pboggini
Well-Known Member
- First Name
- Pete
- Joined
- Nov 30, 2018
- Threads
- 10
- Messages
- 194
- Reaction score
- 201
- Location
- San Jose, CA
- Vehicle(s)
- 2019 Lightning Blue XL Ranger 4x2 Supercrew.
- Thread starter
- #1
Inspired by Floyd's https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/members/floyd.678/ two posts:
https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/dash-tray-removal.3178/
and
https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/in-console-usb-power.3220/
I visited the mentioned EBay seller and bought this:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Waterproof-Dual-USB-Charger-Socket-Outlet-3-1-amp-Panel-Mount-Jack-Motorcycle/121459789583?_trkparms=aid=1110001&algo=SPLICE.SIM&ao=1&asc=20131231084308&meid=a61d7bb83f45436aabd98fb8d236b125&pid=100010&rk=6&rkt=12&sd=122045952660&itm=121459789583&_trksid=p2047675.c100010.m2109
I didn't want to drill any holes as I figured I really didn't need the 12V outlets I actually needed USB outlets. So this was my prototype to and I figured it was successful I could then replace the other two (I have an XL/STX which has the single USB attached to the radio that has a 32G flash drive in it and three [two in front, one in back] 12V "lighter style" ports) at a later date.
Today I set out to replace it. As Floyd mentions, you just open the fuse box by pulling on this (Image 1) and opening it. Then you open the glove box. You now have access to the left (Image 2) and right (Image 3) panels which can be pried out by using something plastic. I chose some bike tire irons (Pedro's as they are the wider ones) to pry things apart w/o scratching them. The panels are held in by around 5 snap connectors and they actually pull straight out. Once that's done, you can get access to the 7mm bolts (they are 7mm even though 9/32 fits too but 9/32 is a bit larger and I worried about rounding off the heads). Once you remove the 7mm bolts you can then pry the panel out as there are 4 snap connectors holding that in in addition to the bolts.
Here is the video that shows pulling the panels but doesn't show the prying of them. I started at the top near the center of the truck and pried and was able to move down. Once I got about half way down, they popped out pretty easily.
The last image is the results. I have a couple of iPhones so the bottom is generally used for the phone that I'm using for navigation and the other is for the other phone. In a test drive, the navigating phone charged up while navigating which is my test to make sure it's getting enough juice. The other one that was in the drink holder also charged up on the 1A but it was sleeping and not doing much else.
I think my next step will be to get another one of those 1A/2A ports and then one maybe something like this to put on the drivers side:
https://www.amazon.com/Charger-CHGe...usb+car+plugs&qid=1560027988&s=gateway&sr=8-5
That way I'd have two USB ports and the voltage on the drivers side, a 1A/2A on the passenger side and a 1A/2A in the back. I might see if i can find a double 2A for the back though.
Honestly the hardest parts were 1) getting the 12V socket out who damaging a lot of the plastic as they are in there tight. I just pulled the entire thing out w/o pulling the metal part out first. Maybe that was a problem? The second toughest thing was figuring out how I was going to wire them w/o cutting any wires. I ended up getting some spade connectors and making a little jump harness out of two female spade connectors, 2 small pieces of 14ga wire (black and red) and two male spade connectors that I had to cut in half as the factory ones are 1/8" rather than the more common 1/4". I'd love to find the connector that matches the socket side and make a harness that plugs into the factory harness but I think the spade connectors pushed in are likely fine for now. I might bug some parts people to see if they can help me find the right connector. The last challenge was that since the stock panel has such a steep angle that on the top the nut won't bottom out. My first attempt was to file the tabs on the nut at an angle to help which made it closer. I then added the rubber washer that was included and that got close. I ended up taking a 45 degree 3/4" PVC connector and cutting off about 1/8". Then I had to file out the inside. I definitely need to check out Home Depot/Lowes for the proper size plastic washer/spacer for the other side.
Thank Floyd for the inspiration!
https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/dash-tray-removal.3178/
and
https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/in-console-usb-power.3220/
I visited the mentioned EBay seller and bought this:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Waterproof-Dual-USB-Charger-Socket-Outlet-3-1-amp-Panel-Mount-Jack-Motorcycle/121459789583?_trkparms=aid=1110001&algo=SPLICE.SIM&ao=1&asc=20131231084308&meid=a61d7bb83f45436aabd98fb8d236b125&pid=100010&rk=6&rkt=12&sd=122045952660&itm=121459789583&_trksid=p2047675.c100010.m2109
I didn't want to drill any holes as I figured I really didn't need the 12V outlets I actually needed USB outlets. So this was my prototype to and I figured it was successful I could then replace the other two (I have an XL/STX which has the single USB attached to the radio that has a 32G flash drive in it and three [two in front, one in back] 12V "lighter style" ports) at a later date.
Today I set out to replace it. As Floyd mentions, you just open the fuse box by pulling on this (Image 1) and opening it. Then you open the glove box. You now have access to the left (Image 2) and right (Image 3) panels which can be pried out by using something plastic. I chose some bike tire irons (Pedro's as they are the wider ones) to pry things apart w/o scratching them. The panels are held in by around 5 snap connectors and they actually pull straight out. Once that's done, you can get access to the 7mm bolts (they are 7mm even though 9/32 fits too but 9/32 is a bit larger and I worried about rounding off the heads). Once you remove the 7mm bolts you can then pry the panel out as there are 4 snap connectors holding that in in addition to the bolts.
Here is the video that shows pulling the panels but doesn't show the prying of them. I started at the top near the center of the truck and pried and was able to move down. Once I got about half way down, they popped out pretty easily.
The last image is the results. I have a couple of iPhones so the bottom is generally used for the phone that I'm using for navigation and the other is for the other phone. In a test drive, the navigating phone charged up while navigating which is my test to make sure it's getting enough juice. The other one that was in the drink holder also charged up on the 1A but it was sleeping and not doing much else.
I think my next step will be to get another one of those 1A/2A ports and then one maybe something like this to put on the drivers side:
https://www.amazon.com/Charger-CHGe...usb+car+plugs&qid=1560027988&s=gateway&sr=8-5
That way I'd have two USB ports and the voltage on the drivers side, a 1A/2A on the passenger side and a 1A/2A in the back. I might see if i can find a double 2A for the back though.
Honestly the hardest parts were 1) getting the 12V socket out who damaging a lot of the plastic as they are in there tight. I just pulled the entire thing out w/o pulling the metal part out first. Maybe that was a problem? The second toughest thing was figuring out how I was going to wire them w/o cutting any wires. I ended up getting some spade connectors and making a little jump harness out of two female spade connectors, 2 small pieces of 14ga wire (black and red) and two male spade connectors that I had to cut in half as the factory ones are 1/8" rather than the more common 1/4". I'd love to find the connector that matches the socket side and make a harness that plugs into the factory harness but I think the spade connectors pushed in are likely fine for now. I might bug some parts people to see if they can help me find the right connector. The last challenge was that since the stock panel has such a steep angle that on the top the nut won't bottom out. My first attempt was to file the tabs on the nut at an angle to help which made it closer. I then added the rubber washer that was included and that got close. I ended up taking a 45 degree 3/4" PVC connector and cutting off about 1/8". Then I had to file out the inside. I definitely need to check out Home Depot/Lowes for the proper size plastic washer/spacer for the other side.
Thank Floyd for the inspiration!
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