UPR Products Dual Valve Catch Can Oil Vapors

dtech

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I would think the mfg would add a can if it were that much help.
this has been probably discussed but the pcv is part of the emission system, which in the US is regulated by the EPA, has to pass their criteria - so what these cans catch varies greatly and thus how does a mfg come up with a maintenance schedule - if the can reaches max capacity then the pcv system isn't functional - a no no from the epa perspective.
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this has been probably discussed but the pcv is part of the emission system, which in the US is regulated by the EPA, has to pass their criteria - so what these cans catch varies greatly and thus how does a mfg come up with a maintenance schedule - if the can reaches max capacity then the pcv system isn't functional - a no no from the epa perspective.
Yeah, the more I think about, the more complicated it sounds.
 

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I would think the mfg would add a can if it were that much help.
The manufacturers don't put them on because they require maintenance. If it was allowed to fill up it could/would suck the oil from the can and possibly cause hydraulic lock in a cylinder and ruin the engine. They could design something that empties automatically back into the pan but they have decided the cost out weighs the benefit. They did install a relatively elaborate baffle on the side of the block the PCV valve pulls through which will colese much of the oil in vapor before being sucked into the PCV system.

I have had two Ecoboost Mustangs with combined mileage close to 100k miles. I used the same UPR single valve catch can on both. I have a task on my phone that prompts me to check the oil on all of my vehicles monthly and I would empty the catch can too. There was never more than 1/8" of oil in the bottom of the can, in the winter maybe a little more which was water and was quite often frozen. Never got around to putting my bore scope down the intake to see how much build up I was getting.

On the other side in the you don't need one camp a buddy of mine has 125,000 miles on a 14 Focus ST with the 2.0 Ecoboost. Be treats it just like he did the Corolla it replaced. Used the cheapest oil the corner gas station had, changed when the oil life monitor said to, which was consistently around 10k miles. He didn't have a catch can and the car still runs as strong as the day he got it.

I am on the fence as to whether bother with one on the Ranger
 

got3fords

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The manufacturers don't put them on because they require maintenance. If it was allowed to fill up it could/would suck the oil from the can and possibly cause hydraulic lock in a cylinder and ruin the engine.
Makes sense. I put 151k on my 2012 Focus and it still ran great. But I also didn't look into the intake. I guess you could periodically squirt some Sea Foam or something into the intake while it's running.
 
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sandog

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When I got my Ranger last month I traded in a 2013 Escape that had the 2.0 EcoBoost.
With 130K on it, it would idle really rough at stop lights, especially with the A/C on.
I changed plugs, cleaned the MAP sensors, and ran Seafoam through it.
When driving you could see back of the hood vibrating wildly.

I didn't take the engine apart to look at the intake valves, but I assumed crud on the valves was the cause of the rough idle, so I thought I'd try a catch can on the new Ranger.
 


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I have the UPR system and haven't noticed any smell since install. I did install the drain line that was supplied and drain it after every drive. Not sure if that helps
 

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I don't drain mine every day, maybe 2-3 times a week, and haven't noticed any odors.
Last week I added some O-rings to the male connectors on the catch can and air box.
I used a #9 O-ring, 5/8" O.D. and 7/8" I.D.
Push them up against the raised ridge on the connector, the O-rings take out the wiggle but the connectors still lock on securely.
 

Racket

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I'm wondering if the extra vacuum line helps pull vacuum pressure out of the positive vacuum control system. I'll have to observe if there is still an enormous amount of air pressure from the oil filler hole after driving. Might be an advantage.
 
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TJC

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I don't drain mine every day, maybe 2-3 times a week, and haven't noticed any odors.
Last week I added some O-rings to the male connectors on the catch can and air box.
I used a #9 O-ring, 5/8" O.D. and 7/8" I.D.
Push them up against the raised ridge on the connector, the O-rings take out the wiggle but the connectors still lock on securely.
UPDATE: A Hat tip to sandog for turning me on to these o rings. I removed the smaller O rings that I had used previously and replaced them with the larger Danco #8 O ring which I purchased at Home Depot for $3 (box of 10 in plumbing section). They are much thicker than the previous o rings that I had been using, and fit much better.

