New Jayco potential purchase for the Ranger to pull, Advice needed!!

[Big Blue]

84 gal fresh water tank on the bigger trailer - wonder what that weighs. Then the smaller one has 20 gal ? the one I bought has 30 gal , 40 or 50 would have been nice.

Since the OP made his decision and this thread jumped to tank size. Depending on what you are going to do with the trailer, tank size may not be an issue. If you are using campgrounds most have hook up for fresh water. This means fresh water tank size means nothing. Many places also have sites with full hookups or at least a dump station to use on leaving. So, unless you are staying more than a long weekend or showering black or grey tank size is not a huge issue either. Going off-grid or using unimproved sites such as BLM and some state and national parks is when tank sizes become a bigger issue.

P.S. Showers and tubs will fill your grey tank in a hurry.

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[JimG_AZ]

awesome, after doing some more research we are going to go with the 184, for the reasons you mentioned. Smaller, lighter and suits our needs for 3-5 day trips throughout the summer. Going to get the Redarc tow package and the built in sway control. All that said, after talking to the wife we are going to wait until the spring. Gives us time to save more and time for me to get all the add one for the truck. We’re getting from a dealer in Idaho so all said and done it’s going to take 20ish days to get here and the brake people can’t even get me in for 3 weeks. I’ll go to the towing section when time gets closer, thanks again for all the advice. I love this forum.

Are you getting the trailer in the spring or in 3 weeks? If you are waiting until spring, I would check the used market out before ordering a new one. Maybe you will get lucky and find what you want and save thousands. With either a used or new trailer, you need to check it thoroughly. I would start getting educated on what to look for in a pre-delivery inspection (PDI). The RV manufactures had major employment issues during Covid and the Great Resignation period. This resulted in them selling a bunch of crap that needed all sorts of warranty repairs. I do not follow the industry, so I am not sure how well they recovered. What I do know that is that those buyers who trusted the dealers to repair the units under warranty got screwed waiting many months for parts to come in. This would lead to a stressful situation. So, if you are ordering the unit from a dealer, I would want the following clauses added to the contract:
1. Any issues found in the PDI will be repaired by the dealer before the customer accepts delivery.
2. If the unit fails PDI, the customer can void the deal and get a full refund of the deposit.

If they refuse, ask why.

 

[Strobes]

Since the OP made his decision and this thread jumped to tank size. Depending on what you are going to do with the trailer, tank size may not be an issue. If you are using campgrounds most have hook up for fresh water. This means fresh water tank size means nothing. Many places also have sites with full hookups or at least a dump station to use on leaving. So, unless you are staying more than a long weekend or showering black or grey tank size is not a huge issue either. Going off-grid or using unimproved sites such as BLM and some state and national parks is when tank sizes become a bigger issue.

P.S. Showers and tubs will fill your grey tank in a hurry.

Totally get it, I’d say most of this things use will be 3 nights, 20-50 miles from home at campgrounds or even on friends property next to their lake houses. And 2 or 3 nights of me alone on fishing trips when I wanna get out of town and not have to airbnb. The bigger one could still be an option but after the last 48 hours we just decided to wait till the end of winter to do it. I have the sales guy calling me back then and hope to get it delivered before the end of April 24. So I have time to think about all the options and learn more about towing, etc. The extra tanks would be nice, but the places we would go, water will be available. In Alaska there is only so many places you can drive to, we don’t have a whole lot of off-roading or backcountry that doesn’t include using a float plane to get there.

 

[Strobes]

Are you getting the trailer in the spring or in 3 weeks? If you are waiting until spring, I would check the used market out before ordering a new one. Maybe you will get lucky and find what you want and save thousands. With either a used or new trailer, you need to check it thoroughly. I would start getting educated on what to look for in a pre-delivery inspection (PDI). The RV manufactures had major employment issues during Covid and the Great Resignation period. This resulted in them selling a bunch of crap that needed all sorts of warranty repairs. I do not follow the industry, so I am not sure how well they recovered. What I do know that is that those buyers who trusted the dealers to repair the units under warranty got screwed waiting many months for parts to come in. This would lead to a stressful situation. So, if you are ordering the unit from a dealer, I would want the following clauses added to the contract:
1. Any issues found in the PDI will be repaired by the dealer before the customer accepts delivery.
2. If the unit fails PDI, the customer can void the deal and get a full refund of the deposit.

