwise, it is a very livable compromise for me as it ALL still works, it just no longer comes through the radio. Bluetooth cell phone is not affected at all.

The Australian fiberglass Ranger box is mad for an Alpine SWR-T10. Fits like a glove and sounds great. I run mine with 300W 4 ohms, filled with Acoustastuf.

For the rear doors you will want something like the roadkill rfkfr6 to close the gap. The brackets on those powerbass speakers look like a perfect match in the front doors, but not the rear doors that are angle up.

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