Need help. Fan clutch problem on 2019 Ranger

[Reacher19]

Hey all,
I have a 2019 ranger with a locked in fan clutch. I also found the wiring harness for the fan clutch all chewed up along with its tube. I was able to replace the wires together and put a makeshift tube back in place after I replaced the fan clutch. There is no change and my fan still runs with the motor after it's fully warmed up. On starts and acceleration it sounds like a garbage truck coming down the street. Being the fan clutch is now new how can I check if the electronic sensor is working for it? I'm not a mechanic so I'm completely lost on what to do next. I also discovered that if I have the car in park and rev the motor I hear a zapping sound coming from the area where the other end of the sensor wires are located. I have no idea if this is even part of the same problem. I'm not sure what to do here, any advice would be appreciated.

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[ctechbob]

I would start by having a very close look at the terminal on the fan and on the wires. It sounds like it might have damaged a pin when it pulled apart.

Also double-check your splices and wire color matching.

After that, you would probably need a scanner with live data to show if the fan is being commanded on for some reason (such as being stuck in a limp-home mode).

If there is an upside, there are 2. The fan is stuck on, not off, so you shouldn't have to worry about overheating. And it isn't a super expensive part if it is damaged. Not that I condone the parts cannon method, but replacing the clutch shouldn't be a huge deal should it be damaged.

--Edit--
Didn't read completely and noticed you've already replaced the clutch.

Motorcraft part?

 

[airline tech]

The new tube (hose) should come with a new fan clutch.
You most likely have wire harness damage still present and it’s shorting out the circuit.
You also most likely have fault codes locked into the PCM, which will keep the truck in limp mode.
clear the codes first, then reevaluate if the clutch fan is working correctly.

 

[Reacher19]

The clutch fan that we installed came from a 2020 ranger with low miles. Didn't have the tube with it so I made one. I will check the harness today and see if I can find someone with a scanner to check if there are any codes. But there hasn't been a CEL on at all, could there still be codes in the system that would stop this from working? Do they sell these wiring harnesses in case that's my issue?
Thanks again for your help. I really appreciate it

 

[airline tech]

Most likely you have broken wire strands in the harness or damaged pins on the connector.
My hunch is if damaged wire its going to be within 12 inches of the connector. (approx) as it will be a strained harness damage (pulled)

The only way to truly find it, is doing some wiring checks, between the PCM Connector and the Fan Clutch Connector, but this is a common failure point, broken hose and damaged wiring near the fan clutch.

I suspect damaged wire on Pin #2 or Pin #5 by your description.
Speed Control or Fan Speed Sence

Plus, you want to check Fuse 12 (engine bay fuse box), this fuse powers the Fan Clutch and other items.

Yes this can possibly be coded without a (check eng light)


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C1048

​ Connector: C1048​ Description​ COOLING FAN MOTOR​ Color​ ​ Harness​ 12C508​ Base Part #​ part# N/A​ Service Pigtail​ See Below​
​
Open In New Tab Zoom/Print​	​ Pin​ Circuit​ Gauge​ Circuit Function​ Qualifier​ 1​ CBK03 (GY)​ 16​ FUSE - 12 OR CIRCUIT BREAKER (VPWR 3)​ ​ 2​ VEC03 (WH-BU)​ 20​ CTRL MOD. - COOLING FAN CONTROL VARIABLE (FC-V)​ ​ 3​ LE135 (GY-VT)​ 20​ CTRL MOD. - POWERTRAIN # CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR (CKP) +​ ​ 4​ RE429 (GY-OG)​ 20​ CTRL MOD. - POWERTRAIN # VARIABLE RELUCTANCE SENSOR (VRSRTN) (CAMSHAFT POSITION)​ ​ 5​ VEC10 (GY-YE)​ 20​ SENSOR - FAN SPEED (FSS)​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ​

Available Pigtail Kits
Pigtail Kit Part Number WPT-1504 Open In New Tab Zoom/Print	Service Part Number: HU2Z-14S411-LA Gauge: 18 Pin material: Silver Cavities: 5 Vehicle Uses​ Actuator - Turbocharger Waste Gate Module - NOX Sensor Solenoid - EGR Cooler Bypass Valve - EGR

 

[NotBudule]

Can you get the harness off the same Ranger you got the fan clutch ?

 

[airline tech]

Some quick checks, just for power, this won't check for shorts to Voltage or Ground

But disconnect the Fan Clutch connector - KOEO (Key On-Engine Off)

Check for Voltage on Pin #1 = Current Batt Voltage to Ground
Pin #5 = Current Batt Voltage to Ground

 

[MonteSuet26]

Hey everyone, I've always used this forum and found many helpful repairs for my truck but now I'm stumped and need some help. I've read multiple threads for solutions for how to replace the rubber tube holding the fan clutch sensor harness and I've seen a few wires that were chewed just like mine. The wire isn't broken completely but it is a bit frayed. I can't seem to find a part number for this wire harness if anyone can help me with it. Currently my truck is sitting in a parking lot waiting for a tow back to my place somewhere around midnight. I need to check the fan clutch fuse, I'll do that when I can. Also I got a P0034 code, I know it has to be the wire.

Can anyone help my with a wire harness part number? I can find it anywhere (it could be on the harness itself but I don't have my truck at the moment)

 

[RangerBill]

See this post:

https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/thre...tch-problem-on-2019-ranger.28330/#post-653474

 

[RangerBill]

From the shop manual:

Gasoline Engines PCED
P0034 - Turbocharger/Supercharger Bypass Valve A Control Circuit Low

Description: ​	This DTC sets when the PCM detects a short to ground in the TCBY circuit.​
Possible Causes: ​	Damaged turbocharger bypass (TCBY) valve TCBY circuit short to ground Damaged harness connector Damaged harness
Diagnostic Aids: ​	Check the harness for intermittent concerns, incorrect connections, routing, alterations and damage due to contact with other components. ​

 

[RangerBill]

Here is the wiring diagram that shows the fan and the turbocharger bypass valve showing an electrical common connection, fed by fuse F12 in the battery junction box (BJB). F12 is likely blown by the bare wires shorted to ground or each other.

