Regearing with larger tires?

Finality2020

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Even if we had to worry about re-gearing the final drive there are no kits avalible at this time to change the gears. A pain yes but the truth. Also I am currently running 265/70-17 on my truck with the Old Man EMU lift with the Livernois Tow Tune and my MPG can still be pretty good depending on conditions. Depending on conditions I can also toss the MPG right out the window too!!
The rear axel is a dana m220 or m200. The m220 comes in the jeep gladiator so I am sure if you get ahold of a ring and pinon provider they can make something work. I am looking to lock my rear at least and the Australian market rangers have been locked for years. I am sure it is doable.
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Finality2020

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There is a possibility(key word) that if you install an e-locker rear axle with the switch and activate it in Forscan then it should work. Only a Hypothesis but I do not belive it has been confirmed.
New to newer ford trucks. What is forscan?
 

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The rear axel is a dana m220 or m200. The xm220 comes in the jeep gladiator so I am sure if you get ahold of a ring and pinon provider they can make something work. I am looking to lock my rear at least and the Australian market rangers have been locked for years. I am sure it is doable.
Out of curiosity what size tire do you plan on installing on your truck? I ask because there are members on here(a select few) that run 35's and dont have much issue with the gearing. I'm still running 32's and it does just fine.
 

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New to newer ford trucks. What is forscan?
A very cool programming tool where you can change the operation of you Ford vehicle by changine settings in various modules. If you are computer savvy then you can have a lot of fun.
 

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I'm pretty sure someone has swapped rear axles with the E locker and just wired it to a switch. Can't remember if it was on here or the FB group though.
 


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I'm pretty sure someone has swapped rear axles with the E locker and just wired it to a switch. Can't remember if it was on here or the FB group though.
Honestly that sounds like a better idea since Ford programming has the e-locker shut off at a certain speed.
 

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Are any of you regearing when increasing your tire size to compensate for the added height/weight?

From what I can find on here, stock FX4 size is ~30.4" and people are fitting 32" so the difference may not be enough to worry about. But I also know that the factory always gears towards highway MPG vs. performance.
The 10 speed really helps out on these trucks. with 32's you still have a very slow crawl speed (and engine braking speed downhill), and absolutely no trouble on the highway.

Like someone else I think already mentioned, there are many people running 35's with stock gears and still indicate there are no issues at all with gearing.
 

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I struggle with this.. I installed 33” Cooper S/T Maxx 10 ply tires and my fuel economy plummeted as well as my overall performance of the truck. But I do live in the mountains at 4100’ and I work in town at 500’ with a commute of 35 miles each way. I do not run any engine tuner. I found 10th gear to be practically not useable unless I was going slightly downhill. Which I believe contributed to my 6-7mpg fuel loss.

I removed those tires after 5000 miles and sold them. Bought some 31” 6 ply mud terrain tires and now have only lost about 2 mpg off what the stock tires gave me for fuel mileage. So.. could re-gearing of helped me run 33” E rated tires without destroying fuel economy?? Or was it a combination of tire size and heavier tire? I’m not really sure but I think it would’ve helped a bit
 

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I struggle with this.. I installed 33” Cooper S/T Maxx 10 ply tires and my fuel economy plummeted as well as my overall performance of the truck. But I do live in the mountains at 4100’ and I work in town at 500’ with a commute of 35 miles each way. I do not run any engine tuner. I found 10th gear to be practically not useable unless I was going slightly downhill. Which I believe contributed to my 6-7mpg fuel loss.

I removed those tires after 5000 miles and sold them. Bought some 31” 6 ply mud terrain tires and now have only lost about 2 mpg off what the stock tires gave me for fuel mileage. So.. could re-gearing of helped me run 33” E rated tires without destroying fuel economy?? Or was it a combination of tire size and heavier tire? I’m not really sure but I think it would’ve helped a bit
For you a nice tune would have helped you out a bit. Also be aware that mud terrains affect fuel mileage more than all terrains.
 

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Rotational weight has a HUGE effect on performance.. the general rule of thumb is 3 pounds = 1hp. So another 80lb is sapping pretty well over 20hp.

It would be much more noticeable on a transmission with a "normal" number of gears. The 4.7:1 first gear ratio really helps hide any loss in performance.. but its definitely there.
 

