KingsPoint75
Member
- Thread starter
- #1
I may be the only person who doesn't trust the front bumper radar for parking close to something in front of the truck. I walked by a License Plate Camera at COSTCO the other day and stopped to see how it worked. It was wireless and Solar!
It is intended to go on as a backup camera but I discovered that it has a switch to flip the picture on the monitor (not noted on the box!) so that it works facing forward. Now I can see how close I am when I'm inching up to a shallow parking spot.
BILL OF PARTS
1 Ford front license plate holder (may be installed already, should have been included when you bought the truck).
2 #10-24 x 1" stainless steel screws (3/4" is too short. You may need longer screws but if they are too long they will rub on the bumper cover)
2 #10-24 stainless steel lock nuts (stainless steel washers may be needed to prevent the screws from pulling through the camera bracket which has large holes)
2 LARGE (2.5 Lb.) Command adhesive strips
1 wireless backup camera and monitor (I used a TypeS brand HD Quick-Connect Wireless Solar Powered Backup Camera, WP ITM. BT56208)
Alcohol wipes OR rubbing alcohol and paper towels to clean the mounting area.
1 Stainless steel emergency signaling mirror (you don't need this, but I had an old one and it's the perfect size to fit in the dashboard tray over the ribs). You can substitute a plastic flat of some sort if that's all you have but the signaling mirrors are sold in any sporting goods store.
INSTALLATION
If the plate holder isn't installed, there are two slots that engage the plastic J-Hooks on the frame and two screws that go through the holes on the second set of plastic tabs. Center it up, put your finger into the bumper slot to locate the slots and push the plate in until the J-Hooks snap into the slots. Then fasten the screws to secure the plate holder in place. It's a PITA but it works.
Charge the Monitor overnight. AND, look at the very bottom of the frame on the camera for a plastic cover. Gently pry open the end with a tab to expose the USB (micro) plugin. Charge the solar frame overnight as well. It doesn't tell you to charge the frame in the manual!
Line up your license plate (if using one) with the lower Hooks in the plate holder and slide them down into it. My old personalized plate had an embossed edge that made it too thick to insert. I took it to the vice and flattened those two spots so that it fit. I also painted the old plate so I didn't get accused of something shady. My state only requires a rear plate. When you have the plate aligned with the holes above and secure on the bottom in the hooks, line your camera frame up with the holes in the plate and holder and insert your fasteners and tighten them up. Now the plate and the camera are secured.
If you don't want to use the plastic disk that the monitor mount secures to, you'll need to use a flat piece to secure the suction cup to. Since the tray on the dash is ribbed, I used a signaling mirror. (That's also why I didn't use the plastic disk that was included) I cleaned the mirror with automotive finish cleaner (not wax) and rubbed it until it was shiny. Then I washed and rubbed dry on both sides. Use alcohol wipes or rubbing alcohol and paper towels to clean the tray on the dash.
Take 2 large Command Adhesive strips and fasten the wall side ON TOP of the ribs going in the direction of the ribs (fore and aft). (you might want to trial fit them before you pull the adhesive cover off of the wall side of each strip) Put the dead end of the strips on the aft side (driver/passenger side) and leave the pull tab out from under the mirror (or plastic)in front. If you use all of the ribs, it's overkill. The two outer ends should be sufficient. Hold the strips down for a minute or so, so that they adhere. You can see the installation with the strips hanging out on the picture "Baseplate installed."
Check fit the mirror again and then pull the adhesive covers off of the other side of the Command strips. Then place the mirror on and hold it down for a minute or so. Leave it alone for at least an hour so the adhesive on both sides sets up.
After everything has set up, pull the tab up on the suction cup and secure the mount on the mirror. Place the magnetic monitor on the mount. Plug the monitor in to power (the USB on the Ranger works fine, as does the cigarette lighter). Use the setup menu to flip the monitor (there are several versions, try them until you see the correct picture) and save your setup.
COMMENTS
There are brightness settings, a direction grid and the aforementioned display position alterations. The direction (parking) grid can be shortened up or lengthened to meet your needs. I shortened it up to the minimum so I can judge distance more accurately in a parking lot.
The camera has a solar panel on the bottom. That's the wireless part. The monitor has to be powered via USB or via the cigarette lighter. It could be hard wired.
The camera turns on automatically when power is applied when you start the truck. Since the Ranger's power goes off ten minutes after you shut it off, you don't need to turn it off, it won't discharge the battery. You can wake the camera up after it's on by waving at it or by hitting a button.
The camera frame sticks out a bit more than I would prefer. Since the mount is plastic, you could rig another mount and trim off the upper regions of the frame so it could be tucked into the grill. Too much effort for me.
It works well for me. Your mileage may vary.
See the pictures for an idea of what it looks like installed. The picture with the box (generator) in front of the truck shows the grid at its shortest. The genset is about 1 foot from the front bumper and both orange lights on the truck's monitor are on at that distance. The picture of the park has the grid at its longest. Since I'm not using it as a backup aid, and I won't use it as an aid while driving on the road, I use the short setting.
