should I use my parking brake?

Frenchy

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Are you sure that you're out of warranty? I just had to look at mine for an issue that I'm having, and term warranty is 36mths/100K km. Given that we're in the same province and that I didn't take an extended warranty, you should still have 5K of km to go on; of course, I have no idea when your 36 started.
Time is what could have done it. Think about it, if the start date of the warranty is 09/2020 then by 09/2023 you have passes the 36 month warranty (assuming the day is the same in both years)
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airline tech

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Thank you for your advice! I believe it is the drivers side cable that is ceased, (passenger side engages and disengages as it should) and it only hinders the parking brake drum brake, my normal rotor breaks are perfectly fine.

I can apply the parking brake perfectly fine, however when I go to release it, the cable doesn't pull the thing back and it stays engaged. You can see in this video, here I had to pull it back with needle nose to disengage the drum brake.

If you are able to pull it back that easily, I am thinking the caliper is ok, and just a cable lube is all that is needed, if you follow the cable forward to the point of where both LR and RR cables join the front cable.
Inspect that cable run and spray lube (With Straw) to the visible cable ends where they enter the cable housing.

Clarification of Operation:
That is not a drum (Operation)
I believe owners that have RH-Drive Trucks, may have drum brakes, or a Disc Brake with the rotor having a hat design for a small drum brake setup for the parking brake function.
If there are any differences between the NA vs ROW models, these would be the variant options.

Engagement:
When you pull the parking brake, the cable pulls that lever, when the lever is moved it moves a small (screw actuator) inside the caliper, the threads of the actuator will cause the caliper piston to push outward (holding the brake pads against the rotor)

Disengagement:
When you release the parking brake, the return spring (bottom side of the caliper in the video)
creates the tension to release the cable and lever.

So, possible reasons for it to stick and not return.
The tension on that spring can only do so much, and more drag on that lever or cable will cause it to hang.

You could always just disconnect the cable from the lever, to isolate the issue cable vs caliper.

1. Cable rusty / corroded - Spray Lube should free it up, as long as the cable and or housing is not damaged or cable not overly corroded, by the ease you were able to pull it back, points to just spray some lube on the cable and it should be good to go.
2. The caliper (screw actuator) threads are rusty / corroded, this is internal to the caliper.
3. The parking brake lever pivot point is rusty / corroded) - At the Caliper
4. The caliper piston is seizing in the caliper and not returning when the park brake is released, this would also show as a grabbing brake, with normal braking action.
5. Weak - Worn (Return Spring) at the caliper

Note: The Screw Actuator inside the caliper, also serves as a self-adjustor for the rear brake pads
as the pads wear, the adjustor rotates and moves the piston closer to the rotor,
Basically, the same as the old school drum brakes operated except it is not required to be in reverse to accomplish this.
 
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Jacksonlucas1312
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Are you sure that you're out of warranty? I just had to look at mine for an issue that I'm having, and term warranty is 36mths/100K km. Given that we're in the same province and that I didn't take an extended warranty, you should still have 5K of km to go on; of course, I have no idea when your 36 started.
Wow, that's interesting, because apparently my warranty needed at 60,000km, it's what 2 seperate dealers told me. Which I think is nuts, because 60,000km is nothing...
 

DukeCanBuildit

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Are you sure that you're out of warranty? I just had to look at mine for an issue that I'm having, and term warranty is 36mths/100K km. Given that we're in the same province and that I didn't take an extended warranty, you should still have 5K of km to go on; of course, I have no idea when your 36 started.
Wow, that's interesting, because apparently my warranty needed at 60,000km, it's what 2 seperate dealers told me. Which I think is nuts, because 60,000km is nothing...
You Canuckleheads,

You’re mixing up up your Basic and Powertrain warranties…

IMG_5430.jpeg


Or should we rename them “Blend Door” and “Transmission” warranties? 😉
 

Rp930

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Not sure I’ve ever even tried the E brake.
 


Motorpsychology

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I use my parking brake every time in both the '21 Ranger and the '09 Mariner. I always select a carwash that includes an under spray. Both vehicles get washed about twice a month, and the Mariner's foot-operated parking brake has worked flawlessly since new.

It took getting torque locked a couple times to start using it always. Once was on a hill and my buddies and I couldn't rock it enough to take the strain off of the transmission. There was a pay phone near, and one of my buddies called his dad, who came out and was able to push and hold my "63 Plymouth an inch or so and I got it free. The whole ordeal took two hours.

Personally I druther use my two rear brakes to hold my 4400 lb Ranger on a hill than this thing:
2019-2023 Ford Ranger Parking Pawl
s-l1600.jpg


Ford 10R80 Parking pawl operation:
e9686848-pawl-in-notin-park_0go07a0gn079000000001-1.png
 

LaBalbe

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You Canuckleheads,

You’re mixing up up your Basic and Powertrain warranties…

IMG_5430.jpeg


Or should we rename them “Blend Door” and “Transmission” warranties? 😉
I bought mine CPO from a Ford dealership, but it didn't have that fancy window sticker. I'm just going off of what's noted on my "Time of Sale Plan" from the dealership:

20231124_101746.jpg
 

Motorpsychology

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I bought mine CPO from a Ford dealership, but it didn't have that fancy window sticker. I'm just going off of what's noted on my "Time of Sale Plan" from the dealership:

20231124_101746.jpg
That is the top coverage and shortest term Ford extended warranty, I believe. See your dealer; it probably covers the parking brake minus a deductible, assuming the truck is still in the plan's term.
 

LaBalbe

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That is the top coverage and shortest term Ford extended warranty, I believe. See your dealer; it probably covers the parking brake minus a deductible, assuming the truck is still in the plan's term.
The parking brake issue belongs to @Jacksonlucas1312 . I'm in for multiple oil leaks, which are fortunately still covered (I'm nearly at 24 months & just over 78K), but sure enough, I've got a $100 deductible on the job.
 

Frenchy

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Wow, that's interesting, because apparently my warranty needed at 60,000km, it's what 2 seperate dealers told me. Which I think is nuts, because 60,000km is nothing...
So that is what we call the Bumper to Bumper Warranty. After that is up you only have powertrain coverage
 

Grandaccess

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I almost never use mine, maybe if I have a trailer on that has some weight to it ...
 

Lone

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OK, dumb question. If Ford thought they could get rid of it and save a nickle, would not it be gone? :rolleyes:
 

ccasanova22

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If you ever get air in the brake lines, and the pedal goes to the floor (and I mean sunk into the floor with no chance of stopping in time), the e-brake is literally a lifesaver. Had to use it this week after a brake bleed mishap resulted in running the master cylinder dry.
 

DukeCanBuildit

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I bought mine CPO from a Ford dealership, but it didn't have that fancy window sticker. I'm just going off of what's noted on my "Time of Sale Plan" from the dealership:

20231124_101746.jpg
That seems like a decent plan when buying previously owned - not big on that deductible but it sure beats putting full bogey on a big repair. 👍
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