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Replace the fuel tank to replace low pressure pump?

airline tech

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I dunno. I recently replaced my fuel pump in my 2005 Ranger. The pump was also spring loaded and had to be pushed down. My 2005 had a steel locking plate that had to be wrenched past detents to lock it in place.

I have seen earlier gen Rangers with the same plastic threaded cap that the video shows. These were gasoline tanks, not diesel. But those pumps went into 25+ year old tanks that showed no signs of stretching, and the fellow used the original cap ring nut.

I guess anything is possible, but I do not think the US NTSB would allow an automobile on the street with a tank that becomes brittle with age, and is prone to swelling and cracking. That is a BIG red flag.

I would think Ireland would have similar safety protocols. But again, anything is possible.

Best of luck!
If you pay attention to the video - the narrator say's apply diesel to the seal, so this is a diesel pump and tank. Is this the exact pump and tank as the OP has installed IDK but it was something that popped up and found quickly google searching for a reference design of the tank.
This is the only logical thing that I can conclude of the threads being damaged during removal, now it also factors in (since we cannot see it) Can the nut be obtained separately like the US version metal lock ring that locks into the grooves imbedded in the tank?
It may be the case of - you need the nut, you have to buy the tank
This is Ford, just like the Clutch Fan Hose - it is not sold separately
I would think the Tank Threads would be a stronger material than the nut, and it may be possible the nut (if obtainable) could be all it needs but still the plastic threads were most likely stressed during removal and the safest thing to do (fume & pressure) sealing wise is to replace the tank.

I just know that the pumps I have replaced (In-Tank) and GM's there is a fair amount of spring tension you are fighting against, and it is helpful to have a helper push down on the pump to get it seated and evenly set in order to get that lock ring to engage.
So, I am translating that tension from a metal lock ring to a plastic nut & plastic threads I can see the threads easily stressed out and the nut cutting new threads as it was being backed off.
That is what I believe happened, now the threads are all angled upwards and appear swollen.
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RangerBill

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If you pay attention to the video - the narrator say's apply diesel to the seal, so this is a diesel pump and tank. Is this the exact pump and tank as the OP has installed IDK but it was something that popped up and found quickly google searching for a reference design of the tank.
This is the only logical thing that I can conclude of the threads being damaged during removal, now it also factors in (since we cannot see it) Can the nut be obtained separately like the US version metal lock ring that locks into the grooves imbedded in the tank?
It may be the case of - you need the nut, you have to buy the tank
This is Ford, just like the Clutch Fan Hose - it is not sold separately
I would think the Tank Threads would be a stronger material than the nut, and it may be possible the nut (if obtainable) could be all it needs but still the plastic threads were most likely stressed during removal and the safest thing to do (fume & pressure) sealing wise is to replace the tank.

I just know that the pumps I have replaced (In-Tank) and GM's there is a fair amount of spring tension you are fighting against, and it is helpful to have a helper push down on the pump to get it seated and evenly set in order to get that lock ring to engage.
So, I am translating that tension from a metal lock ring to a plastic nut & plastic threads I can see the threads easily stressed out and the nut cutting new threads as it was being backed off.
That is what I believe happened, now the threads are all angled upwards and appear swollen.
I just replaced the in-tank fuel pump on my 2003 Ford Windstar this year. It had the plastic ring to secure it to the tank like in your video. The threads were very robust, and I had no issues with any damage to them. I also reused the plastic ring to secure the pump. My 2019 has a metal locking ring that uses a bayonet type of mount in the tank (according to the shop manual). I am puzzled that the OP's fuel tank needed to be replaced along with the fuel pump.
 

TJC

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If you pay attention to the video - the narrator say's apply diesel to the seal, so this is a diesel pump and tank. Is this the exact pump and tank as the OP has installed IDK but it was something that popped up and found quickly google searching for a reference design of the tank.
This is the only logical thing that I can conclude of the threads being damaged during removal, now it also factors in (since we cannot see it) Can the nut be obtained separately like the US version metal lock ring that locks into the grooves imbedded in the tank?
It may be the case of - you need the nut, you have to buy the tank
This is Ford, just like the Clutch Fan Hose - it is not sold separately
I would think the Tank Threads would be a stronger material than the nut, and it may be possible the nut (if obtainable) could be all it needs but still the plastic threads were most likely stressed during removal and the safest thing to do (fume & pressure) sealing wise is to replace the tank.

I just know that the pumps I have replaced (In-Tank) and GM's there is a fair amount of spring tension you are fighting against, and it is helpful to have a helper push down on the pump to get it seated and evenly set in order to get that lock ring to engage.
So, I am translating that tension from a metal lock ring to a plastic nut & plastic threads I can see the threads easily stressed out and the nut cutting new threads as it was being backed off.
That is what I believe happened, now the threads are all angled upwards and appear swollen.
I did indeed pay attention to the video and to what you wrote. I'm just not sure I'm buying what you're selling.

You may be absolutely correct. But there is just as good a possibility that you may be incorrect. And the OP will not know until he personally takes a good close look at the tank and nut.

The pump that went into my 2005 stuck out the opening a couple of inches. It wasn't difficult to push down, but it did take a bit of dexterity to push it down and keep it down while placing the lock plate over the top and spin it enough to insure the plate didn't fly off. Getting it past the detent to lock took a 4' bar extension on a 30" breaker bar. And when it popped into place it laid me out across the tank top. I used a specialty tool to lock it. Tried to do it with a 5lb sledge to no avail.

Time will tell... until then all we have is conjecture.
 

TJC

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No harm no foul here I could be wrong and have been wrong before - and will admit when I'm wrong. (except to the wife) :LOL:
No need for anything. I respect your judgement. You've been right far more than wrong, and your reasoning is always sound. And you may very well be correct this time around.

