Tremor 2” level from ford ranger lifts.

codestp202

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Anyone talking about trying to skip removing the axle nut and pushing out the axle. Don't. Just get a 35mm socket and take the extra 45 seconds to remove the axle nut and push out the axle.

So many horror stories about people popping their cv joints on the rangers doing the install the way Stage 3 does where they just pry down on the control arm. I did a bilstein 2.5" lift a week ago and removing the axle nut and pushing it out was one of the easiest parts of the job. Way easier than separating the ball joints ect. This is one of those times it's not worth taking a short cut as replacing the cv's after just trying to do a level kit would be such a kick in the nuts.

Note, I really like stage 3's videos and I have bought a couple things from them- but I do not like how they skip that step and don't warn people in the video.
 

Dgc333

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Anyone talking about trying to skip removing the axle nut and pushing out the axle. Don't. Just get a 35mm socket and take the extra 45 seconds to remove the axle nut and push out the axle.

So many horror stories about people popping their cv joints on the rangers doing the install the way Stage 3 does where they just pry down on the control arm. I did a bilstein 2.5" lift a week ago and removing the axle nut and pushing it out was one of the easiest parts of the job. Way easier than separating the ball joints ect. This is one of those times it's not worth taking a short cut as replacing the cv's after just trying to do a level kit would be such a kick in the nuts.

Note, I really like stage 3's videos and I have bought a couple things from them- but I do not like how they skip that step and don't warn people in the video.
What is the torque spec when you put the nut back on? Vehicles I have pulled CV axles on in the past have had specs for the axle nut in the 200 ft-lbs range.
 

codestp202

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What is the torque spec when you put the nut back on? Vehicles I have pulled CV axles on in the past have had specs for the axle nut in the 200 ft-lbs range.
221 Ft-lbs is the spec
 

miller2221

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221 Ft-lbs is the spec
I just installed 1” spacer on driver’s side and did remove the axle nut and popped it out from spindle. My question is, what are the torque specs on:

1.)sway bar?
2.) tie rod end?
3.) upper control arm?
4.) lower and upper strut?
5.) anything else I missed?

I haven’t seen anyone ask these questions so my apologies in advance if there is an obvious place to find this information. Oh, and I’m working with a 2021 Ranger Lariat Tremor in case this information makes a difference.

FYI, I did struggle to get outer tie rod free from spindle. In that struggle, I put a ~ 2mm tear in rubber boot. I used some heavy duty super glue to try and prevent it from spreading. This happened because I went for the tie rod fork tool when it didn’t pop off using hammer. I abandoned that tool once I observed grease coming out (quickly) and emailed Robby. Within a couple hours, he responded and let me know that I needed to jack up the lower control arm and buy a bigger hammer lol! That did the trick.
 


codestp202

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I just installed 1” spacer on driver’s side and did remove the axle nut and popped it out from spindle. My question is, what are the torque specs on:

1.)sway bar?
2.) tie rod end?
3.) upper control arm?
4.) lower and upper strut?
5.) anything else I missed?

I haven’t seen anyone ask these questions so my apologies in advance if there is an obvious place to find this information. Oh, and I’m working with a 2021 Ranger Lariat Tremor in case this information makes a difference.

FYI, I did struggle to get outer tie rod free from spindle. In that struggle, I put a ~ 2mm tear in rubber boot. I used some heavy duty super glue to try and prevent it from spreading. This happened because I went for the tie rod fork tool when it didn’t pop off using hammer. I abandoned that tool once I observed grease coming out (quickly) and emailed Robby. Within a couple hours, he responded and let me know that I needed to jack up the lower control arm and buy a bigger hammer lol! That did the trick.
I believe all of those specs are in the stage 3 install videos
 

Dgc333

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I installed the 1" spacer kit on my Tremor yesterday. Not a bad job all in all. Took about 2.5 hours start to finish and that included running to the parts store for a 35mm socket (thought I had one but it was 32mm) and a soda break between sides.

I used a 5lb sledge hammer to pop the tie rod ends and ball joints loose. A couple of good smacks and the came loose. If you are adverse to beating on the knuckle, one of these will do the job too.
download.jpeg

About $15 to $20 at most parts stores.

A couple of things I learned doing this.

