UPR Products Dual Valve Catch Can Oil Vapors

TJC

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I have recently purchased and installed the UPR Dual Valve Catch Can and after driving it for several hundred miles I began to notice the smell oil vapors when walking past the front drivers side corner of the truck. I checked the can and there was maybe .3 ounce of oil in the can, enough to puddle when I angled the can.

Later in the day I was driving and noticed the faint smell of oil in the cab coming through the air vents when first starting the truck up. As soon as I was moving the smell dissipated.

I checked everything out and the can and hoses are installed correctly, so I placed a call to UPR and asked them about it. I was thinking maybe that there was a loose connection at the catch can fittings. The fittings move up ~ 1/8", but this seems normal on all three fittings.

Anyway, Alex answered my call and asked me it I had the 2 valve system. I answered yes. He explained that it is to be expected as the vapors can travel down the hose to the filter elbow and exit via the intake track. So this is considered to be working as designed. I asked about the check valve in that line limiting oil vapors from escaping the system, as I assumed that the check valve was only open during boost conditions. He repeated that the vapor can escape from that hose if oil was in the can. I did find it curious that the smell was coming from the can vicinity, and not the intake opening.

So armed with UPR's explanation, I tested the theory by removing the second line from the catch can and the intake elbow, and capped the ports. I drove the truck for over an hour, parked it and did the sniff test - no oil vapors present.

I have three obvious issues with this design:
  1. Letting oil vapors escape into the atmosphere is a "No No", that is why we have PCV systems in the first place. I don't think that this design will pass a smog test.
  2. I don't like breathing oil vapors while cruising in my new Ranger, even for just a little while.
  3. I don't like smelling oil vapors in my garage while walking in front of my Ranger.
So for now I am leaving the second vacuum line disconnected.

Has anyone else noticed this problem? I have a hard time believing that I am the only person to notice this.

Does anyone have any thoughts or solutions? I am open to all ideas.

- Tony
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I have the UPR dual vacuum setup (added the second vacuum line about ten months after the original install) and I don't smell anything like that. Be sure your hose at the manifold and the PVC connections aren't loose? Although after nearly a year mine (according to the Ford tech) it came loose because it wasn't completely on(?) and threw a code, going into limp mode.
 
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TJC

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I have the UPR dual vacuum setup (added the second vacuum line about ten months after the original install) and I don't smell anything like that. Be sure your hose at the manifold and the PVC connections aren't loose? Although after nearly a year mine (according to the Ford tech) it came loose because it wasn't completely on(?) and threw a code, going into limp mode.
I definitely smelled the odor at the top of the catch can (ports), and not at the air intake or the engine block.

Prior to calling UPR I checked everything very closely. No oil or oil vapors from the engine connections. The hose connections are secure at the intake manifold and block. I have not had any codes thrown either.

After I removed (and capped) the air intake elbow to can hose (the second hose that runs across the fan shroud) and drove the truck for over an hour, there was nary a sent of oil vapor.

The truck seems to accelerate smoother with the secondary vacuum line removed. Maybe I've got a bad check valve in that line allowing it to remain open. I can (and will) test that easily enough. Should only allow air to flow one way - towards the intake elbow downstream from the air filter. I also purchased the upgraded check valves

UPR seemed aware of this and before I had a chance to tell him, he asked me if I had the dual hose system, and told me it was normal, and expected. I did not like that answer.

I posted here looking for answers. There is a great deal of knowledge on this board.

Thanks for your assistance and input.

One vote for no vapors with the dual system. Which to me means it is possible to correct. I may check the hose to adapter connections at the can and see if the O rings are intact and undamaged. They came pre-assembled.

- Tony
 

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I definitely smelled the odor at the top of the catch can (ports), and not at the air intake or the engine block.

Prior to calling UPR I checked everything very closely. No oil or oil vapors from the engine connections. The hose connections are secure at the intake manifold and block. I have not had any codes thrown either.

After I removed (and capped) the air intake elbow to can hose (the second hose that runs across the fan shroud) and drove the truck for over an hour, there was nary a sent of oil vapor.

The truck seems to accelerate smoother with the secondary vacuum line removed. Maybe I've got a bad check valve in that line allowing it to remain open. I can (and will) test that easily enough. Should only allow air to flow one way - towards the intake elbow downstream from the air filter. I also purchased the upgraded check valves

UPR seemed aware of this and before I had a chance to tell him, he asked me if I had the dual hose system, and told me it was normal, and expected. I did not like that answer.

I posted here looking for answers. There is a great deal of knowledge on this board.

Thanks for your assistance and input.

One vote for no vapors with the dual system. Which to me means it is possible to correct. I may check the hose to adapter connections at the can and see if the O rings are intact and undamaged. They came pre-assembled.

- Tony
Is your oil cap on tight?
 