If they refuse, ask why.

We were going to get one delivered in 3 weeks but we decided to hold off until spring. Bookmarking this comment. Great advice, it’s in Meridian Idaho where we’re considering but my dad lives like 50 miles away so I’ll be making sure to have him go down there and inspect it before I sign the loan docs. Smart move.

 

[hami6718]

Here is the towing hookups on the back.

Strobes, the Redarc unit that Ford recommends is good. I had that one put in and got them to install the controller in place of one of the 12v power plugs. Here's a picture of the install.

It is easy to see and to reach and looks nice, and who needs two 12v plugs on the dash? Not me. I tow a 3500# camper so I have no experience to offer for the and can hardly feel it behind the Ranger.

 

[Grumpaw]

We were going to get one delivered in 3 weeks but we decided to hold off until spring. Bookmarking this comment. Great advice, it’s in Meridian Idaho where we’re considering but my dad lives like 50 miles away so I’ll be making sure to have him go down there and inspect it before I sign the loan docs. Smart move.

I'm gonna give you a bit of advice....
If you are looking to buy a new rig from a dealer....NEVER pay sticker or advertised price. There is a huge markup and you can get it for a lot less. Go in and offer at least 25% less than the asking price, and negotiate....you can usually get it for 12-15% less.
Be ready to "walk away" if they refuse to talk with you....lots of other places willing to sell.
Beware of the warranties on new units...many dealers will refuse to honor warranties unless you bought the rig from them....this is especially true of the "Big Box" dealers. Repairs may get done, and you pay for them, and try to get reimbursed from the manufacturer.
Don't get sucked in by the "extended warranty"....many require you to have the rig inspected yearly for the warranty to stay in effect, and you pay for it. The biggest complaint from owners of new rigs are "body and construction" problems. so be ready to DIY. You MUST be a DIY'r to own a rig, and be prepared to fix problems at home and on the road.
It is crazy, but if you have a minor problem the dealer may not be able to get to you for weeks/months. Not like car dealers, rv dealers and repair facilities are few and far between.
The dealer may or may not do a comprehensive PDI, some just give it a quick inspection, and some will check everything out properly, but you may have to pay for it..
Looking at a used rig....from a dealer....everything I posted above times 2. Warranties will be hit and miss, and usually only for 30 days. But, you can get some good deals on a lightly used rig....they are harder for the dealer to move than a new rig....The "newness" is what most people want.
Buying from a private owner...everything will be on you...no warranty.
When you buy a brand new rig, once you sign the papers, it will lose somewhere around 20% of it's value, before you even drive or pull it off the lot...knowing this will give you some insight into pricing a used rig.
And, finally, if you are a total newbie buying a first rig, if you know someone who is an rv owner with experience, as him/her to help you in checking a rig out, new or used. If experienced they will know what to look for in the way of fixes that need to be done, and how to check proper functioning of equipment.
I

 

[mtbikernate]

You MUST be a DIY'r to own a rig, and be prepared to fix problems at home and on the road.
It is crazy, but if you have a minor problem the dealer may not be able to get to you for weeks/months. Not like car dealers, rv dealers and repair facilities are few and far between.

This is absolute truth.

Even with my little squaredrop camper, DIY is the absolute rule. For a camper like this, customization of the interior is a big part of owning one. I bought mine with a much more basic set of options and I've changed it up a LOT since I bought it almost 7yrs ago.

I was looking for someplace to do a chassis, brake, and hub inspection and service on my trailer and ended up DIYing the job because of the 2 independent RV service shops in my area, neither did any of these kinds of jobs (and the RV dealers in my area won't touch a trailer like mine). They exclusively dealt in bodywork/sealing and interior/appliance work. They didn't do engines for self-contained RVs. They didn't do towing/chassis work on travel trailers. I got new tires this year, and I pulled the wheels off, put the trailer on blocks, and took the wheels to the tire shop.

