Trigger Wireless Controller Install

[Andy]

I decided to forgo my current Lightforce switch setup in favor of the Trigger controller because I am soon to add a winch and bumper with more lights.

The controller itself is built very well with a robust shell and mounting holes. The power in and out of the device is supplied by heavy gauge wire leads which I found very well done.

The controller has onboard replaceable fuses with access by removing a clear cover on the top (face) of the unit. Also found on the face of the unit next to the fuses are indication LED’s along with manual operation buttons for each output.

The wireless switch bank is the only letdown of the setup and I’m hopeful they will release an upgraded version in the future. As of now it gets the job done but it’s crunchy in operation and feels low quality.

As for where to mount the controller on our trucks I spend a few minutes trying to decide how I wanted to address it. Needing to be close to the battery I planned out a few places but settled on utilizing the battery retention platform.

I made up a bracket to fit the platform and attach with the same nut and stud for the battery retention strap.

The controller is sitting in what I would consider the perfect spot to allow access and keep the wires positioned with the least strain.

Here are the pics!

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[Quick]

Looks like a nice piece..

Pics of the switch unit?

 

[Msfitoy]

Love this switch but most people are over thinking the mounting...Mines been sitting on top of the battery for nearly 30,000 miles and never moved...

 

[coblueberryranger]

Anyone have a wire they tapped into for the ignition fuse or everyone just wiring it straight to the battery for always on? Mines straight into the battery currently because I couldn't locate a fused on/off wire

 

[Gizmokid2005]

Anyone have a wire they tapped into for the ignition fuse or everyone just wiring it straight to the battery for always on? Mines straight into the battery currently because I couldn't locate a fused on/off wire

I spent some time trying to figure this out myself. I posted here with what I found for the passenger's compartment fuses: https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/passenger-compartment-spare-fuses.6325/

In short - I did an Add-A-Circuit fuse tap in the passenger fuse compartment to a relay for all of my stuff. I didn't want an always hot situation, just in case. I used passenger #37 for my tap: https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/a-pillar-pod-install-distribution-box-build.6337/

 

[Msfitoy]

Power line connects directly to positive battery terminal...wire arm wire to marker lamp power to keep errant signal from turning on your Trigger and only powered when markers are turned on...that's what manufacturer recommended...

 

[Msfitoy]

i tried going on the cheap for my planned lighting.
I have a light bar I hoped I could tap into the high beam only (thats what makes it legal here) but have decided that I would risk it and a fix it ticket if the LEO's decide to check, and they will .
I also have some aux lighting (secret project) that i want on when the truck is running.
Made up a nice little harness with relays and a wireless switch...thought I'd go el cheapo....and now I just realized I wasted money and time trying to be that electronic wizard that I am not. it only worked half the way it was supposed to.
i now have a bunch of electrical supplies that will collect dust in my toolbox....money well spent.

So I dropped my newly printed money on a Trigger 2100....wasnt cheap, but i should have gone this route in the first place. saved myself the grief and embarrassment of failure.

Then you'll regret not getting the 3001 later

I was playing while sitting by my camp fire next to the truck and started the engine. Of course the markers came on while it's running. I then opened my Trigger App and found that because the markers were on, I can turn on any of the auxiliary lamps. This is going to come in handy deep in the woods early in the morning while up in the RTT if I hear anything suspicious outside in the blackness...start the truck and light em up

 

[Noel Willhite]

Power line connects directly to positive battery terminal...wire arm wire to marker lamp power to keep errant signal from turning on your Trigger and only powered when markers are turned on...that's what manufacturer recommended...

Just got my trigger
Any link on install instructions for that set up?

 

[Noel Willhite]

Power line connects directly to positive battery terminal...wire arm wire to marker lamp power to keep errant signal from turning on your Trigger and only powered when markers are turned on...that's what manufacturer recommended...

So red to positive battery terminal, black to ground, yellow to :
-marker light or ignition fuse through tap? What fuse is that?
Sorry for the questions , trying to be as safe and effective as possible so as not to cause problems down the road! (New at this)

 

[Gizmokid2005]

So red to positive battery terminal, black to ground, yellow to :
-marker light or ignition fuse through tap? What fuse is that?
Sorry for the questions , trying to be as safe and effective as possible so as not to cause problems down the road! (New at this)

If you want to use an ignition fuse, it's #37 in the passenger compartment.

 

[Noel Willhite]

If you want to use an ignition fuse, it's #37 in the passenger compartment.

Perfect!
So I’ll need to extend a 12 or 14 gauge wire to run from yellow “power on” wire to a micro 2 fuse tap on #37? (Assuming the wire that came with trigger isn’t long enough?)
Lastly , looks like wrestling through a grommet for steering column appears to be the best point of entry or is there and easier softer way?

 

[Gizmokid2005]

Perfect!
So I’ll need to extend a 12 or 14 gauge wire to run from yellow “power on” wire to a micro 2 fuse tap on #37? (Assuming the wire that came with trigger isn’t long enough?)
Lastly , looks like wrestling through a grommet for steering column appears to be the best point of entry or is there and easier softer way?

If you're using it only for power relay, you could easily get away with 16 or 18ga. I didn't find a better place than the grommet for the harness by the steering column.

 

[Msfitoy]

So red to positive battery terminal, black to ground, yellow to :
-marker light or ignition fuse through tap? What fuse is that?
Sorry for the questions , trying to be as safe and effective as possible so as not to cause problems down the road! (New at this)

Yes, red to + terminal and black to - terminal, not ground. They recommend connecting yellow to an auxiliary source to mitigate errant RF signals from turning on your lamps unintended...would be bad if you're in traffic and your spots comes on and pissing people off LOL. In my case, I tapped into the power lead of the marker lamp (coming from the headlamp harness) so Trigger is only powered when these are and your battery won't drain if you're parked in a garage while you're out of town....If you rather be a risk taker then tie the yellow and red together and you can control them regardless is your truck if on or not...

 

[Noel Willhite]

Yes, red to + terminal and black to - terminal, not ground. They recommend connecting yellow to an auxiliary source to mitigate errant RF signals from turning on your lamps unintended...would be bad if you're in traffic and your spots comes on and pissing people off LOL. In my case, I tapped into the power lead of the marker lamp (coming from the headlamp harness) so Trigger is only powered when these are and your battery won't drain if you're parked in a garage while you're out of town....If you rather be a risk taker then tie the yellow and red together and you can control them regardless is your truck if on or not...

Ok awesome , that seems fairly simple ,
Did you need to run an in-line fuse where you cut the power lead and spliced in? Or would the fuses built into the trigger suffice and that’s kind of the point in investing in a controller ?

 

[Gizmokid2005]

Ok awesome , that seems fairly simple ,
Did you need to run an in-line fuse where you cut the power lead and spliced in? Or would the fuses built into the trigger suffice and that’s kind of the point in investing in a controller ?

Personally I'd never run a power lead that doesn't have its own fuse on it. My custom box uses one of the fuses before it distributes. Not sure what's in the trigger for safety though

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