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I struggle with this.. I installed 33” Cooper S/T Maxx 10 ply tires and my fuel economy plummeted as well as my overall performance of the truck. But I do live in the mountains at 4100’ and I work in town at 500’ with a commute of 35 miles each way. I do not run any engine tuner. I found 10th gear to be practically not useable unless I was going slightly downhill. Which I believe contributed to my 6-7mpg fuel loss.

I removed those tires after 5000 miles and sold them. Bought some 31” 6 ply mud terrain tires and now have only lost about 2 mpg off what the stock tires gave me for fuel mileage. So.. could re-gearing of helped me run 33” E rated tires without destroying fuel economy?? Or was it a combination of tire size and heavier tire? I’m not really sure but I think it would’ve helped a bit
A 10ply 33" added a ton of weight to your wheel and tire assembly, 10plys are going to have really bad rolling resistance especially if you didn't run them at a much higher pressure than placard and then the ride comfort would be awful and still wouldn't get you back many MPG. Could regear help some? Maybe but you're still constantly accelerating and slowing down a much higher mass plus the higher rolling resistance.
 

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Considering that the ring is welded on, it takes a bunch of lift, and cutting to fit 35's, and the combination of 1 and 2 makes it very expensive to "need" a gear set, I doubt any gear companies will build a drop in carrier (except ARB) for the Ranger at a reasonable price.

Maybe once people start getting Gladiator axles in the junk yards, we will get some information on whether or not we can use their carrier (as I'm sure Jeep didn't do a stupid and weld in the ring).
 

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I struggle with this.. I installed 33” Cooper S/T Maxx 10 ply tires and my fuel economy plummeted as well as my overall performance of the truck....
You did not mention if you reprogrammed the computer to identify the change to the new tire diameter. So my question is if you used the odometer to calculate the miles you drove? Because that number will be off. If you don’t reconfigure the speedo the indicated driving speed is also off.

Because the speedo is off and your driving a auto trans, all the shift points are off so your trans is rarely in the correct gear. And with a 10 speed I bet as soon as you touch the accelerator you dropped a gear or two instantly.

So if you simply add larger diameter tires and keep stock dimensions in the computer your mileage and mpg numbers are not true. Going to MT will be a minimal decrease. Adding a couple pounds for a tire is a minimal issue. They all add up but not the death sentence some people bring up to MPG. If it was then you would not see lifted Jeeps on the road. And wranglers have weaker engines and much smaller transmissions. I got 16 mpg with 35” and 3.73 ratio and at 87,000 miles on my daily driver. That was down from the original 20mpg on 29” tires but I also added a couple hundred pounds of steel bumpers, armor, lift, etc. My speedo is 100% accurate and real numbers.

10 ply vs 6 ply etc, E rated vs other rated will be a ride comfort difference not a drastic decrease to mpg difference. I would estimate going from 30.5 to 33” tires you would loose 3 mpg and that is expected.
 

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You did not mention if you reprogrammed the computer to identify the change to the new tire diameter. So my question is if you used the odometer to calculate the miles you drove? Because that number will be off. If you don’t reconfigure the speedo the indicated driving speed is also off.

Because the speedo is off and your driving a auto trans, all the shift points are off so your trans is rarely in the correct gear. And with a 10 speed I bet as soon as you touch the accelerator you dropped a gear or two instantly.

So if you simply add larger diameter tires and keep stock dimensions in the computer your mileage and mpg numbers are not true. Going to MT will be a minimal decrease. Adding a couple pounds for a tire is a minimal issue. They all add up but not the death sentence some people bring up to MPG. If it was then you would not see lifted Jeeps on the road. And wranglers have weaker engines and much smaller transmissions. I got 16 mpg with 35” and 3.73 ratio and at 87,000 miles on my daily driver. That was down from the original 20mpg on 29” tires but I also added a couple hundred pounds of steel bumpers, armor, lift, etc. My speedo is 100% accurate and real numbers.

10 ply vs 6 ply etc, E rated vs other rated will be a ride comfort difference not a drastic decrease to mpg difference. I would estimate going from 30.5 to 33” tires you would loose 3 mpg and that is expected.
This is correct although once up to speed I would shift to “S” and shift on my own so it wouldn’t hunt for gears. I still had a pretty huge loss in fuel economy. My bank account noted it for me..
 

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This is correct although once up to speed I would shift to “S” and shift on my own so it wouldn’t hunt for gears. I still had a pretty huge loss in fuel economy. My bank account noted it for me..
Whats your definition of huge and how did you calculate it? Did you just look at the display for ave mpg? If you didn’t reconfig the speedometer your looking at non real numbers.
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