I have good friends who are experienced RVers. They have a 5th wheel and they lived out of it for a couple years during the pandemic while their home was being built (with an RV pad and hookups on property, also). When they need major service on theirs, they usually drag it somewhere states away. I had friends with a Class A for awhile (I don't think they still have it) and they'd go to the manufacturer in Northern Indiana to have it worked on. So yeah, for small jobs, you're not going to be doing that kind of road trip.

 

[ControlNode]

P.S. Showers and tubs will fill your grey tank in a hurry.

Or take "Navy/Marine shower" like my grandfather made us do at his house: Water on, get wet, water off, soap up, water on, rinse, water off. <10 minutes from closing the door on the way in to opening it to exit.

 

[mtbikernate]

Or take "Navy/Marine shower" like my grandfather made us do at his house: Water on, get wet, water off, soap up, water on, rinse, water off. <10 minutes from closing the door on the way in to opening it to exit.

With this being the "modern" version of that:

EcoShower Collection – Geyser Systems

 

[RK Racing]

1) you will absolutely need a brake controller installed in the pick up….. it’s no big deal couple hundred bucks and it’s done. 2) if you buy the smaller trailer, you will absolutely regret it after a week or two, buy the bigger one.

 

[JCMAC]

As has been repeated several times your Ranger with the trailer tow package will tow easily either trailer. To skip to points not already mentioned I tow a larger trailer the Jayco 224BH easily with my Ranger. The first point is that the rear tire pressure needs to be increased from the recommended 30 psi to around 38 psi to decrease wind induced sway, leave the front tires at 30. The second is to limit your speed while towing to 65mph or less as trailer sway increases with speed. You will also notice that fuel consumption also increases quickly with road speed. Better fuel economy typically occurs around 55mph. Hope that helps

 

[YaBoiNewton]

Hey guys, me and the wife are considering buying a Jayco 212 QBW or 184BS.

The 184 is smaller 21.7 ft compared to 25.8, both are under 7,500. Questions I have from you armchair and real experts is this:
1. Is the 212 legit too big to realistically pull with the Ranger vs the 184?
It is much nicer so that’s the route we want to go, but it is bigger so I need to know if the Ranger is fully capable of pulling this regularly during the summer/fall months.

2. Also. I have a 2020 XLT with the towing package. They asked over the phone if I have an integrated brake controller? I have the tow package, is that all I need? Does that assume my rig has the integrated break controller?

Another difference in these jayco models is that the 184 is single axle and the 212 is a double axle. I’m going to get a W/D hitch either way, are these tongue weights okay for the Ranger? Yes I’m going to look in the manual and find out more (for those who will recommend it, talking to you Colorado guy) but any and all advice or things I should know are appreciated. I’m green to towing and want to make sure I’m doing this right before such a large investment in toys.

Stats on these model

Thank you for helping.
Andrew

The 212

The 184:

So no one follows this guideline based on the other replies here, but technically both of these trailers are too big. According to the spec the tow rig should have a max frontal area of 55 sqft, but you're looking at a minimum 66 sqft if you get the 184. Yes, you can move both of these trailers and probably travel at highway speeds without a problem, but at this size strong winds could make for a bad time. Travel is inherently more risky if the trailer is significantly larger than the tow vehicle, even if weights are within spec.

I'd look for something with smaller exterior dimensions or get a full size tow vehicle if a big camper is a must-have. Everyone I've seen towing a camper this size with a mid-size vehicle eventually upgrades to a half-ton.

 

[Grumpaw]

So no one follows this guideline based on the other replies here, but technically both of these trailers are too big. According to the spec the tow rig should have a max frontal area of 55 sqft, but you're looking at a minimum 66 sqft if you get the 184. Yes, you can move both of these trailers and probably travel at highway speeds without a problem, but at this size strong winds could make for a bad time. Travel is inherently more risky if the trailer is significantly larger than the tow vehicle, even if weights are within spec.