 

[airline tech]

Hey everyone, I've always used this forum and found many helpful repairs for my truck but now I'm stumped and need some help. I've read multiple threads for solutions for how to replace the rubber tube holding the fan clutch sensor harness and I've seen a few wires that were chewed just like mine. The wire isn't broken completely but it is a bit frayed. I can't seem to find a part number for this wire harness if anyone can help me with it. Currently my truck is sitting in a parking lot waiting for a tow back to my place somewhere around midnight. I need to check the fan clutch fuse, I'll do that when I can. Also I got a P0034 code, I know it has to be the wire.

Can anyone help my with a wire harness part number? I can find it anywhere (it could be on the harness itself but I don't have my truck at the moment)

Grr- I lost my whole post - In the middle of a thread (merge)

So here we go. Again

First - Fuse 12 is good, with no other codes other than the Turbo By-Pass

I need a favor, post which wire is damaged - Pin# or Color
I suspect it is Pin#1 (Grey Wire)

I am working on a possible (failure) point with this being the 2nd (single) code issue on this circuit.

Will the code clear? or is is locked in perm.
It should clear as long as the wiring (damaged) is not touching any metal or neighboring wire (short together)

If will not clear - Try

So, for a (TEST) and interim repair, open up the harness a just (splice) in a piece of wire, make the circuit complete (damaged area)

If after this and (will not clear)

Pull the connector off of the (Turbo By-Pass) and measure voltage on Pin#1, should be 12 volts
If you have 12 Volts, it is possible that the Turbo - By-Pass shorted out with the wire damage.
Pin#1 = Grey Wire. But I would ensure all wiring is repaired first (before replacing the valve)

If you do not have 12 Volts, then I suspect the Splice (S152) overheated and burned, and now the circuit (power) feed to the By-Pass has a voltage drop and underpowered.

By-Pass Valve (Location)

So now its decision time - since you only have (By-Pass) valve code, this possibly could mean that the Clutch Fan (Did Not Short) out and you can possibly get by with only a (Connector - Wire Repair) and the Hose (Repair)
FYI: It is good practice to stagger the splices along the harness, vs having them bunched together (in the harness)
A dealer will replace the whole assembly (never just repair) the hose assembly as it comes as an assembly.
If it were me, I would replace the Clutch Fan and Repair the Connector Wiring

The wiring (they will replace) the connector and (repair)

Now let's address the Splice (S152)

This is only (if needed) for a GENERAL location of S152 - Its located somewhere here and if damaged will exhibit a (looks melted) look.
Again - I am pointing out a possible (highly likely) failure spot for this circuit and the failure code you have, since Fuse 12 did not blow, this is the first stop for the circuit short.

Pinpoint - Damaged (S152) by the Grey Wire (Locate)

 

[RangerBill]

Grr- I lost my whole post - In the middle of a thread (merge)

So here we go. Again

First - Fuse 12 is good, with no other codes other than the Turbo By-Pass

I need a favor, post which wire is damaged - Pin# or Color
I suspect it is Pin#1 (Grey Wire)

I am working on a possible (failure) point with this being the 2nd (single) code issue on this circuit.

Will the code clear? or is is locked in perm.
It should clear as long as the wiring (damaged) is not touching any metal or neighboring wire (short together)

If will not clear - Try

So, for a (TEST) and interim repair, open up the harness a just (splice) in a piece of wire, make the circuit complete (damaged area)

If after this and (will not clear)

Pull the connector off of the (Turbo By-Pass) and measure voltage on Pin#1, should be 12 volts
If you have 12 Volts, it is possible that the Turbo - By-Pass shorted out with the wire damage.
Pin#1 = Grey Wire. But I would ensure all wiring is repaired first (before replacing the valve)

If you do not have 12 Volts, then I suspect the Splice (S152) overheated and burned, and now the circuit (power) feed to the By-Pass has a voltage drop and underpowered.

By-Pass Valve (Location)

So now its decision time - since you only have (By-Pass) valve code, this possibly could mean that the Clutch Fan (Did Not Short) out and you can possibly get by with only a (Connector - Wire Repair) and the Hose (Repair)
FYI: It is good practice to stagger the splices along the harness, vs having them bunched together (in the harness)
A dealer will replace the whole assembly (never just repair) the hose assembly as it comes as an assembly.
If it were me, I would replace the Clutch Fan and Repair the Connector Wiring

The wiring (they will replace) the connector and (repair)

Now let's address the Splice (S152)

This is only (if needed) for a GENERAL location of S152 - Its located somewhere here and if damaged will exhibit a (looks melted) look.
Again - I am pointing out a possible (highly likely) failure spot for this circuit and the failure code you have, since Fuse 12 did not blow, this is the first stop for the circuit short.

Pinpoint - Damaged (S152) by the Grey Wire (Locate)

I suspect that the OP has more DTC codes then the P0034 and that F12 is blown because of the damaged wiring to the fan clutch. The 15 amp fuse should blow before any damage to the splice in the wiring harness occurs.

 

[My12SecRanger]

I have a brand-new oem hose you if you still need one

 

[airline tech]

I have a brand-new oem hose you if you still need one

Ok so they do offer them (separate part) - Part #? for the masses please or was this removed from new clutch.

Question - For the single code faults (after wire harness damage) Clutch Fan am I hitting a possible location of fault with the S152 - In your Tech opinion, for me it makes the most logical sense

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