Danco #8 o ring.jpg


I also installed one in the intake vacuum connection as well as the 3 on top of the catch can. So I used 4 total.

catchcan.jpg


Drove the Ranger on a 100 mile 2 hour trip in stop and go (at least 25 stop lights and several 3/4 mile traffic backups at a few of those stop lights, & rural areas averaging 50-55mph, engine was much smoother from a stop. Used to have very slight hesitation in the power band, gone now.

Came home and parked the truck in the garage. No more oil vapors at all. All gone!

I averaged 25.5 mpg. This is back to my previous mpg average before the catch can was installed. That is up 3 mpg from the last 6,000 miles where highway mpg was only 22 mpg - this when vapors were very strong... perhaps intermittent vacuum leak depending on which line was under pressure, or maybe sucking air into the crankcase system... possibly both situations depending on throttle and boost conditions.

I know that UPR states that the fittings are exactly the same as what Ford uses, and that these additional o rings are not needed. I believe that the fittings probably are the same.

However, I do not believe that the port diameters on the catch can are identical. They appear to be smaller diameter and are actually tapered. When the fittings are snapped into place there is obvious slop that does not exist in the Ford connections. None of the other Ford connections on my truck are loose, allowing the fitting to easily slide up and down the port. The additional oil ring pulls the connector up against the ridge (removing the slop and sealing the connections on both sides of the ridge connection.

YMMV, but this works for me! My truck and garage are now oil vapor free - no more stinky Ranger! I even smelled it in the cab occasionally with outside air vented in.

I think it is worth the $3 investment and 5 minute install.

Tony
 
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TJC

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Just checked my UPR catch can at 11.4K miles. It been 2000 miles since my last check. This time around it was quite full. And what came out was lumpy, filthy, and had sludge and grit in it. Still light coffee color at the top, but bottom is ominously dark and thick.

Since adding the O rings the odors have been nonexistent, but once I lifted the first hose off the can the memories quickly came back.

So here is what 11,416 miles of captured sludge looks like. I am very close to an oil change, and the oil level is still resting at the full mark.

I am more convinced as time goes by that this upgrade is worthwhile.

It is a PIA to install, but worth the effort. I did notice my o rings are starting to stretch. Time to replace them both.

On final comment. The image was taken immediately after emptying the can into the bottle.

UPR Oil Catch Can Contents at 11,416 miles .jpg
 
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Just checked my UPR catch can at 11.4K miles. It been 2000 miles since my last check. This time around it was quite full. And what came out was lumpy, filthy, and had sludge and grit in it. Still light coffee color at the top, but bottom is ominously dark and thick.

Since adding the O rings the odors have been nonexistent, but once I lifted the first hose off the can the memories quickly came back.

So here is what 11,416 miles of captured sludge looks like. I am very close to an oil change, and the oil level is still resting at the full mark.

I am more convinced as time goes by that this upgrade is worthwhile.

It is a PIA to install, but worth the effort. I did notice my o rings are starting to stretch. Time to replace them both.

On final comment. The image was taken immediately after emptying the can into the bottle.

UPR Oil Catch Can Contents at 11,416 miles .jpg
Thats about what I pull out of my Mishimoto one every few weeks during the winter months here in Washington. My Focus ST did the exact same thing, nasty crap during the winter months and it cleared up during the warmer months (had that car for about 5 years, was very consistent).
 
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TJC

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15K Mile Update

Just emptied the UPR catch can at 15,000 miles. Had 3" of gunk, creamy colored and chunky.

I no longer have any oil odors or smells emanating from the can, the 4 #8 O rings coated with a little grease has been completely effective in eliminating the problem.

I had to transfer the contents of my previous container to a 2.7 quart (89 Oz) container. The black crud on the bottom of the jug is very thick. The orange stuff on the top will separate into a clear top and a darker layer below it. At basically a 50% split ratio. The black crud makes up ~40% of the volume.

I have no regrets installing the UPR catch can. It has performed flawlessly.

I will be replacing the interior rubber O ring that holds the top of the sandwich filter together with a narrow band stainless steel clamp, much like those used to hold the boots on CV joints or drive shaft slip joint boots. It is well above any level that the contents may reach and there is no need to ever remove it. Everything comes apart without the O ring needing to be removed.

I inspected the hoses and they are still looking new. They are very high quality.

I installed the catch can when the truck was new. So we are ~2.5 years into its life.

2020 Ranger 15K Miles UPR Catch Can Contents .JPG

I'll post before/after pictures of the mod when I open the can and replace the O ring with the band at the next oil change.

