Mishimoto catch can question

TORQUERULES

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My wife got me one of your catch can kits for Christmas. I want to put a drain petcock in the bottom of the can. What size is the plug in the bottom of the can (I haven't gotten the kit in my hands yet, have to wait until Christmas LOL)? Is it 3/8" pipe or 1/2" pipe? Thanks.
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That is a superb idea man! Call Mishimoto, they will tell you. I've actually talk to them about the plug because I was having trouble breaking the seal on the can to dump when I first installed it. The answer was a smear of oil on the threads and gasket. I could have sworn they told me it is a 10mm allen/torx head....I don't remember. As far as the threads go on the plug, didn't ask about that. Let us know how that goes please.....
 
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That is a superb idea man! Call Mishimoto, they will tell you. I've actually talk to them about the plug because I was having trouble breaking the seal on the can to dump when I first installed it. The answer was a smear of oil on the threads and gasket. I could have sworn they told me it is a 10mm allen/torx head....I don't remember. As far as the threads go on the plug, didn't ask about that. Let us know how that goes please.....
I will. I might have to wait until I get my hands on it to check myself and then order one before I install. I found nice small stainless ones on Amazon that fit a 5/16" hose on the end.
 

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I will. I might have to wait until I get my hands on it to check myself and then order one before I install. I found nice small stainless ones on Amazon that fit a 5/16" hose on the end.
Since I have one already installed I will check this out too. I love to do mods on my Ranger, especially a mod that makes it easier for me to empty that damn thing. I see you live in WV, it definitely gets cold there so figure on emptying that can every fill up during the winter. I live in Colorado and run 91 octane. Mine is 1/2 to 3/4 full when it is below freezing every time I fill up. When it warms up approximately 1/2 of the vapor is captured comparatively . Keep an eye on that till you get a handle on it. It surprised me at first. Also, when/if you unscrew that can, ALWAYS expect it to be full or you will spill some. Hopefully my new Livernois tuner will ship this week!! I've been patient for weeks and I'm ready to get my hands on it....lol
 
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Since I have one already installed I will check this out too. I love to do mods on my Ranger, especially a mod that makes it easier for me to empty that damn thing. I see you live in WV, it definitely gets cold there so figure on emptying that can every fill up during the winter. I live in Colorado and run 91 octane. Mine is 1/2 to 3/4 full when it is below freezing every time I fill up. When it warms up approximately 1/2 of the vapor is captured comparatively . Keep an eye on that till you get a handle on it. It surprised me at first. Also, when/if you unscrew that can, ALWAYS expect it to be full or you will spill some. Hopefully my new Livernois tuner will ship this week!! I've been patient for weeks and I'm ready to get my hands on it....lol
I hear you on winter empties. My Mazdaspeed 3 gets emptied every week when it is cold just in case and if I drive it on a nice day and know it will freeze at night, I turn the petcock and empty any fluid just in case. I have it set up that I can just reach up though a hole I cut in the belly pan and turn the knob. It can be reached without jacking it by feel alone.
 


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I hear you on winter empties. My Mazdaspeed 3 gets emptied every week when it is cold just in case and if I drive it on a nice day and know it will freeze at night, I turn the petcock and empty any fluid just in case. I have it set up that I can just reach up though a hole I cut in the belly pan and turn the knob. It can be reached without jacking it by feel alone.
The area below where the mish can installs has plenty of room but you'll need a cup or jar to empty into that is fairly short I'm thinking. It depends on how long the petcock is. It's that compartment area just in front of the battery. I'll post a pic when I get a chance.
 
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The area below where the mish can installs has plenty of room but you'll need a cup or jar to empty into that is fairly short I'm thinking. It depends on how long the petcock is. It's that compartment area just in front of the battery. I'll post a pic when I get a chance.
I was going to run a hose all the way down and out the back of the skidplate somewhere that was hidden and let it drain out that way. It would make it a slow drain, but would let me not have to struggle with something to catch it in under the hood in that tight space.
 