I simply find this instance very suspicious.
 


OP
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Looking at the video and also the fact these tanks seem to have been used for a number of years (and yes it is the same tank), I can only think they have damaged the threads either by using incorrect tools or not enough downward pressure. I’m going to look at the tank Monday, but I do think they are trying to take me for a ride as that retaining “nut” is definitely not “single use” as they claimed
 

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awd.nv

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Looking at the video and also the fact these tanks seem to have been used for a number of years (and yes it is the same tank), I can only think they have damaged the threads either by using incorrect tools or not enough downward pressure. I’m going to look at the tank Monday, but I do think they are trying to take me for a ride as that retaining “nut” is definitely not “single use” as they claimed
Man, I would happen to agree with you, the advisor may just be repeating what the tech told them who is trying to cover their butt. I would forward them the linked video and ask them where do they see a single use nut (assuming that is exactly like yours). Prepare the advisor ahead of time by saying you would like the foreman present.

If you are the original owner you can use the argument that no one ever had this apart so their tech damaged it, whether unknowingly or intentionally hiding it, the part is not single use and they damaged it so they should be responsible.

Perhaps if there is a known local shop that works on Rangers or Fords, they can be your advocate and be there with you for a reasonable fee.

Good luck!
 

Cmar

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Never heard of that here and our Ranger would be closer to yours than perhaps the NA one, but I guess it come down to what it was like after they removed it, if it got broken then I guess it was "single use". Of course I can't imagine that a dealership mechanic would use the same level of care removing it that you or I would. The diff drain and fill plugs are supposed to be "single use" too but lo, I put some Teflon pipe sealer on mine when I changed the oil and now they're multi use!
 

Cmar

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So the report i received from the workshop controller is

REMOVED FUEL TANK. REMOVED FUEL PUMP & PLASTIC NUT. THREADS SWELLED SO NUT
WOULD NOT SCREW BACK ON.

Does this make any sense to anybody?
Lube thread and try harder!
 

Cmar

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No harm no foul here I could be wrong and have been wrong before - and will admit when I'm wrong. (except to the wife) :LOL:
You don't have to admit that you're wrong to your wife - you just are!
 

airline tech

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I did some Google searching and it appears that the nut style locking rings tend to shrink once they are removed from the tank, heating them up with heat gun or hot water helps in reinstalling.
And the tank side threads - soften and warp and become egg-shaped.
So, when you go to reinstall, you are fighting against this issue.
Granted I do not remember ever changing a fuel pump with this style of locking ring it always had the metal locking collar style.

So, either way the dealer is reporting a thread issue, and I personally feel they are being honest, and this was not a Tech (misstep) and it is something that is design related of the plastic style cap and threads and fuel fumes over time or as I previously stated tension related thread damage during backing off the nut on weakened (softened) threads
Can this possibly be fixed with a new cap only (it is possible) if the tank threads are not damaged and FORD offers a cap only (part) they will not use an Amazon part.

I am confident that 1 of the 2 possible issues are the cause and it could possibly be enhanced by the Diesel Fuel Tank.
I believe the statement (ONE TIME USE) is meant to mean that once they come off, you cannot get them back on - due to the above issues. As for my manual searches do not put that statement in the ones, I searched that have the plastic threaded ring it may have that statement in their manual, but I highly doubt that it actually states it.
This is going to fall in the category of technician running into the issue and another tech chimes in and says (in his previous) experience of running into the same issue and the easiest thing to do it replace the tank assembly rather that fight it.

So, it boils down to - Is the Tank Threads proven to be damaged or is it only the nut and will only a nut replacement seal the tank (can it be screwed down tight enough) to properly seal the tank.
From a mechanics perspective they want to replace the tank to ensure you won't come back for complaints of smelling fumes and fuel pressure issues along with EVAP issues that all tie into that pump seal.
Then they have to pull the tank again and this time they will replace the tank as that would be the only option (if they only try replacing the cap)
I am thinking as a mechanic here, do the job right the first time even it is cost more money, it's better than doing the job a second time.
Plus - As in Aviation, transfers over to Automotive - SAFETY FIRST
 
OP
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I am fairly sure that it is the threads on the tank that they are saying are distorted.

What I cannot understand is that I have now found a number of videos where the plastic retaining ring has been reused and fits without issue. It would appear that this is the same tank as used from 2012+ model, so you would think that if there is diesel/fume issue, then some of these older tanks would prone to the same issue as they have been exposed to the diesel/fumes for longer!

Also, given that the threads and the tank are the same material, I cannot see Ford allowing tanks with softening materials, that would be a major safety recall.

If it is not mechanic error, then it can only be classified as a defective tank.

I am awaiting contact from Ford Ireland for their opinion on the matter, but either way if a new tank is required I feel either Ford Ireland or the dealership should be paying for it.
 

Cmar

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I am fairly sure that it is the threads on the tank that they are saying are distorted.

What I cannot understand is that I have now found a number of videos where the plastic retaining ring has been reused and fits without issue. It would appear that this is the same tank as used from 2012+ model, so you would think that if there is diesel/fume issue, then some of these older tanks would prone to the same issue as they have been exposed to the diesel/fumes for longer!

Also, given that the threads and the tank are the same material, I cannot see Ford allowing tanks with softening materials, that would be a major safety recall.

If it is not mechanic error, then it can only be classified as a defective tank.

I am awaiting contact from Ford Ireland for their opinion on the matter, but either way if a new tank is required I feel either Ford Ireland or the dealership should be paying for it.
Also consider that the threads are on the outside of the tank, providing the sealing ring is doing it's job, they should never be exposed to diesel. And yes a fuel tank which isn't 100% impervious to fuel is unthinkable.
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