1. The fasteners for the upper ball joint, tie rod and lower shock mount are all the same thread size but the tie rod nut has a 20mm hex, the others are 18mm.
2. If you are doing the 1" lift there is no need to loosen or remove the lower shock fasteners. Just pop the top of the shock out of it's cup, put on the spacer and pop it back in.
3. Not sure why the instructions tell you to remove the sway bar bracket from the frame. Much easier to remove the sway bar end link from the knuckle.
4. Have a bungie strap handy if you need to step away while the knuckle is disconnected from the upper control arm. If the knuckle is allowed to flop it will over stress the brake hose.
5. You will definitely need a jack under the lower control arm to lift it up in order to start the nut on the upper control arm ball joint.

I think the 1" lift on the Tremor is perfect, it puts the bottom of the rocker level and parallel to the ground.

IMG_20211023_113212326_HDR.jpg
 

CarbonTremor

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I installed the 1" spacer kit on my Tremor yesterday. Not a bad job all in all. Took about 2.5 hours start to finish and that included running to the parts store for a 35mm socket (thought I had one but it was 32mm) and a soda break between sides.

I used a 5lb sledge hammer to pop the tie rod ends and ball joints loose. A couple of good smacks and the came loose. If you are adverse to beating on the knuckle, one of these will do the job too.
download.jpeg

About $15 to $20 at most parts stores.

A couple of things I learned doing this.

1. The fasteners for the upper ball joint, tie rod and lower shock mount are all the same thread size but the tie rod nut has a 20mm hex, the others are 18mm.
2. If you are doing the 1" lift there is no need to loosen or remove the lower shock fasteners. Just pop the top of the shock out of it's cup, put on the spacer and pop it back in.
3. Not sure why the instructions tell you to remove the sway bar bracket from the frame. Much easier to remove the sway bar end link from the knuckle.
4. Have a bungie strap handy if you need to step away while the knuckle is disconnected from the upper control arm. If the knuckle is allowed to flop it will over stress the brake hose.
5. You will definitely need a jack under the lower control arm to lift it up in order to start the nut on the upper control arm ball joint.

I think the 1" lift on the Tremor is perfect, it puts the bottom of the rocker level and parallel to the ground.

IMG_20211023_113212326_HDR.jpg
Looks great ! . . .I tried the tool you posted above I. 3 different sizes with no luck. I'm thinking I might just try the sledgehammer method before I pay to have coils installed.
 

RangerThingz

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I have the 1” installed, then the 2” came out. Disappointed that it came out later. Id much rather have the 2, but i paid for an alignment after getting the 1” put on. So not going to return/swap.
from someone with a 1”,
Go with 2”
Any pics of the 1inch level?
 

RBTremor

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wow ok.. never got to watch this video, if his pushing down on the arm to pull and place the strut back on, I am not going to worry on the off road use then.... that pulling and pushing was more than I felt comfortable to push down on the arm to remove that strut.... cool video. He is a cool guy, talked to him on the phone prior to ordering.

here is my Tremor with the 2'' lift kit.

tempImagebaFdkg.png


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tempImageK2pdfs.png
Sweet truck! I just got my Carbonized Tremor and ordered the 2" kit.
 

Gr8Hortoni

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Got my 2” installed this weekend, along with 1” Eibach blocks for the rear. What a difference in front clearance. It’s subtle until you get right next to it and realize how much bigger it is.
F3D06B77-E813-42B8-8B40-B057B5471F02.jpeg
 

DukeCanBuildit

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Can you elaborate on what you mean by this?

I took them fully out of knuckle so when i was prying down lower control arm it didnt stress the axle and when going back together supporting the lower control arm before tightening so the weight was on the vehicle and the axle wasnt in a bind or odd angle before reassembly and torquing.
I did this as well - pushed the axle through the knuckle and nylon strapped it to the anti-sway bar link so it would stay out of the way. I also removed the rotor and calliper so I didn’t have to fight the weight of them when re-assembling things.

I know, not necessary, extra work, all that stuff - but it really made things so much easier plus I got a close-up look at the pad and rotor surfaces at the same time.

I’m also curious to find out what @LoneRNGR is concerned about or if he thought you meant bearings in the CV assembly rather than the hub assembly.
 

awd.nv

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Got my 2” installed this weekend, along with 1” Eibach blocks for the rear. What a difference in front clearance. It’s subtle until you get right next to it and realize how much bigger it is.
F3D06B77-E813-42B8-8B40-B057B5471F02.jpeg
How does the drive with this setup? Any off-road articulation yet? Looks good!

Since I tow I initially was thinking about just the 1" front, but lately been thinking about 2" front with 1" spacer in the rear (along with 1" wheel spacers). Just don't want to mess with how good she tows our travel trailer.....so I am on the fence.
Sponsored

 
 



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