I'd look for something with smaller exterior dimensions or get a full size tow vehicle if a big camper is a must-have. Everyone I've seen towing a camper this size with a mid-size vehicle eventually upgrades to a half-ton.

For some reason this "55 sq ft" seems to be the gospel from on high.
Truth is that almost ANY regular travel trailer with an 8 ft width will be over the magical "55 sq ft".
If you go over the 55 sq ft what do you think wil happen.....nothing xcept maybe a loss of a bit more mpg.....which you already will be getting 10-12 mpg anyway.
Your Ranger will not break down, refuse to move, or throw a tantrum. And, guess what...your Ranger may be smart, but not smart enough to figure out your 10 sq ft over the magic "55".

 

[mtbikernate]

So no one follows this guideline based on the other replies here, but technically both of these trailers are too big. According to the spec the tow rig should have a max frontal area of 55 sqft, but you're looking at a minimum 66 sqft if you get the 184. Yes, you can move both of these trailers and probably travel at highway speeds without a problem, but at this size strong winds could make for a bad time. Travel is inherently more risky if the trailer is significantly larger than the tow vehicle, even if weights are within spec.

I'd look for something with smaller exterior dimensions or get a full size tow vehicle if a big camper is a must-have. Everyone I've seen towing a camper this size with a mid-size vehicle eventually upgrades to a half-ton.

From what I've been able to figure, frontal area is a spec that is less of an issue under towing conditions OP mentions here:

Totally get it, I’d say most of this things use will be 3 nights, 20-50 miles from home at campgrounds or even on friends property next to their lake houses. And 2 or 3 nights of me alone on fishing trips when I wanna get out of town and not have to airbnb. The bigger one could still be an option but after the last 48 hours we just decided to wait till the end of winter to do it. I have the sales guy calling me back then and hope to get it delivered before the end of April 24. So I have time to think about all the options and learn more about towing, etc. The extra tanks would be nice, but the places we would go, water will be available. In Alaska there is only so many places you can drive to, we don’t have a whole lot of off-roading or backcountry that doesn’t include using a float plane to get there.

because it relates to how much wind resistance the trailer has when being pulled. If planned use involves long trips then that is something that I'm going to factor into the equation more heavily. Especially if traveling somewhere remote with big distances between fuel-ups, into the mountains where other factors pile on, and so on. For short drives fairly close to home? Meh.

Note the statement about "exceeding these requirements will affect vehicle performance". I'd say that statement qualifies it as a "soft" specification, and not a hard safety rule.

One thing I've not found a clear answer to is precisely how to calculate a trailer's frontal area. An RV dealer once tried to tell me that the more curved and "aero" shape of the front of a trailer makes it less of a factor. I have my doubts about that (because the shape of the back of the trailer plays a big role in aerodynamics, too), but the manufacturers are pretty mum about all this. Also a factor when comparing trailers that might be lifted a bit. I've seen a variety of methods quoted for how to calculate a trailer's frontal area - almost all of them being discussed in various forums. Just about nowhere is it conclusively stated by a manufacturer of a trailer OR a tow vehicle, and that reinforces my thoughts of it being a "soft" specification.

 

[YaBoiNewton]

For some reason this "55 sq ft" seems to be the gospel from on high.
Truth is that almost ANY regular travel trailer with an 8 ft width will be over the magical "55 sq ft".
If you go over the 55 sq ft what do you think wil happen.....nothing xcept maybe a loss of a bit more mpg.....which you already will be getting 10-12 mpg anyway.
Your Ranger will not break down, refuse to move, or throw a tantrum. And, guess what...your Ranger may be smart, but not smart enough to figure out your 10 sq ft over the magic "55".

Read the post man. I literally said the truck would pull both trailers without a problem. My point is that it exceeds the Ford spec and invites more risk to traveling. This guy is in the PNW and new to towing. Not a great scenario for hauling a big trailer with a small truck.

Do whatever you want man. I'm just pointing out that it's more complicated than tongue weight and length.

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