I still have not added the drain line to the bottom and do not think I ever will. There is simply too much crud in the bottom of the can that stays in the can unless you physically clean it.

- Tony
 
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TJC

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I just cleaned out my catch can with brake cleaner, and instead of replacing the internal large oil ring that is used as a retainer to keep the filter sandwich together and was loose (at the top of the internal filter sandwich), I simply removed it and used a tie wrap to keep the sandwich snugly together. Took 5 minutes. We'll see how long it holds up but I do not foresee a problem.

It is better than paying $20 for 2 O rings from UPR.

I also used a high quality food grade grease on the upper o ring and threads... to protect the O ring from fumes and stretching. Seemed to work very well. This stuff is designed to stay where you put it and is harmless to most everything... it is clear and designed for heavy machinery that comes into occasional contact with food.

Stay tune for a follow up report at the next oil change - still 2500 miles away.

- T
 
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Dr3wDrop

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I just cleaned out my catch can with brake cleaner, and instead of replacing the internal large oil ring that is used as a retainer to keep the filter sandwich toghter and was loose (at the top of the internal filter sandwich), I simply removed it and used s tie wrap to keep the sandwich snugly together. Took 5 minutes. We'll see how long it holds up but I do not foresee a problem.

It is better than paying $20 for 2 O rings from UPR.

I also used a high quality food grade grease on the upper o ring and threads... to protect the O ring from fumes and stretching. Seemed to work very well. This stuff is designed to stay where you put it and is harmless to most everything... it is clear and designed for heavy machinery that comes into occasional contact with food.

Stay tune for a fallow up report at the next oil change - still 2500 miles away.

- T
Pics?
 
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TJC

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OK, Pictures and more to report! I just returned from a 500+ mile road trip in my Ranger in a single day. I checked the oil level before I left. Engine cold sitting over night to insure all oil was in the pan. I measured almost 1/2" above the full line! This surprised me as I have never had this issue before. Figured it is either water vapor or gas diluting the oil.

I emptied the catch at the same time and had a very very small amount that didn't even raise the level from the the 15K mile mark in the jug.

Got back late last night and checked the can this morning, so oil is now settled back in the pan.

First thing to report is that the oil level is now only 1/16" above the full mark! The truck is in the garage at the exact same location so we can rule out any uneven ground.

Removed catch can to take the promised pictures and found 2.5" of content, primarily water/gas mix with a little bit of cream sludge.
500mile 3.jpg


Poured the contents in the jug - It was NOT a trivial amount! The catch can IS catching something! The difference from 15K to 15.5K is all due to the single 500+ mile trip in 1 day!
500mile 1.jpg


Now on to the minor modifications that I made to the UPR catch can. The three #8 O rings placed on the ports right at the ridgeline are very effective at sealing the connection. I also install one at the intake port of the boosted hose. So 4 O rings added. No more oIl odors since installing them. I picked up a 10 pack at Lowes but have since found a much larger Misc O ring kit from harbor freight that contained more O rings for less.

You can also see where I replaced the large O ring (with a red zip tie) that acts as a retainer for the condenser sandwich. Seems to be holding things snug (unlike the oil ring which would expand and shrink for reasons I don't care about. (I only care that it did it!)

Note the water/fuel on the towel, in less than 2 minutes it grew to a 7" x 4" area - all coming from the condenser sandwich area draining on it.
500mile 2.jpg


Here is the towel after the top sitting on it untouched for 3 minutes
500mile 4.jpg


I suspect that running my ranger for 7.5 hours at cruise speeds allowed whatever contaminates that were in the oil to evaporate and get caught in the catch can or burned in the engine cylinders. It was a cool day with temps in the mid 30's early rising to mid 50's during the day, and as we drove back dropping again into the 30's. Humidity was maderate, and no rain.

A couple of other notes of interest. Those O rings tend to want to come off when the fittings are removed, so watch for them.

Next up, this was my first high speed long trip in my ranger since being equipped with the new Tom Woods 1 piece draft shaft. I cruised at 75mph, and hit 80+ a couple of times. The truck was abslutely smooth without any shudders at very low or very high speeds. Prior to changing the driveshaft I had take off and stopping shudders, as well as a very severe shake above 75mph. So far this ranks as teh best addition that I have made to my Ranger (and I love my Apex Power Steps).

Tony
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