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My wife got me one of your catch can kits for Christmas. I want to put a drain petcock in the bottom of the can. What size is the plug in the bottom of the can (I haven't gotten the kit in my hands yet, have to wait until Christmas LOL)? Is it 3/8" pipe or 1/2" pipe? Thanks.
Hey Matt,

The port in the bottom of the can is a 3/8" NPT and would use a 3/8" barb and hose. We also sell a full drain kit with the valve, hose barb, line, and clamps here: https://www.mishimoto.com/compact-baffled-oil-catch-can-petcock-drain-kit.html


Feel free to let us know if you have any other questions! The fastest way to get ahold of us is by calling our customer service team at 1-877-GOMISHI

Thanks!
-Steve
 
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I was going to run a hose all the way down and out the back of the skidplate somewhere that was hidden and let it drain out that way. It would make it a slow drain, but would let me not have to struggle with something to catch it in under the hood in that tight space.
If the can drains slow due to lack of venting, add a vent on the intake return line near the top of the can to allow for faster drain. Use a T fitting and simply cap the top of the T with a vacuum cap. Remove cap and then open the drain... You probably won't even need to use a hose clamp on the cap as I don't think that there is a lot of positive pressure on that, except maybe when in boost.

To test if the a vent is needed, simply remove the Can Out hose that goes back to the intake before emptying the can via the drain line. If it flows faster the vent will help.

Best of Luck

Tony
 

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Pretty easy to just unscrew that can and dump it. It's in a great spot to get at. I don't have any problem getting too it. Just make sure and smear a dab of oil around the threads and o-ring to make it easy to break the seal.
 

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Hey Matt,

The port in the bottom of the can is a 3/8" NPT and would use a 3/8" barb and hose. We also sell a full drain kit with the valve, hose barb, line, and clamps here: https://www.mishimoto.com/compact-baffled-oil-catch-can-petcock-drain-kit.html


Feel free to let us know if you have any other questions! The fastest way to get ahold of us is by calling our customer service team at 1-877-GOMISHI

Thanks!
-Steve
What's the difference between a 2-port and 3-port catch can?
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What's the difference between a 2-port and 3-port catch can?
Thanks in advance!
@Mishimoto Could you elaborate? I'm very interested to know, also.. do you sell check valves, or are check valves integrated with the catch can?

@Sign1941 This video is real helpful; (Shows a twin turbo V6 F150 with a 3-port oil catch can)



If I can be patient enough.. I might bother with cross referencing his video, and the ford ranger drawings on ford's part website. A few things that concern me in that video;
-No check valve from the air intake to the oil check cap.. meaning oil vapors can escape when you park(?) .. I have heard people finding out about fuel in their oil, often times shortly after installing an oil catch can. I heard ford ignores this, and says it's normal to have lots of fuel dilution in the oil...
-Misimoto's version doesn't have a pressure relief line on the oil check cap, from the video I believe the only difference is ford uses a pressure relief valve, I can't say how important it is.
-Multiple lines that are friction-fit, meaning they will likely get loose during adverse weather.. they should be using steel hose clamps on every line. This is a common complaint, about smelling fuel, or oil, because lines get loose.
 

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@Mishimoto Could you elaborate? I'm very interested to know, also.. do you sell check valves, or are check valves integrated with the catch can?

@Sign1941 This video is real helpful; (Shows a twin turbo V6 F150 with a 3-port oil catch can)



If I can be patient enough.. I might bother with cross referencing his video, and the ford ranger drawings on ford's part website. A few things that concern me in that video;
-No check valve from the air intake to the oil check cap.. meaning oil vapors can escape when you park(?) .. I have heard people finding out about fuel in their oil, often times shortly after installing an oil catch can. I heard ford ignores this, and says it's normal to have lots of fuel dilution in the oil...
-Misimoto's version doesn't have a pressure relief line on the oil check cap, from the video I believe the only difference is ford uses a pressure relief valve, I can't say how important it is.
-Multiple lines that are friction-fit, meaning they will likely get loose during adverse weather.. they should be using steel hose clamps on every line. This is a common complaint, about smelling fuel, or oil, because lines get loose.
I suppose since the short factory line that is removed to install the catch can doesn't have check valves, it might not seem essential. The argument I can see is keeping contaminants controlled, especially when it starts accumulating and preventing 'suck back.'

When introducing an extra vacuum source (like the UPR upgrade) you'd be changing some potential flow dynamics.

The video indicates there are other air ingress into the crankcase system which I presume equalizes pressure when the engine turns off. If I were the the type to attempt water crossings I'd be very interested in where that is.

His comment about low friction rings in Ecoboost motors makes me leery of wanting to run gas with a lot of ethanol or a lot of extra boost. Maybe that's why the owner of UPR suggested running heavier weight (?) Synthetic oil in performance versions of this engine.
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