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TJC

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Is your oil cap on tight?
Oil Cap is tight. And I took it off for the first time today. Took the truck out again this evening and got home to the odor. So I guess I can rule out the 2nd vacuum line. Still investigating.
Won't play with it tomorrow as I have guests to entertain on Thanksgiving.

Stay tuned... (You may be correct - the problem might be down under!)

Tony
 


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I noticed a strong smell with the Mishimoto can. I replaced it with the dual valve UPR and haven't noticed a smell again. If there is a smell its much more faint than the Mishimoto and I do not notice it. What is noticeable is what the can catches!
20201129_123247.jpg
 
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TJC

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I noticed a strong smell with the Mishimoto can. I replaced it with the dual valve UPR and haven't noticed a smell again. If there is a smell its much more faint than the Mishimoto and I do not notice it. What is noticeable is what the can catches!
My can is catching oil. Not seen either water or gas yet. But it has just gotten cold here in central North Carolina.

I didn't start smelling oil until I had oil in the can, It is not much, but it is there. Have not had time to investigate further since I first mentioned it. I did remove the can and looked inside when I first noticed the smell... and made sure that the can was sealing tight.

I appreciate how well designed the system is. It is simple to remove/replace the can. I saw no need to add the drain line after testing out the R&R process of the can.

I am still leaning towards the problem being looseness in fittings at the can. They move very easily up and down just shy of an 1/8". I can't help but think the seals are too loose. There is very little friction at all when removing them. They do lock down when pushed past the ridge on the can ports.

More later when I have the time to investigate properly.

Tony
 

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I know some owners think the Blackstone test is hype, but maybe consider it to see if anything out of range is going on? Do you have other mods, running a tune?
 
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TJC

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I know some owners think the Blackstone test is hype, but maybe consider it to see if anything out of range is going on? Do you have other mods, running a tune?
I have no other engine mods. And the odor only showed up when oil was found in the can. Never had the odor until the oil can started to hold a little oil. The first couple of weeks no oil odor and no oil in can. I have a few thoughts about what is going on and how to address it, but simply have not had the time to try them.

I'll report back after a few trial fixes. UPR says it is "normal". I am not satisfied with that answer. If I smell it, then it is not a closed system and is getting into the atmosphere. Precisely what the PCV system was designed to avoid.

I've not tried the Blackstone oil analysis service. I just use high grade synthetic oil, and change it earlier than required.

Tony
 

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I have no other engine mods. And the odor only showed up when oil was found in the can. Never had the odor until the oil can started to hold a little oil. The first couple of weeks no oil odor and no oil in can. I have a few thoughts about what is going on and how to address it, but simply have not had the time to try them.

I'll report back after a few trial fixes. UPR says it is "normal". I am not satisfied with that answer. If I smell it, then it is not a closed system and is getting into the atmosphere. Precisely what the PCV system was designed to avoid.

I've not tried the Blackstone oil analysis service. I just use high grade synthetic oil, and change it earlier than required.

Tony
I'd suggest it may be something with the engine. The threads regarding fuel in the oil raise the possibility.

Blackstone suggested some of the measurements in my analysis may be the engine still breaking in (at 15,000 miles?).

Were you able to confirm the connections are snug? UPR uses OEM type connectors and superior quality hose. If it is plumbed correctly it would be a sealed system.
 
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TJC

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I'd suggest it may be something with the engine. The threads regarding fuel in the oil raise the possibility.

Blackstone suggested some of the measurements in my analysis may be the engine still breaking in (at 15,000 miles?).

Were you able to confirm the connections are snug? UPR uses OEM type connectors and superior quality hose. If it is plumbed correctly it would be a sealed system.
I don't smell gas. I smell oil. I know the difference. And looking in the can I see only oil. It has just now turned moderately cold here in NC, 41F right now. No where near freezing when I am driving the truck. Usually mid 50F -70F during the day.

I have checked and rechecked the hoses and they are indeed correct. I like the OEM type connectors, it is one of the reasons I purchased this system over others. It is much easier to empty the can as the connectors are simple to remove.

However, they do seem a little on the loose side to me. More slop on top of the can than I would prefer. The do lock on, but there is up/down play in them - easily 1/16th". The OEM connections are much tighter than those on the UPR can. I think I am going to break out my micrometer and measure them, comparing them to stock ports that use the same connectors. I also have the original hose with similar fittings. Will try it on the top if the can and see if it is snug.

There is a small amount of oil in the can. I am going to empty it and see of the odor diminishes. I didn't begin to smell anything until oil was in the can.

We'll see soon enough. Working on another truck right now, but my focus will return to the 2020 Ranger shortly.

