Need help with losing weight and being more wind resistant

13 Second Ranger

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So I am approaching the 12's and need every trick I can. Performance wise it's all there for what is needed. I'm on stock aluminum wheels now and took off the running boards. Wasn't sure if the original wind deflector under the bumper or anything like that would benefit that extra little bit. This is for Friday night.
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So I am approaching the 12's and need every trick I can. Performance wise it's all there for what is needed. I'm on stock aluminum wheels now and took off the running boards. Wasn't sure if the original wind deflector under the bumper or anything like that would benefit that extra little bit. This is for Friday night.
Have you removed the tailgate for your previous runs?
 

Ace Holliday

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So I am approaching the 12's and need every trick I can. Performance wise it's all there for what is needed. I'm on stock aluminum wheels now and took off the running boards. Wasn't sure if the original wind deflector under the bumper or anything like that would benefit that extra little bit. This is for Friday night.
Take the back seat(s) out. Seat belts, sun visors, passenger seat. It all adds up.
 
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13 Second Ranger

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I didn't. I did take it off to weigh it and it was only like 35 lbs. Definitely will yank it off if I'm super close....
 
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13 Second Ranger

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Take the back seat(s) out. Seat belts, sun visors, passenger seat. It all adds up.
I'm bringing a set of wrenches just in case. I did weigh the seats when I had them out to dynomat the floors and they were surely on the list of first weight savings...
 


HoosierT

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I didn't. I did take it off to weigh it and it was only like 35 lbs. Definitely will yank it off if I'm super close....
I was thinking it might help with drag more than weight.
 

NvrFinished

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Fold in the mirrors and air up the front tires to the max for less rolling resistance.
 

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I'm running a vinyl bed cover which has an aluminum frame so with that down I'm not sure how much removing both would benefit?
I got curious a bit ago if putting the tailgate down on a truck would improve MPG. From what I read it doesn't and actually makes it worse and increases drag. Even having a bed cover according to Consumer Reports resulted in lower MPG than not having one with the tailgate up. Now I don't know if that still applies when trying to drive at high speed drag race style like you are doing but seems it would.

Here are a few sources I ran across. They are not specfic to the Ranger but still interesting:

https://www.hotcars.com/supercharged-f-150-tailgate-up-down/

https://www.autoblog.com/2014/08/26/ford-f-150-tailgate-up-down-mpg-video/

https://www.consumerreports.org/cro/news/2013/08/pickup-truck-tailgates-and-fuel-economy/index.htm

http://xplrcreate.com/2019/08/08/aerodynamics-of-tailgate-closed-vs-open/

Here is a quote from the first article I linked:

So what gives? Well, we get a pretty good explanation of why driving with the tailgate up is the fastest courtesy of Engineering Explained. With the tailgate up, a pocket of air is bubbled behind the cab that prevents air moving over the cab from striking the lifted tailgate, reducing overall drag. With the tailgate down or a cover on, that bubble doesn’t exist and the cab produces a vortex of air that increases drag.
 
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Langwilliams

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if you're running 2 wd you could pick up either 2 used stock rims or get 2 spare wheels an run skinnier lighter tires up front. I don't know the rim width so I don't know if a 195 wide tire or similar would work. if you have 4x4 you could get them to equal the same overall diameter. When I had a old jeep guys would replace the axles with stronger ones an some ran a 4.10 an 4.11 at the same time with no problems so there's a tiny margin of variance that is acceptable.

When I ran my 5.0 at the track guys would always remove the spare tire an jack an go there on half a tank of gas. On those cars there were no electrical connections on the passenger seat so some would remove it before going.
 

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For every 100 pounds of weight you can drop, you'll pick up about 1/10 of a second in the 1320.

Go to the track with at most a 1/2 a tank of fuel. As other have stated, pull the rear seat, tailgate, spare tire, jack and associated tools, tow hitch etc. basically Anything that weighs more than 10 pounds and can be removed, pull it out.

Pull the deflector out from behind the grill. Bring an ice chest filled with ice and some water as well as a few towels. Soak the towels in ice water and place them on top of the intercooler as you're working up the staging lines. Pull the towels just before your run. This will drop the intake charge considerably.

You can also use blue painter's tape along the hood seams, over the cowl to the windshield, and around the mirrors with them folded in to reduce drag. People may laugh at you, but I have seen this trick shave off 2/10ths of a second.
 

Lunchbox88

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For every 100 pounds of weight you can drop, you'll pick up about 1/10 of a second in the 1320.

Go to the track with at most a 1/2 a tank of fuel. As other have stated, pull the rear seat, tailgate, spare tire, jack and associated tools, tow hitch etc. basically Anything that weighs more than 10 pounds and can be removed, pull it out.

Pull the deflector out from behind the grill. Bring an ice chest filled with ice and some water as well as a few towels. Soak the towels in ice water and place them on top of the intercooler as you're working up the staging lines. Pull the towels just before your run. This will drop the intake charge considerably.

You can also use blue painter's tape along the hood seams, over the cowl to the windshield, and around the mirrors with them folded in to reduce drag. People may laugh at you, but I have seen this trick shave off 2/10ths of a second.
This, plus the passenger seat. Also maybe shoot for 1/4 tank of gas and bring a jug with you.
Lighter wheels and tires will help if you want to go all out.
 
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13 Second Ranger

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if you're running 2 wd you could pick up either 2 used stock rims or get 2 spare wheels an run skinnier lighter tires up front. I don't know the rim width so I don't know if a 195 wide tire or similar would work. if you have 4x4 you could get them to equal the same overall diameter. When I had a old jeep guys would replace the axles with stronger ones an some ran a 4.10 an 4.11 at the same time with no problems so there's a tiny margin of variance that is acceptable.

When I ran my 5.0 at the track guys would always remove the spare tire an jack an go there on half a tank of gas. On those cars there were no electrical connections on the passenger seat so some would remove it before going.
I'm using stock front wheels for the track now. I will be at 1/2 tank of gas as well.
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