It is intended to go on as a backup camera but I discovered that it has a switch to flip the picture on the monitor (not noted on the box!) so that it works facing forward. Now I can see how close I am when I'm inching up to a shallow parking spot.
BILL OF PARTS
1 Ford front license plate holder (may be installed already, should have been included when you bought the truck).
2 #10-24 x 1" stainless steel screws (3/4" is too short. You may need longer screws but if they are too long they will rub on the bumper cover)
2 #10-24 stainless steel lock nuts (stainless steel washers may be needed to prevent the screws from pulling through the camera bracket which has large holes)
2 LARGE (2.5 Lb.) Command adhesive strips
1 wireless backup camera and monitor (I used a TypeS brand HD Quick-Connect Wireless Solar Powered Backup Camera, WP ITM. BT56208)
Alcohol wipes OR rubbing alcohol and paper towels to clean the mounting area.
1 Stainless steel emergency signaling mirror (you don't need this, but I had an old one and it's the perfect size to fit in the dashboard tray over the ribs). You can substitute a plastic flat of some sort if that's all you have but the signaling mirrors are sold in any sporting goods store.
INSTALLATION
If the plate holder isn't installed, there are two slots that engage the plastic J-Hooks on the frame and two screws that go through the holes on the second set of plastic tabs. Center it up, put your finger into the bumper slot to locate the slots and push the plate in until the J-Hooks snap into the slots. Then fasten the screws to secure the plate holder in place. It's a PITA but it works.
Charge the Monitor overnight. AND, look at the very bottom of the frame on the camera for a plastic cover. Gently pry open the end with a tab to expose the USB (micro) plugin. Charge the solar frame overnight as well. It doesn't tell you to charge the frame in the manual!
Line up your license plate (if using one) with the lower Hooks in the plate holder and slide them down into it. My old personalized plate had an embossed edge that made it too thick to insert. I took it to the vice and flattened those two spots so that it fit. I also painted the old plate so I didn't get accused of something shady. My state only requires a rear plate. When you have the plate aligned with the holes above and secure on the bottom in the hooks, line your camera frame up with the holes in the plate and holder and insert your fasteners and tighten them up. Now the plate and the camera are secured.
If you don't want to use the plastic disk that the monitor mount secures to, you'll need to use a flat piece to secure the suction cup to. Since the tray on the dash is ribbed, I used a signaling mirror. (That's also why I didn't use the plastic disk that was included) I cleaned the mirror with automotive finish cleaner (not wax) and rubbed it until it was shiny. Then I washed and rubbed dry on both sides. Use alcohol wipes or rubbing alcohol and paper towels to clean the tray on the dash.
Take 2 large Command Adhesive strips and fasten the wall side ON TOP of the ribs going in the direction of the ribs (fore and aft). (you might want to trial fit them before you pull the adhesive cover off of the wall side of each strip) Put the dead end of the strips on the aft side (driver/passenger side) and leave the pull tab out from under the mirror (or plastic)in front. If you use all of the ribs, it's overkill. The two outer ends should be sufficient. Hold the strips down for a minute or so, so that they adhere. You can see the installation with the strips hanging out on the picture "Baseplate installed."
Check fit the mirror again and then pull the adhesive covers off of the other side of the Command strips. Then place the mirror on and hold it down for a minute or so. Leave it alone for at least an hour so the adhesive on both sides sets up.
After everything has set up, pull the tab up on the suction cup and secure the mount on the mirror. Place the magnetic monitor on the mount. Plug the monitor in to power (the USB on the Ranger works fine, as does the cigarette lighter). Use the setup menu to flip the monitor (there are several versions, try them until you see the correct picture) and save your setup.
COMMENTS
There are brightness settings, a direction grid and the aforementioned display position alterations. The direction (parking) grid can be shortened up or lengthened to meet your needs. I shortened it up to the minimum so I can judge distance more accurately in a parking lot.
The camera has a solar panel on the bottom. That's the wireless part. The monitor has to be powered via USB or via the cigarette lighter. It could be hard wired.
The camera turns on automatically when power is applied when you start the truck. Since the Ranger's power goes off ten minutes after you shut it off, you don't need to turn it off, it won't discharge the battery. You can wake the camera up after it's on by waving at it or by hitting a button.
The camera frame sticks out a bit more than I would prefer. Since the mount is plastic, you could rig another mount and trim off the upper regions of the frame so it could be tucked into the grill. Too much effort for me.
It works well for me. Your mileage may vary.
See the pictures for an idea of what it looks like installed. The picture with the box (generator) in front of the truck shows the grid at its shortest. The genset is about 1 foot from the front bumper and both orange lights on the truck's monitor are on at that distance. The picture of the park has the grid at its longest. Since I'm not using it as a backup aid, and I won't use it as an aid while driving on the road, I use the short setting.
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