Tony
 

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I don't believe you remove the hoses to empty the can? I've got the the drain valve/extension so I don't have to unscrew the reservoir itself. The guys at UPR tell me I've got the second Ranger CC they sold and it's been in my truck since there was 500 miles on it - I'm about to hit 17,000 and I don't smell any fumes from fluids from the truck. I added the second vacuum source kit as soon as it became available - again told I got the second one of those. All premium check valves. Granted it's had a luxe life in South Florida for the most part (a couple trips to Georgia in winter) and what drains from the CC is a mix of oily stuff and something like water - but smells volatile. My connections don't have much play at all and can't be removed without releasing the clips.

I'd want you to get the full benefits of yours as I see it as a refinement of the factory oil separator system. I can't understand how oil is escaping yours.
 
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TJC

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I don't believe you remove the hoses to empty the can? I've got the the drain valve/extension so I don't have to unscrew the reservoir itself. The guys at UPR tell me I've got the second Ranger CC they sold and it's been in my truck since there was 500 miles on it - I'm about to hit 17,000 and I don't smell any fumes from fluids from the truck. I added the second vacuum source kit as soon as it became available - again told I got the second one of those. All premium check valves. Granted it's had a luxe life in South Florida for the most part (a couple trips to Georgia in winter) and what drains from the CC is a mix of oily stuff and something like water - but smells volatile. My connections don't have much play at all and can't be removed without releasing the clips.

I'd want you to get the full benefits of yours as I see it as a refinement of the factory oil separator system. I can't understand how oil is escaping yours.
I've got the second line installed as well. The lines remove very easily. It is not a big deal to remove them. I only have ~600 miles on my truck. I installed the catch can on at 200. I intend to find out how the fumes are getting out. There are no leaks anywhere, nothing damp anywhere.

Just finished the work on my 2005 Ranger and will be looking at the new one in a day or two.

Tony
 
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TJC

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I'd want you to get the full benefits of yours as I see it as a refinement of the factory oil separator system. I can't understand how oil is escaping yours.
I had a chance to look over the problem tonight and solved it. I removed the sloppiness in the hose fittings by adding an O ring to the can ports - seating them on the top of the ridge. See red lines in image below for the location of the added O rings. If you look closely at how the hose end seals to the ports, you see that they seal by an O ring seating against the ridge on the port tube. If there is play then the O ring in the hose fitting never rests on the port ridge and the seal is never made. The added O ring took out the play and forced the O ring in the hose fitting to rest tightly against the O ring that I added on the can ports.

catchcan 5.jpg


I tested by taking the truck on a 50 miles cruise at 70mph, came home and parked it in the garage... No more oil odors!

Bottom line here is that there should not be play in the fitting when it is latched in place. None of the OEM Ford fittings have any slop in them. I checked. Two of my UPR catch can adapters had excessive slop in them, the 3rd one had some slop as well, just not as much.

Tony
 

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I have recently purchased and installed the UPR Dual Valve Catch Can and after driving it for several hundred miles I began to notice the smell oil vapors when walking past the front drivers side corner of the truck. I checked the can and there was maybe .3 ounce of oil in the can, enough to puddle when I angled the can.

Later in the day I was driving and noticed the faint smell of oil in the cab coming through the air vents when first starting the truck up. As soon as I was moving the smell dissipated.

I checked everything out and the can and hoses are installed correctly, so I placed a call to UPR and asked them about it. I was thinking maybe that there was a loose connection at the catch can fittings. The fittings move up ~ 1/8", but this seems normal on all three fittings.

Anyway, Alex answered my call and asked me it I had the 2 valve system. I answered yes. He explained that it is to be expected as the vapors can travel down the hose to the filter elbow and exit via the intake track. So this is considered to be working as designed. I asked about the check valve in that line limiting oil vapors from escaping the system, as I assumed that the check valve was only open during boost conditions. He repeated that the vapor can escape from that hose if oil was in the can. I did find it curious that the smell was coming from the can vicinity, and not the intake opening.

So armed with UPR's explanation, I tested the theory by removing the second line from the catch can and the intake elbow, and capped the ports. I drove the truck for over an hour, parked it and did the sniff test - no oil vapors present.

I have three obvious issues with this design:
  1. Letting oil vapors escape into the atmosphere is a "No No", that is why we have PCV systems in the first place. I don't think that this design will pass a smog test.
  2. I don't like breathing oil vapors while cruising in my new Ranger, even for just a little while.
  3. I don't like smelling oil vapors in my garage while walking in front of my Ranger.
So for now I am leaving the second vacuum line disconnected.

Has anyone else noticed this problem? I have a hard time believing that I am the only person to notice this.

Does anyone have any thoughts or solutions? I am open to all ideas.

- Tony
Tony....when you effectively "crack open" the system you will inherently get a fuel odor with these trucks. Something else...when you folks get cold over in NC you will definitely see a noticeable difference in the amount of vapor you are capturing. At least twice as much when freezing or below. I have a Mishimoto catch can on mine and noticed the odor right away. I don't really get any odor in the cab. Maybe when I open the door but that's it. In the future I would like to have a system that has more capacity to hold the vapor so I don't have to empty as often.
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